Options for off camera flash?

[bbailey]

I would like to start working more on lighting with my 580EX flash. I have the short 2-ft cord, but it is really limiting. What are my other options? I think one option is a long PC Cable, and another is a transmitter/receiver system like a Pocket Wizard correct? Do you lose any functionality with either of these options?

Thanks,
Ben

[wadebarker]

I usually use Pocketwizards with a Paramount miniphone to hotshoe cable but another option might be the Canon ST-E2 transmitter. It works best indoors though, the infrared sensing doesn't work in bright sun. The advantage with the ST-E2 is that it works with ETTL where the PW's only work with manual flash settings. Here is a link to the cord...http://www.paramountcords.com/prodde...?prod=pw-mhsf1.

[spitstickler]

I actually modified my cord. Cut it in half and soldered mini din connectors (one male & the other female) on each end. Then you just purchase a regular pc keyboard extention cable to the length you want. If you want to go back to the shorter cord you can just plug the two ends together. I'd never soldered anything before but found a post on another forum that had detailed instructions so I decided to give it a go.

Another resoure you might want to check into is this guys blog: http://strobist.blogspot.com He's a photojournalist and has lots of good information on building a inexpensive and portable light kit. He shoots Nikon, but there is plenty of information there that is applicable to everyone. He's a fun read and I've learned a lot from him.

[OneWayMule]

Originally Posted by spitstickler

Another resoure you might want to check into is this guys blog: http://strobist.blogspot.com He's a photojournalist and has lots of good information on building a inexpensive and portable light kit. He shoots Nikon, but there is plenty of information there that is applicable to everyone. He's a fun read and I've learned a lot from him.

great site... thanks for sharing!

[NathanJK]

Originally Posted by OneWayMule

great site... thanks for sharing!

Seriously good site! I think I've read the entire thing now, and thats a bit scary.

[LonestarMan]

Originally Posted by spitstickler

I actually modified my cord. Cut it in half and soldered mini din connectors (one male & the other female) on each end. Then you just purchase a regular pc keyboard extention cable to the length you want. If you want to go back to the shorter cord you can just plug the two ends together. ...

Me too, works great. Here's the link. Link

[Digital Prophet]

Originally Posted by OneWayMule

great site... thanks for sharing!

Hmm that does look like a pretty good site. Thanks for da linky link.

Prophet out.

[cmalana]

The ST-E2 is primary means for triggering at this time and doesn't work too badly outdoors (though not consistently if bright sunlight is hitting the transmitter or receiver ). I like the ability to quickly control ratio and output since flashes don't have good modeling light capabilities so sometimes adjustments are needed on the fly.

I also use an on-camera 580ex at times when I know I need 2 lights and add a 3rd 580 ex if I need another light for background or hair. It's great to be able to control all the ratio's from the camera. That's the only reason I haven't gone to PW setup yet.

[bbailey]

Thanks. The strobist site is great. I had found it the night before I posted this and it got me interested in trying some off camera stuff, hence the questions.

I think I will try making a cheapo cord. Once I get better with it then I can start thinking of PW and such.

Thanks.

[boomerd35]

Bump for the strobist site. I've been going there every other day since link above was posted. Great site and no-nonsense info, although I don't know if I totally agree with his asessment that you dont' need a light meter because it's one more thing to carry around. Seems like a small item to carry around. Maybe when you've got enough years behind the camera, you'll be able to instinctively estimate light properly.

Troy T.

[boomerd35]

Originally Posted by spitstickler

I actually modified my cord. Cut it in half and soldered mini din connectors (one male & the other female) on each end.

Anybody have pointers on soldering? I've got an el cheapo iron from Home Depot, and I've never been able to make it work. Sad thing is, my father is an electrical engineer and used to have a side business building and repairing electical components (our home was full of Heathkit). However, he never taught me how to solder (I know that's like Craig Biggio's kid not knowing how to throw a ball). The only thing I know is, heat the work, not the wire.

Troy T.

[LonestarMan]

Originally Posted by boomerd35

Anybody have pointers on soldering? I've got an el cheapo iron from Home Depot, and I've never been able to make it work. Sad thing is, my father is an electrical engineer and used to have a side business building and repairing electical components (our home was full of Heathkit). However, he never taught me how to solder (I know that's like Craig Biggio's kid not knowing how to throw a ball). The only thing I know is, heat the work, not the wire.

Troy T.

Let your iron come up to temprature. Put on your Walgreen Special Glasses (not for safety, but because my eyes are 42 years old). Clean the tip with a wet spoung or paper towel. Touch the tip of the iron with a little solder to "prime" the tip so to speak. Tin all of the wires by flowing a small amount of solder to the exposed wire, Do not strip to much, the cups are not very deep. Now flow a little solder into each cup. You now have solder on the wire and the cup. This should be almost enough for the job. Re-heat the cup and insert the wire. Flow more solder if needed.

The Key to soldering is transfering the heat and "flowing". Priming the tip often and keep it clean is important. Solder should flow in and around the wire, not clump into a ball.

[PeteQ]

Great site, lot's of good reading to be sure.

Soldering. It takes a couple of practice runs but once you get the hang of it, no problems.

Tips.... Hmm, make sure you are using the right size iron/gun for the work. Too little heat and you will never get the solder to flow correctly. Yes, heat the work (be it a connector pin, wire, whatever) but NOT the solder. Heating the point furthest from where the solder is put will actually cause the solder to "flow" towards the heat and help guarantee a good connection becasue the remainder of the piece has enough heat to allow the solder to fill/join the pices. Use flux or a flux core solder to ensure a good connection. The flux cleans the pieces to be joined and helps ensure a good joint.

Just practice with some spare pieces of wire and maybe a couple of cheap pins from RadioShack and you'll get the hang of it in no time.

[simon]

There are basically three things to remember when you are soldering:

1. you can't solder dirt (everything must be spotless, use flux)

2. you can't form a strong mechanical connection with solder (if you are soldering wires or anything else heaver than elec. componenets, you need to twist, wrap, bend whatever before you solder

3. don't heat the solder. this has a caveat when you are working near other components. You may need a heat sink to do it properly. If you dribble hot solder over something, it just isn't going to work

one further note, always insulate bare wire connections after you make them, expecially if you are splicing wires. Use electrical tape, and note that it will unravel unless you make three tension free turns around it (roughly).

Originally Posted by PeteQ

Great site, lot's of good reading to be sure.

Soldering. It takes a couple of practice runs but once you get the hang of it, no problems.

Tips.... Hmm, make sure you are using the right size iron/gun for the work. Too little heat and you will never get the solder to flow correctly. Yes, heat the work (be it a connector pin, wire, whatever) but NOT the solder. Heating the point furthest from where the solder is put will actually cause the solder to "flow" towards the heat and help guarantee a good connection becasue the remainder of the piece has enough heat to allow the solder to fill/join the pices. Use flux or a flux core solder to ensure a good connection. The flux cleans the pieces to be joined and helps ensure a good joint.

Just practice with some spare pieces of wire and maybe a couple of cheap pins from RadioShack and you'll get the hang of it in no time.

[Mark McCall]

Ben,
I've never been a fan of TTL based flashes.
That said, Canon sent me a 580ex for testing and I was very impressed.
The old 550ex's were awfully inconsistent.

I use the Metz 45CL-4 for all off-camera work. It's a sensor based flash, so you can use it in auto mode when it's off the camera, and fire it with a radio slave.

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