Im taking the dive...im going to develop my own film

[zebulus]

Yup, im going to start developing my own film.

I already have the developing tank. I just need a dark bag, and then the developer, stop bath, and fixer.

[venchka]

You have stop bath-it's called tap water.

You need a decent, repeatable, thermometer with fairly large graduations.

Belay that. Buy some Diafine and 1 gallon liquid fix from Freestyle. 16 oz. bottle of Photo-Flo. Wes will coach you.

[zebulus]

Is the photo-flo totally necessary?

[Flea77]

Or, assuming you like Ilford, get some DD-X, Ilfostop, and Ilford Rapid Fix (along with photo-flo, I love the stuff) and get to work! All the development charts you need are on Ilford's website.

Allan

[wclavey]

Originally Posted by zebulus

Is the photo-flo totally necessary?

Well, the generic stuff works just as well, but with Houston water, you do need to rinse your negatives in it.

[venchka]

Originally Posted by zebulus

Is the photo-flo totally necessary?

Yes.

Distilled water and Photo-Flo (or equal-I guess. I never bothered with Brand X). Required final rinse. No argument. At $8.16/16 oz. @ the Co-op, why skimp? BTW, 16 oz. of Photo-Flo will rinse a zillion rolls of film. You may never need a second bottle.

Negatives are priceless. Chemistry is cheap.

When you get to the point where you are making perfect, spot free negatives with Diafine, we'll talk about real developers, thermometers and timers.

Sorry Allan. Tap water is stop bath. One step where you can save a few pennies.

[zebulus]

Cool, Cool.

So, diafine.

Am I limited to the type of film I can develop with it? Do I use it like regular developer?

[Flea77]

Originally Posted by venchka

Sorry Allan. Tap water is stop bath. One step where you can save a few pennies.

First, a few pennies is correct. Stop is cheap and goes a LONG way.

Next, a zillion years ago I was taught to always use stop. If I did not, my rear end would have teeth marks. My understanding was that water works, but takes time to get the developer off the negatives or dilute it to such that it stops working, whereas an actual stop bath was an instant chemical reaction that stopped the developer cold.

Add to that the fact that the instructions, and instructional videos, for my BTZS tubes specifically say to use stop bath, so I will continue, thank you very much

I could also save some money by selling my Zeiss glass and using a pinhole in a body cover, but I am not going to do that one either

Allan

[wclavey]

Actually, if you choose to use Diafine (...and even to stay with Dianfine, as those of us in the know have...) then you cannot use a stop solution before fixing... only water.

Wayne is right about the Photo-flo, generic or otherwisee. From your question, I could not tell if you were asking about "Photo-flo" (the brand) or "photo-flo" the stuff you rinse you negatives in that makes them drip dry clear... so I tried to answer both.

[zebulus]

Well what ive read about diafine, its supposed to make the developing process a whole lot easier, which is good.

I think diafine is definitely how I will start. So, the list of things to get are as follows:

Dark Bag
120mm reel
Diafine
Fixer
Photo-Flo

Sounds like a plan!

zebulus added 17 Minutes and 52 Seconds later...Double Post Merged Below

Another question:

I noticed diafine has a part A and part B? How does that work?

[wclavey]

Do you use SS reels or the Paterson type (walk it on)? I have a few of each if you want to borrow one to get started...

[zebulus]

I dont have a reel atm, I only have an old steel developing tank.

[KJ Smith]

You will need to find a Time / Temp chart for the film you are using.

Kodak Chart
Check this out
Everything you need to know

I use T-Max developer, liquid concentrate, 1:4
Liquid concentrate fix 1:3
Liquid concentrate Orbit bath
Liquid concentrate photo flo.

My process allows me to only mix up what I need, when I need it.

I have a 1/2 gallon bucket and a 16oz mixing cup, thats marked in ml.

I get the water in the bucket to temp. This time of year I have to use ice to cool the water 68-72f works fine.

The tank needs 270ml to do 6 sheets of film. I use 300ml because the math is easier and I like a little spillage room.

I pre-wash for 1-2 minutes with water from the bucket. Dump down the drain. If you are re-using the developer this help keeps it clean.

60 ml developer is mixed w/240 ml water from the bucket, dump or save.

I use water from the bucket as a stop bath. dump

75ml fix w/225ml from bucket for fix. dump or save.

Cap full Orbit in 300ml from bucket. dump or save

Wash, you can let the faucet do it, rig a hose, or get the really awesome Jobo wash tube. I just got a Jobo and love it.

I dump a capful of Photo flo in the water left in the bucket. To much Photo flo is worse than not enough. Soak 30 sec. or so and shake off excess.

Now how to dry ? People are gonna gripe, I fold up a couple of paper towels, set the reel on them and leave it overnight. the film will dry overnight.

Yes it will flatten out, No I do not squeegee. No it won't leave water marks if you photo flo right and shake off most the excess.

Thats what works for me.
Everything is stored as a concentrate, so it last longer. I store no working solutions. Unless I have a lot more film to do.

[zebulus]

Actually from what ive read, the beauty of diafine is it dosent care what the temperature is.

[KJ Smith]

Check with Wes, I have never used it.

But you have to start with at least a minimum time for even development.