Getting wife a new DSLR camera

[klynam]

At the risk of getting flamed or worse, I'm going to post this and hope for (at least a few) useful responses...

My wife has a 40D camera and Sigma 24-70/f2.8 lens. She helps as my 2nd at small weddings and portrait shoots. She has an excellent eye for composition and posing, but virtually no knowledge (and only marginal interest) in the technical aspects of photography or the settings and operations of her camera.

I know what you're thinking just stay with me...

The other day we shot a small wedding and when reviewing the shots, image after image was either mis-focused or very improperly exposed. This really upset her (again) and she asked me if there was anything I could do - other than just setting the camera on fully auto mode - to help her shots turn out better.

Of course MY first response was the same as YOUR first response, "Honey, you just have to understand and learn to use your equipment. There's no other option."

However, over the past few days I've begun challenging that thought - mainly because I DO know how to operate my camera and a lot of my shots are not coming out like I want either. And despite my subjective professionalism, the fact is every day takes us deeper into an era of photography where camera intelligence frees the operator more and more to concentrate on what's happening in front of the lens rather than behind it.

And that fact finally led me to this question: If she were to start over again with the latest prosumer level dSLR technology, what would offer her the most freedom to work the way she wants to work?

What current prosumer dSLR camera has...

The best TTL flash integration?
The best auto-focus capabilities?
The best dynamic range?
Auto ISO when using fixed aperture and shutter speed?
Fast, sharp lenses with images stabilization?

Unfortunately, I haven't been keeping up with the current offerings from all the manufacturers - so I put the question to you...

Forget brand allegiances, what current prosumer dSLR camera would you recommend in this situation?

(Ps. I realize the somewhat naive nature of this question. But for just a few minutes, please put that aside and think out of the box with me. )

[Tom]

She has a very good camera and a great flash. If money were no object, then I would probably get a D3s and 24-70 2.8 - though it doesn't have IS. For in-lens IS in that range, you need the 24-105L.

But you already know the bottom line:

Of course MY first response was the same as YOUR first response, "Honey, you just have to understand and learn to use your equipment. There's no other option."

Buying a new camera isn't going to fix the fact that she doesn't know how to use it. The 40D AF is more than adequate in the hands of someone that knows how to use it. The AF is good, the TTL with the 580EX II is good, the IQ is good, and that lens is good.

I am in the process of teaching my wife, too. She has a great eye and talent for editing, but zero photography experience other than snapshots. It is very intimidating to her.

But in the price range of the 40D (say 500-1500) you aren't going to get significantly better than what you have. If anything, I would upgrade to another 5D Mark I. Using it in auto-exposure and auto white balance turns it into a really expensive point and shoot.

Have you tried getting her on the back button focusing? That can be a good start.

[Carl Stone]

AFAIK, there is no camera model that will replace a photographer. The camera is merely a tool, it needs to be controlled to produce what you want.

[DoublyDan]

7D baby!

[klynam]

Originally Posted by Thomas Campbell

Have you tried getting her on the back button focusing? That can be a good start.

No, and I need to use that myself. I only use the half-press / recompose technique and that's a habit I must break.

Three key features we don't have with our 5D or 40D that (I believe) would really improve our keeper ratios are...

1. Truly reliable focus from the selective focus points (the only one we can trust with either camera is the center point)
2. Auto ISO capability (so we can set aperture and shutter speed and let the camera adjust ISO on the fly for proper exposure)
3. Micro-adjustment for lens front/back focusing (w/ memory of each lens we use)

Guess it's time for a 5D-mkII...

[Dobick]

Originally Posted by klynam

No, and I need to use that myself. I only use the half-press / recompose technique and that's a habit I must break.

Three key features we don't have with our 5D or 40D that (I believe) would really improve our keeper ratios are...

1. Truly reliable focus from the selective focus points (the only one we can trust with either camera is the center point)
2. Auto ISO capability (so we can set aperture and shutter speed and let the camera adjust ISO on the fly for proper exposure)
3. Micro-adjustment for lens front/back focusing (w/ memory of each lens we use)

Guess it's time for a 5D-mkII...

You said it your self -- you can't even "trust" your center focus point. Both of you need to learn the camera, and its limitations.

Congratulations on a new 5d Mk II. your camera frustrations just got more expensive, but they sure won't go away.

As Thomas said, the 40d focus is well above adequate. Using back button focusing (and removing it from the shutter button) is a first step that should help your keeper rate tremendously.

If your wife is unwilling to learn how to operate the camera, why not put it over into auto mode. If she doesn't want to selectively choose the aperture to affect depth of field, and if she is uninterested in creative shutter speed control, and further more incapable of making any decisions better than the brain of the camera, then why not off load the real work in photography to the camera?

Either learn how and why the camera is making the decisions that it is making (from incorrect focus all the way to metering modes and metering decisions) and learn to correctly control them, or put it in auto and don't worry about it.

[Tom]

I was happy with my focus points on the 40D. I shot many sports with it without issue. I can't imagine for portraits or weddings the AF demands would be more than the sports demands (quick moving focus)

Auto-ISo - I've never used it on any camera. Don't really see the value. I'd rather just go Av or Tv depending on the situation.

I'd learn the more accurate rear button focus first. It will improve both of your images because when you half click and recompose then fire, it is trying to focus again for you before it shoots. That back button will eliminate that and you will get more keepers.

I think you both have the right equipment for the job, unless you have lenses that severely back/front focus. The 50D has microadjustment.

[doctahjones]

Originally Posted by Thomas Campbell

I'd learn the more accurate rear button focus first. It will improve both of your images because when you half click and recompose then fire, it is trying to focus again for you before it shoots.

that's not necessarily true.

nikon (at least my d80, and i'm sure canon has it too) has 3 different auto focusing modes when using the shutter button at half click. AF-A means the camera decides when it needs to refocus. AF-S means it focuses once at the half click, and then as long as you hold it at half it will not refocus. AF-C means it will continue adjusting the focus until the button is pressed all the way to take the pic.


i tried back button focusing but i switched back. i didn't see any advantages over the half click when used in AF-S like i normally do. i also didn't like having to hit a button with another finger to take the picture after focusing. i like having a finger free for last second exposure adjustments.


however, i would imagine that in her case it's in an AF-A mode so it's probably refocusing when the shot happens.

[texkam]

She helps as my 2nd at small weddings

Have her shoot video.

[doctahjones]

Originally Posted by Thomas Campbell

I was happy with my focus points on the 40D. I shot many sports with it without issue. I can't imagine for portraits or weddings the AF demands would be more than the sports demands (quick moving focus)

i would imagine the problem with the weddings and maybe some portraits is enough light to provide enough contrast for the AF to pick up on. I would think that sports in general would have plenty of light (maybe not nighttime sports, unless in a well lit stadium/arena) to provide a good contrasting area for AF.


at least that's what i'm starting to realize with some of my shots. it seems the ones with plenty of available light focus just fine, but ones that are indoors/lower light seem to not focus so well (even with the grid that my sb600 flash throws out in low light).

[Tom]

Originally Posted by doctahjones

that's not necessarily true.

nikon (at least my d80, and i'm sure canon has it too) has 3 different auto focusing modes when using the shutter button at half click. AF-A means the camera decides when it needs to refocus. AF-S means it focuses once at the half click, and then as long as you hold it at half it will not refocus. AF-C means it will continue adjusting the focus until the button is pressed all the way to take the pic.


i tried back button focusing but i switched back. i didn't see any advantages over the half click when used in AF-S like i normally do. i also didn't like having to hit a button with another finger to take the picture after focusing. i like having a finger free for last second exposure adjustments.


however, i would imagine that in her case it's in an AF-A mode so it's probably refocusing when the shot happens.

I haven't shot with a D80, so I couldn't say.

I turn off the half click focusing with the CFs and turn on the AF-ON button. Focus with my thumb, recompose, click. My index finger is making my exposure changes, so it is irrelevant to my thumb focusing.
I do:
Af-ON focusing
half-shutter off
spot meter
single point (different points depending on what I am shooting)
al servo focusing

I for weddings/portraits, I rarely lose a shot due to poor focusing. It happens, but it isn't common. Sports is another matter.

i would imagine the problem with the weddings and maybe some portraits is enough light to provide enough contrast for the AF to pick up on. I would think that sports in general would have plenty of light (maybe not nighttime sports, unless in a well lit stadium/arena) to provide a good contrasting area for AF.

Yeah, I was taking more about night sports. The toughest part about wedding is the dancing when the lights are cut. But a 5D2 isn't significantly better at that than a 5D1 or 40D. A 1D3 is much better at low-light focusing than the 5D2. In a situation like that is when I will up the power on the strobes, up the iso and stop down. It isn't ideal, but that's life.

[klynam]

Originally Posted by Dobick

You said it your self -- you can't even "trust" your center focus point.

Not sure what you're point is here - I didn't say this at all.

Originally Posted by Dobick

Both of you need to learn the camera, and its limitations.

Waste of your breath and my time.

Originally Posted by Dobick

Congratulations on a new 5d Mk II. your camera frustrations just got more expensive, but they sure won't go away.

Maybe Canon and Nikon will stop making new cameras with all those unnecessary new features and improvements.

Originally Posted by Dobick

As Thomas said, the 40d focus is well above adequate. Using back button focusing (and removing it from the shutter button) is a first step that should help your keeper rate tremendously.

Finally something constructive.

Originally Posted by Dobick

If your wife is unwilling to learn how to operate the camera, why not put it over into auto mode. If she doesn't want to selectively choose the aperture to affect depth of field, and if she is uninterested in creative shutter speed control, and further more incapable of making any decisions better than the brain of the camera, then why not off load the real work in photography to the camera?

Either learn how and why the camera is making the decisions that it is making (from incorrect focus all the way to metering modes and metering decisions) and learn to correctly control them, or put it in auto and don't worry about it.

Valid points, but nothing new and nothing helpful.

It's responses like this that make me hope I never lose touch with the inevitable frustrations and desires that occur during the process of becoming a photographer.

[klynam]

Originally Posted by texkam

Have her shoot video.

This is an interesting idea. Not as the actual videographer, but perhaps very useful for hybrid video/still presentations for clients and marketing our services. Thanks for thinking outside the box.

[doctahjones]

Originally Posted by Thomas Campbell

I haven't shot with a D80, so I couldn't say.

I turn off the half click focusing with the CFs and turn on the AF-ON button. Focus with my thumb, recompose, click. My index finger is making my exposure changes, so it is irrelevant to my thumb focusing.
I do:
Af-ON focusing
half-shutter off
spot meter
single point (different points depending on what I am shooting)
al servo focusing

i'm:
af-s focus mode
single point focus
spot meter (smallest setting, 6cm i think?)


then i have my index finger half down on the shutter for focus, and thumb on either focus point or move up to the back dial for shutter speed (i generally already know what aperture/dof i'm wanting so that doesn't need quick adjustments). basically that way each finger has 2 jobs. if i moved to back button focus, my thumb would have 3 jobs (shutter speed, focus point, focusing) and index only one. that's an imbalance for me

I for weddings/portraits, I rarely lose a shot due to poor focusing. It happens, but it isn't common. Sports is another matter.


Yeah, I was taking more about night sports. The toughest part about wedding is the dancing when the lights are cut. But a 5D2 isn't significantly better at that than a 5D1 or 40D. A 1D3 is much better at low-light focusing than the 5D2. In a situation like that is when I will up the power on the strobes, up the iso and stop down. It isn't ideal, but that's life.

i hear ya on that. i hate having to iso up, especially when you have a cheaper body that has alot of noise the higher you go. always looks -great- on the ~2in lcd, but then when i look at it on the big screen, ugh.

higher usable iso/lower light capibilites is what i think the biggest usable difference (besides little bells and whistles and video) is between camera bodies. generally the more $$ it is, the better it does in low light. at least that's what i've gotten out of looking at all the iso examples on dpreview.com of the higher bodies.

i personally haven't used anything higher than my prosumer d80 to be able to tell which does better low light focusing though. interesting that the 1d3 would do better than the 5d2 in low light focusing.

[klynam]

Originally Posted by Thomas Campbell

Auto-ISo - I've never used it on any camera. Don't really see the value. I'd rather just go Av or Tv depending on the situation.

I'd definitely use it. It would be liberating to lock in my aperture and shutter speed and let the camera adjust ISO for correct exposure.

Originally Posted by Thomas Campbell

I'd learn the more accurate rear button focus first. It will improve both of your images because when you half click and recompose then fire, it is trying to focus again for you before it shoots. That back button will eliminate that and you will get more keepers.

Bold = so half-press is NOT achieving focus-lock?

Originally Posted by Thomas Campbell

I think you both have the right equipment for the job, unless you have lenses that severely back/front focus. The 50D has microadjustment.

I agree and think we do have some lens issues. Micro-adjustment alone isn't worth the price to me. Upgrade would have to be the 7D / 5DmkII for better ISO, focusing, micro-adjustment, LCD, etc.

Thank you for taking time for constructive advice TC.