Lens Selection for Product ImagesThis is a discussion on Lens Selection for Product Images within the Equipment Talk forums, part of the Photography Information category; I have a online Business related to airsoft guns and have a need to take pictures of products, I'm currentlly ...
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Posts: 28 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Houston, Texas Real First Name: Donald Camera: NikonD70, NikonD7000 Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 1 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 | Lens Selection for Product Images -
05-19-2011, 10:21 AM
I have a online Business related to airsoft guns and have a need to take pictures of products, I'm currentlly using a 35 1.8 with my D7000.
I'm having pretty good luck with this setup but not sure it is the best, Wondering if there might be better combo, most of the items are Pistol Size. And having a problem getting everything in focus sometimes. | | | | | Sponsored Links | Premium Members do not see Google advertisements. SIGN UP today and help support our community.
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(#2)
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05-19-2011, 10:24 AM
What apertures are you shooting at? For some items I use my 100mm macro around f/11-16, but that focal length can be limiting depending on workspace, and I have to use additional lighting.
This was actually f/5.6 with the 100mm macro 
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(#3)
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Posts: 944 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Huntsville, Texas Real First Name: Allan Camera: Nikon, Contax, Vivitar, Cambo, Yashica Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 3 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 |
05-19-2011, 10:25 AM
First off to get the sharpest images you need to be in the middle range of your f stops. If you start at f1.8 you get a very narrow depth of field, as you increase the number the depth of field increases but once you pass f11 or so (lens dependant) you start getting into diffraction which makes everything look slightly OOF. So what this means is you need a longer focal length lens, take the picture from further back, so that you have enough depth of field at say f8 to get the entire object.
This is of course a very basic explination but it should give you enough food for thought to expand on it.
Allan | | | |
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05-19-2011, 10:27 AM
You need to try a shift lens!
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Happy shooting and warm regards,
Michael
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(#5)
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05-19-2011, 11:26 AM
Here are the other lens I own: Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR DX, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR and Nikon 85mm f/3.5 VR DX Micro
Also attached a coupld of pictures of items...
Last edited by gresults; 05-19-2011 at 11:29 AM..
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(#6)
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05-19-2011, 12:48 PM
My first thought is that you need to add more light and up the aperture.
another "trick" would be to place everything on the same focal plane... So for table top shooting that would mean that you get more above the items so that they are all the same distance from the lens.
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Nevermind -- I'll take care of it myself!
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(#7)
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05-19-2011, 01:46 PM
My first instinct was to say use your 85mm when I saw it was a Nikon Micro, but since I have never used that lens I went and did some digging. While it is nothing like I thought it would be, I still think it is the best of the bunch for what you are trying to do assuming you want to stick with lenses you already own.
Get a tripod, slap the 85 on your D7000, get far enough back to go slightly less than full frame, set your aperture to f8, fire away. If that still is not enough, back up more then crop in post.
Allan | | | |
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05-19-2011, 05:35 PM
I think the Nikon micro 85mm is incredible, to each his own I guess. Any of your lenses would provide plenty sharp images for product photography, although my first choice would be the 35mm or 85mm, depending on how much space you have. If you really want to increase the quality, work on your technique more, and add more light and stability. This could be as simple as a SB700 bounced/diffused, or it could be an amateur strobe setup like an AlienBee or used lighting setup from the classifieds. Get yourself a decent tripod. | | | |
(#9)
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05-19-2011, 10:09 PM
Thanks for the input, I have Nikon R1C1 and R1 Macro Flash, SB-800, 3 x sb-600, and a studio light kit.
The biggest problem is time and space so will need to do some rearranging, most pictures need to be put up fairly quick as I get new products in so need to start working on taking my time. | | | |
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05-20-2011, 07:56 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gresults I have a online Business related to airsoft guns and have a need to take pictures of products, I'm currentlly using a 35 1.8 with my D7000.
I'm having pretty good luck with this setup but not sure it is the best, Wondering if there might be better combo, most of the items are Pistol Size. And having a problem getting everything in focus sometimes. |
As long as your subject fills the frame equally, the DOF will be the same regardless of the focal length used. The real issues are space and distortion. A wider lens can be used in a smaller space, may distort the shape and proportion of the product, but does give you a better three dimensional feel. A longer lens will require more distance, will have no distortion, but can make the product look 'flat' and lifeless.
A good compromise is a 50-60mm macro lens shot at f/11-16. I have a Sigma 50/2.8 macro that is excellent for this type of work and can be bought pretty inexpensively used. The older Nikon 60/2.8 is another good inexpensive choice. If nothing you shoot is very small, a 50/1.8 is also good. The 35/1.8 is too wide. | | | |
(#11)
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05-20-2011, 08:52 AM
I have great luck with my Canon EF-s 60mm F2.8 Macro. it's the sharpest lens in my lineup and can get great closeups. As someone else suggested, the TiltShift option is a great though since you can have better more appealing product composure in the shot. Good Luck!  | | | |
(#12)
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Posts: 28 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Houston, Texas Real First Name: Donald Camera: NikonD70, NikonD7000 Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 1 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 |
05-20-2011, 03:04 PM
Well went ahead and purchased Nikon 60mm F/2.8 and Nikon Nikkor 50 mm F/1.8 and I will play with those too a bit and see how they work out. | | | |
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05-20-2011, 09:43 PM
"Typically", your best bet for doing product photography is to use a tilt-shift lens... such as the 85mm. That way, you can use a non-diffracting f-stop like F8 or F9 and then you can add tilt to add DOF... assuming you're wanting everything to be completely in focus from front to back. But... that's just my opinion.
Oh, the 60mm macro is straight up awesome... nice purchase!
- Wil | | | |
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Posts: 944 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Huntsville, Texas Real First Name: Allan Camera: Nikon, Contax, Vivitar, Cambo, Yashica Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 3 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 |
05-20-2011, 10:16 PM
Wil is right on, as long as you don't mind spending $2k on a lens :-)
And yep, the 60 I have heard good things about, nice one.
Allan | | | |
(#15)
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Posts: 15 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Real First Name: John Camera: Nikon D3 Can Others Edit My Photos: No iTrader Rating: 0 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 | Focus Stacking -
06-02-2011, 11:57 PM
View the clip for focus stacking. Using this technique, can offset the cost and learning curve for a tilt/shift lens. | | | | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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