Q for real estate and architectural photogs

[JohnT]

I hate posting a "what lens" question, but I don't know much about TS so here we go...

It looks like I might be landing a long-term gig with a realtor of high-end properties. My wide is 16-35, but I'm thinking a TS will be in order for best results. Body is 5D Mark II. What would you recommend?

[tc95]

John....I use two different set-ups....I shoot Sony...

A700 (CropSensor) - I use a Sigma 10-20mm....
A900 (Full Frame) - I use a Sigma 14mm older version non-fisheye...

Both use an external flash to bounce off the ceiling...I use a bouncer on the flash...

I went ultra-wide...because you can always crop the image to fit your needs....I normally shoot at the 10mm or 14 mm range...so you can see the whole home...

Good Luck...

[KdLaneJr]

The 16-35 II can get the job done.

If you're going to go with TS-E's, then the 24mm II or the 17mm. These are manual focus lenses. You may want a different focusing screen optimized for manual focus unless you plan on using live view all the time. Personally, I think the 24mm is wide enough on a FF body.

The primary advantage of the TS-E's (for me) is the shift function. Tilt is nice, but usually unnecessary.

The TS-E 24mm Mk II is sharpest at f/14.

[jkderby]

For out side the TS lens. For inside the 16-35 should be good. Major issue is lighting for the inside photos. Might consider HDR for inside. Can substitute the TS lens feature with the feature in photoshop.

[jkderby]

Link to good examples of structures. As I mentioned before it will be the lighting that makes the photo not the lens.

Structures | Seattle Commercial Photography ? pictures for Advertising, Marketing, Head Shots | Red Box Pictures photo studio

[shnitz]

Definitely shoot on a tripod, so that you can bracket. I hate calling it HDR because of all the ways that it's "misused" today. But, you'll definitely want to combine images to bring out shadow detail and ensure bright nice exposure throughout the image. Using film, I just made double exposures, but digital makes it easy.

As far as using a 17mm or 24mm lens, you won't need a focusing screen. You'll be shooting at such small apertures that everything is going to be in focus, and anyway you'll get better results calculating and using the distance scale on the lens, along with chimping.

[rhoffart]

John, if it helps I threw on my 24-70 and took this about 12 feet from the fridge ... the lines are not too distorted ... you can see it (close left) but none at all in the doorway.

[JohnT]

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I have done a little architectural photography for fun, but I need to do the RE shoot right the first time to secure a long-term gig. I will take into consideration everything that's been shared.

[ElanR]

Your lens is fine. Spend your money on lighting. You typically need 3-8 pieces of lighting to setup one shot.

[JohnT]

Originally Posted by ElanR

Your lens is fine. Spend your money on lighting. You typically need 3-8 pieces of lighting to setup one shot.

That many lights, huh? Well, I have a couple of studio strobes and two flashes with some modifiers. That will have to do for now if or until things pick up a bit.

[jkderby]

When using a wide angel inside try to have the corner of the room in the middle of the frame. Then the angles of the walls radiating from the corner will not be as noticeable. Will look more natural. Look at the link above and notice where the corners are in the photo.

[venchka]

A good tripod. Kinda goes without saying.
A good polarizer. Maybe polarizers on the lights too. That's how it was done once upon a time. Canon's 24mm lens is the widest that will accept a polarizer.
A good level.
In the example provided by Rick I can see where additional lights out of sight in the hall would help.
I only know one architectural photographer. He was well trained with view cameras. Market forces dictated a move to 35mm full frame digital and Tilt/Shift lenses. Shift is GOOD!
There are other options in the digital world. They are not budget friendly.
Good luck.

[JohnT]

Originally Posted by jkderby

When using a wide angel inside try to have the corner of the room in the middle of the frame. Then the angles of the walls radiating from the corner will not be as noticeable. Will look more natural. Look at the link above and notice where the corners are in the photo.

Thanks for the tip.

[tc95]

Well there are a few things that I do to make the pictures easier to use....first buy a jpg converter software...that will take your picture and resize it to a more manageable file for the internet...the one thing that I have found that if the pictures take too long to load...people just pass-the house up...the software I use takes my 24mb file and downsizes it to 326kb 1024x768 file for internet use...I keep the old large file for flyers and other marketing material....

[SnapItUp]

I shoot with at Tokina 10-20 on Nikon D3. This is a crop sensor lens so I can only shoot as wide as 13mm before vignetting is visable. Distortion can be corrected to a degree using the transform in photoshop. Going ultrawide makes rooms appear larger. Small bathrooms are impossible to shoot without going ultrawide (I guess you could stitch multiple photos). Just be careful of your tilt. As to the comment about lighting, it is very important. Be careful of multiple light sources. Shadows is multiple / strange directions confuse the brain. Most people can't put their finger on it but the picture will strike them as strange.

Depending on the type of realestate you shoot, there may not be much room for a tripod or light stand. Rooms that give me the most trouble are libraries or studies where the rooms are dark with a lot of wood tones. A strobe can brighten the room but the wood is very reflective. If you have the luxury of time, these rooms photograph better at sunset so you can drag the shutter to capture more of the ambient light. I have examples on my website that is being redone. Check out my Gallery.