35mm developing: My negatives are showing up way contrasty

[heespharm]

Hi new to the forum.. I met up with Lee last week great guy....

I've developed 120 film with no problems

So I've had problems lately with 35mm... I've been shooting neopan 400 pushed to 800 lately and my negatives always come out too contrasty.... i mean muddy and contrasty (like black and white)... I don't know why!!! I thought It was because the developer I was using but it turns out developing times are the same across the board for 35/120 film...

could it be my agitation??? i use 2-3 inversions every minute... (should I be swirling???)

Do you think my developing time is too long??? concentration is too high??

I currently use d76, rodinal and ilfosol-3 (which actually i don't use because everthing comes out crap from it)

please help

WHAT ARE THINGS THAT LEAD TO TOO CONTRASTY NEGATIVES??

[KJ Smith]

You are underexposing film, then over developing it.

That leads to contasty negatives.

Tell us what developer and what times and we can be of more help.





Did you say you meet Lee? and he is a nice guy??

Hmmmmmmm.

[heespharm]

neopan 400 pushed to 800 in d76 1:1 at 13 minutes

[KJ Smith]

post a pic if you can.

[KJ Smith]

Originally Posted by heespharm

neopan 400 pushed to 800 in d76 1:1 at 13 minutes

You should have gone 13.5 minutes @ 68f

The chart for small tanks says continuous first minute, 5 sec, every minute thereafter.

http://www.fujifilmusa.com/shared/bi...mDataGuide.pdf

Do you want to hear my buy Kodak and make it easy speech ????

[heespharm]

sure just bought 100' of trix 400

[KJ Smith]

Tri X is fine. But it is an older film.

TMax 400 would be best. Especially if you want to shoot it at 800.

It is the same, 400,800, makes no difference. No push involved.

[venchka]

Contrasty subjects lead to contrasty negatives. The reverse is true.

35mm & 120 film don't always require the same developing times. What do you put 120 film in?

Underexpose. Overdevelop. Increase contrast. That is at the heart of the Zone System. when you run across flat even light, no contrast, then you start expansion or increasing contrast.

The opposite is true as well. Overexpose. Underdevelop. Reduce contrast.

Why do people buy perfectly good ISO 400 film and try to make it work at 800 for no reason? Or is there a reason? Fuji Neopan 1600 might work better at 800. Tmax 3200 at 1000 works well in Xtol 1:3 for 19 minutes with continuous agitation.

Use some of the Tri-X for proper testing. Find your very own personal film speed and personal developing time. Here is a clue: The real speed of Tri-X when it was first invented was ASA 200. Another clue: Arista Premium 100 and 400 135-36 rolls of film from Freestyle are redranded Kodak Plus-X and Tri-X. About the same price as buying the real thing in bulk.

Lee's a nice guy. Welcome to the club!

[wclavey]

Originally Posted by venchka

Why do people buy perfectly good ISO 400 film and try to make it work at 800 for no reason? Or is there a reason? Fuji Neopan 1600 might work better at 800. Tmax 3200 at 1000 works well in Xtol 1:3 for 19 minutes with continuous agitation.

Actually, the cognoscenti all know that Diafine is the way to do that without the boost in contrast...

[venchka]

Perhaps. Does Diafine boost Neopan 400 all the way to 800? Or somewhere less than 1 full stop?

The folks on the bleeding edge of minimum exposure and maximum development are letting their Tri-X soak in Rodinal undisturbed for an hour or longer.

Rodinal 1:100 - Page 7 - Rangefinderforum.com

[KJ Smith]

Originally Posted by wclavey

Actually, the cognoscenti all know that Diafine is the way to do that without the boost in contrast...

Why not use TMax 400 rated at 800 and be done. No push needed.


I always thought Accufine was for pushing.

[KJ Smith]

Originally Posted by wclavey

Actually, the cognoscenti

What island nation are they from ?????....

[venchka]

LMAO! I love it!

Westley, you're the TMY-2 Guru. Have you tried 800?????????? In a real developer???????????????? Break out the Tmax developer & expose a few sheets at 800. Report back. Or does the 800 thing only apply to little film?

[venchka]

One stop is a baby push. Plus-X 2 stops to 400 in Xtol 1:3 is nice.

Here's some more in the Tri-X & Rodinal saga:

Originally Posted by merciful

I'm feeling Christmas-y, so here ya go. I'm not really so sure what was posted before, but here're a few of my favourite TX/high-ISO/Rodinal shots.

3200.

Rangefinderforum.com - View Single Post - Push it; push it real good.

[wclavey]

I always shoot my TMY-2 at 800 and develop normally, whether in Tmax Developer or Diafine...