If you clean your own sensor answer me this

[iCe]

Most instrument air systems that I've been around (been working in the gas processing industry for since '78. Been designing/programming/starting up control systems for almost 20 years) had filters downstream of the dryers but, in a lot of cases, they weren't maintained. Also the desiccant goes bad and water gets in the carbon steel piping which causes rust. I would be real careful about blowing air from an instrument air system. Does he have a nitrogen bottle for high pressure transmitter testing? Or even better, chromatograph helium is very clean

[MT Stringer]

The air dryers do have after filters. I haven't seen a nitrogen bottle that the techs use, at least they haven't brought it into the control room. The techs usually pump up the transmitters with a hand pump. I'll also be looking for an alternative sensor cleaner if I retire at the end of the year. :(
Mike

[Patti Edens]

I use SensorKlear by LensPen and get 100% almost always on the first try. Every once in a while I have to swipe it again.

Lately I've been cleaning my sensor around once or twice a month. It only takes about 2 minutes to:

1. put the camera in sensor clean mode
2. remove the lens
3. swipe the sensor filter
4. replace the lens
5. turn off the camera and then turn it back on (to clear sensor cleaning mode)
6. take a photo.

If the photo shows dust bunnies I just repeat 1 through 6 and I've never had to do it a third time.

I used Copperhill before I discovered SensorKlear. The advantages of SensorKlear over Copperhill are:

No liquids to spill.
A lot cheaper. ($19 for the one I've been using for both of my 20Ds for over a year now.)
You can easily use the SensorKlear anywhere - I've used it in my truck a couple of times.
SensorKlear is legal to carry on an airplane. Eclipse fluid is not.

I also have a couple of LensPens in my camera bag to clean my lenses and I keep one in my desk at work to clean my eyeglasses.