White Balance/Grey Card Recommendation?This is a discussion on White Balance/Grey Card Recommendation? within the Equipment Talk forums, part of the Photography Information category; I've seen these from $5 to $150. What's your favorite product for setting white balance on your DSLR?
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10-05-2011, 12:32 PM
I've seen these from $5 to $150. What's your favorite product for setting white balance on your DSLR?
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10-05-2011, 12:45 PM
Go to a used book place and look for National Geographic's "Photography Field Manual" but make sure no one tore the free card out. It's also a good read. | | | |
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10-05-2011, 12:45 PM
I've always liked the WhiBal cards. Easy to use, and always gave me perfect results. WhiBal WhiBal - LensAlign
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10-05-2011, 01:35 PM
I use an expodisc. | | | |
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10-05-2011, 01:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper i've always liked the whibal cards. Easy to use, and always gave me perfect results. whibal whibal - lensalign | +1
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10-05-2011, 02:06 PM
I use this wonderful little contraption that I was given long ago called "my eye"
It works this way...
If I look around me and see that it is the sun that is lighting the scene, then I set my whitebalance around 5200-5800. If I am going to be shooting in the shade of that sun, then I set my WB to 6500 or more.
If I am shooting indoors, then I look around and see what kind of bulb is most prevalant. If it is flourescent, then I set my WB to the FL setting, if the bulb has a filament, then I go with something in the neighborhood of 2800 to 3000.
If I look around and see some strange color cast that is causing the shadows to go funky orange colors, while the highlights on the walls tend to be blue, then I just swag a guess and fix it later (only ran into this two times, and the gym was built by the same company, so I am sure it was the same type bulb)
Point is -- if you know that you are going to be tweaking the results later (and even when I have done grey cards I always tweaked later) there is no real need to be exact to perfect neutral white (especially if you dont really like neutral white to begin with)
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Nevermind -- I'll take care of it myself!
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10-05-2011, 02:08 PM
on a related side note -- my favorite grey "card" I ever bought was a 14"x14" lens cleaning cloth that was made at 18% grey. Worked wonderful for metering and WB when needed.
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Nevermind -- I'll take care of it myself!
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10-05-2011, 02:37 PM
WhiBal. Plus you get these nifty youtube video's of some guy. WhiBal White Balance Gray Card Video Tutorial by Michael Tapes | | | |
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10-05-2011, 02:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobick on a related side note -- my favorite grey "card" I ever bought was a 14"x14" lens cleaning cloth that was made at 18% grey. Worked wonderful for metering and WB when needed. | I have one of those too, though I don't think mine is quite that large. Mine is probably 8 or 10 inches square.
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10-17-2011, 03:12 PM
This question has been asked before, and I bought a Whibal card as a result. It's easy to use, but I find that as long as I shoot in RAW, I can set my white balance by eye and get close enough for post processing to handle the images. The real problem is exposure compensation, the same as when I was shooting film. Some surfaces just reflect light more than or less than 18%. As a result, I'm learning to read histograms to see if I have 'exposed to the right', or underexposed by one stop, or whatever exposure theory I may be trying out at the moment. So, reading into your question, you might ask yourself if what you are trying to avoid is really an exposure issue. | | | |
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10-17-2011, 03:52 PM
A white folder, such as those for placing 8.5 x 11 paper into, or a plain white sheet of paper. A white CD sleeve
Any white sheet of plastic,but never white fabric. | | | |
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10-17-2011, 03:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddha This question has been asked before, and I bought a Whibal card as a result. It's easy to use, but I find that as long as I shoot in RAW, I can set my white balance by eye and get close enough for post processing to handle the images. The real problem is exposure compensation, the same as when I was shooting film. Some surfaces just reflect light more than or less than 18%. As a result, I'm learning to read histograms to see if I have 'exposed to the right', or underexposed by one stop, or whatever exposure theory I may be trying out at the moment. So, reading into your question, you might ask yourself if what you are trying to avoid is really an exposure issue. | An incident meter will not require any compensation as it reads light hitting the subjet, not light reflected by it.
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-Paco Romero website| blog| MM| Facebook "Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography."- George Eastman
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10-17-2011, 08:42 PM
A white coffee filter in place of an expodisk. It really works (and works quite well) and I bet you have 250 of them in your pantry right now. Absolutely no harm in trying it out.
I have no problem at all spending money when it is needed or helpful, but when the results are essentially the same for sub $0.01 as for $85.00. I'll pick the cheap one. | | | |
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10-17-2011, 09:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalrog A white coffee filter in place of an expodisk. It really works (and works quite well) and I bet you have 250 of them in your pantry right now. Absolutely no harm in trying it out.
I have no problem at all spending money when it is needed or helpful, but when the results are essentially the same for sub $0.01 as for $85.00. I'll pick the cheap one. | Argh! Stupid non-bleached filters!  Also heard that a white top of a Pringles canister works.
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10-18-2011, 01:40 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by auddii Argh! Stupid non-bleached filters!  | Haha! I actually had to steal one from work because my coffee maker at home used a cone one and the basket shaped ones are easier to work with. | | | | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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