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need help with a light leak

This is a discussion on need help with a light leak within the The Darkroom forums, part of the Photography Information category; my Koni Omega has a light leak on some pictures like below: Only seems to happen with 220 film in ...

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need help with a light leak - 03-03-2010, 12:07 PM


my Koni Omega has a light leak on some pictures like below:



Only seems to happen with 220 film in a 220 back, it's always a reddish color, and it bleeds into the border, consistently on the same place (about vertically and halfway between the midpoint and right edge of the photo).

Is this a back issue, or perhaps dark slide slot related? I read that reddish leaks means the leak is coming or bouncing from the rear due to the color layers?

Till then, I'll shoot only with the 120 back until I get this sorted out.

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03-03-2010, 02:02 PM


Quote:
Originally Posted by crackhead View Post
my Koni Omega has a light leak on some pictures like below:



Only seems to happen with 220 film in a 220 back, it's always a reddish color, and it bleeds into the border, consistently on the same place (about vertically and halfway between the midpoint and right edge of the photo).

Is this a back issue, or perhaps dark slide slot related? I read that reddish leaks means the leak is coming or bouncing from the rear due to the color layers?

Till then, I'll shoot only with the 120 back until I get this sorted out.
One caveat . . . I am not familiar with your particular camera. So these comments are general in nature.

It looks like it could be dark slide related but I suspect it could be the back seals. Remember, 220 film has no paper backing so light can get to the film from behind. I find that the seals where camera backs close are more likely to fail because they are usually foam rubber that deteriorates. The dark slide slot is usually felt and they last forever. Also the vertical streak closer to the center leads me to believe that the light is leaking in from behind. Light would not tend to leak at the dark slide to appear in the middle of the frame but start at the portion of the film closest to the dark slide and eventually fade out.

If the light is coming from behind then it is not occurring to the frame in shooting position. The light is striking the film spooled up on either side. So . . . are the first and last frames OK?

Hank
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03-03-2010, 07:27 PM


Thanks for the insights, Hank. I went and checked the film movement with a dummy roll and indeed, the light leak's position corresponds with a leaky back seal on the feeder spool's side. It lines up almost perfectly. So the film gets hit before it's even exposed.

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03-03-2010, 08:33 PM


I don't know the Koni Omega at all, but I have done this with other cameras...

If you can remove the lens and then not load film in it, then you can look through the lens mount with a dark cloth over your head and shine a small high intensity mag-lite along the edges where the light seals are and locate the leak exactly. I did that on one of the Mamiya TLRs as well as on one of the the Bronica S2A film backs (...the Bronicas do not have seals - - the light locking is entirely mechanical). That helped me see where the leak was and make sure it was repaired correctly when I got it back.

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03-04-2010, 09:42 AM


What is the condition of your light seal foam? If it is gummy you may want to scrape it out and replac it.

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03-04-2010, 10:00 AM


The camera's foam on practically all surfaces is hardening and needs replacement.
I bought the camera "as-is" so this was to be expected. Do you have any recommendations on which replacement foam to use? I heard that using Goo-Gone and Micro-Tools' 2mm foam would be appropriate.

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03-04-2010, 06:56 PM


I usually use a small flat bladed screw driver, acetone (finger nail polish remover) and patience to remove old light seal foam. If the old adhesive is persistent; Roll up a small amount of toilet paper and stuff in in the channel the light seal foam adhesive is in. Then soak the TP with acetone. Let the acetone work on the old adhesive for about 5-10 min.. Be sure to allow the acetone to fully dry and evaporate before putting in new LS foam.

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