Ordered a strobist studio setup last night!

[BEphoto]

After attending our DFW strobist meetups the last couple of months, i decided it was time to go all-in and get something going. All i had prior to this was just my 580EX II and an off-shoe cord.

This last meetup we broke up into 3 groups, one for Canon E-TTL, one for Nikon I-TTL, and Brad had his "poor man's" strobist kit, which consisted of Vivitar flashes, inexpensive light stands, and less expensive wireless triggers. I would say about 95% of the group were either at the Canon or Nikon demos, but I was immediately drawn to Brad's setup. I'd seen his work and knew how good it was, and he's getting a lot of these results with his strobist setup. The flashes are pretty much manual, and adjusting them consists of moving a light stand a foot this way and that, rather than some electronic something-or-other (TTL) telling you what it needs to be set on. This is the way David Hobby works as well, and how he intended the strobist movement. Also, once you dial it in, it stays consistant throughout the shoot, rather than with TTL every shutter press could potentially be a different reading if a small factor changes.

A very good point was brought up to me. Photographers all seem to scoff at people that shoot in Auto or Program mode and preach shooting manual. TTL is basically Program mode for flash, so why are those same photographers fine with using that? That made me laugh a little when i thought of it, because its just so true.

So... after that meeting, i went home, listed my 580EXII for sale on here, sold it, and used all of the money made from it to purchase a 2 light strobist studio! It's pretty crazy how much stuff you can get for the price of one used 580EXII, not to mention what all you can get for the price of a new one!

So, here is what i got, all for the price of my used 580.

1) Two Vivitar 285HV's
2) Two 7'6" light stands
3) Two umbrella adaptors w/hotshoe adaptors
4) Wireless Transmitter/Receiver set, plus one extra receiver (Cactus v4's. Not pocket wizards, i know, but these have gotten great reviews since coming out in march. A huge step up apparently from their v2.)
5) One Wescott 43" white umbrella, with a removable black cover. Can be used as shoot through or bounce.

I'm still trying to figure out what modifier im going to use on my fill flash. Brad was using the Alien Bees Bolly Box, but im thinking about trying different on-flash modifiers. The Bolly Box looked great, but the Vivitars sit a little high in the box, so really you are only using the top 1/3 or so of the box to light the subject. Im going to see if i can find something that will not have quite as much dead space and use more of the product.

Anyway, I'm just really excited about getting a small portable studio going and thought i'd share.

Disclaimer: This post is in no way intended to flame any photographers using manufacturer brand flashes and/or some type of TTL. Please do not take it as such. This is only my excitement of buying inexpensive gear to achieve the same results.

[luis_relampago]

I still have my vivitar strobist setup almost identical to yours except for one more 285HV and the cactus v2 (modified) triggers. This year my wife got me a vagabond II for my studio lights(AB's and WL's) and that is what I am using this days for outside sessions.

[T. Adam Martin]

Brad:

Thanks for posting this. I've been considering attending one of the strobist meetings and you've convinced me.

I ordered the dual strobe kit from Midwest Photo Exchange and just received it yesterday. I'm going to begin playing with it tonight. I agree with the observation that you have much more to learn about shaping and controlling light with manual flash settings. I would contend, however, that once you get a lot of the basics down (i.e. flash/ambient balance, bouncing, etc.) there are a number of things the speedlights can do for you that expand your repertoire.

Thanks again for the insight.

[BEphoto]

Midwest is where i got everything but the flashes and light stands. I saved a few bucks getting those on ebay (crossing fingers and hoping for no scams). A little money saved here and there is still extra money! The flashes have 2 year USA warranty.

As far as the meetups go, they are definitely worth attending. I've learned a lot just in the two meetings ive been to so far. Its really nice to hang with a room full of photogs for a few hours. General conversations can end up being huge learning experiences. There are people there that are brand new to photograhy and flashes, as well as full time professionals, so you get to see things from both ends of the spectrum.

Typically there will be a presenter that talks about whatever the topic of the month is for around an hour or so. Then there will be demo time and other things going on that take up the next couple of hours. Most of the camera manufactures have reps there with demos you can get your hands on as well. Arlington Camera has a table set up where you can buy the latest and greatest strobist stuff, usually with some sort of discount. The local pro shops chip in door prizes (this months prizes were worth over $300, last month they were worth over $400). Its a great time, and a good place to meet other photogs. Oh, and did i mention drinks and snacks provided!

Hope to see you out there at the next meetup!

[ChristopherCoy]

Just out of curiosity, what was your total cost of this setup? I'm only now venturing into on camera flash, but based on what I've seen and my very limited experience, I'd really like to totally bypass it... LOL

[BEphoto]

Originally Posted by ChristopherCoy

Just out of curiosity, what was your total cost of this setup? I'm only now venturing into on camera flash, but based on what I've seen and my very limited experience, I'd really like to totally bypass it... LOL

It was right around $360 for everything, shipped. That is not including the second flash modifier, which will run somewhere around the 30-40 dollar range, depending on what i end up going with.

I'm going to order another Vivitar 285HV and wireless receiver next friday after payday to use as a background light/hair light/backup/whatever-its-needed-for light. Probably end up getting a Honl Snoot and some gels at the same time too.

So, for a 3 light setup it will probably be right around the $500 range.

2 lights are more than enough for me at the moment. Im not sure that i would want to learn this stuff with anything more than that!

[ronocnikral]

i've been slowly collecting strobist stuff also. I am so surprised how cheap it is!! i've been hunting for and looking for great deals on older nikon flashes (SB-24 to 28). I am surprised you can still get these for around $50-100 each, which is great. Our big splurge was the PW's, just couldn't get past all the modding and and RF interference on our 5d to get anything else. Plus, you can sell them FAST if need be. even the stand was less than $30. and midwest is the place to get most of this stuff, although better deals can be had elsewhere on somethings (like our bogen superclamp) for a few extra bucks in savings.

I have also made the ceral box snoot and the grids from the cardboard and they work great. I get a little too much diffusion with the cardboard grid, but I can always pump up the power a little.

going cheap and "poor boy" is the way to go. we've had fun making everything too. and forget the canon flashes for this stuff!!

[BEphoto]

I've always been a big DIY fan.

Brad and I were talking about some DIY modifiers, and concluded that sometimes its better to just drop the $20 for one rather than spending 4 days glueing black straws together to make a grid. A snoot however is definitely one area where im pretty sure i can come up with something easy and quickly, with household materials. I'll end up getting a Honl though, just for a more "professional" appearance to potential clients and the outside world. They probably wouldnt get why a photographer they are hiring is wrapping duct tape and cardboard around their flashes! The $20 is then worth it in the end result, in my opinion.

[Jake]

Originally Posted by BEphoto

......Photographers all seem to scoff at people that shoot in Auto or Program mode and preach shooting manual. TTL is basically Program mode for flash, so why are those same photographers fine with using that? That made me laugh a little when i thought of it, because its just so true.

I read your disclaimer, but I also see a question mark above so I'm going to treat this like a question.
"Why are those same photographers fine with using that"?
Well, because they know when and how to use it. I'm a 90% manual flash guy myself, but when I need ETTL it can be fantastic and fast.
Someone like Mike Fulton can use ETTL to it's fullest if they want.
Or this guy over at FM: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/791634 I don't know him, but he knows exactly how to use ETTL to get the look he wants.


Congrats on your setup, you should be able to produce excellent photos with it.
Manual is very consistent!

[BEphoto]

Originally Posted by thejakestir

I read your disclaimer, but I also see a question mark above so I'm going to treat this like a question.
"Why are those same photographers fine with using that"?
Well, because they know when and how to use it. I'm a 90% manual flash guy myself, but when I need ETTL it can be fantastic and fast.
Someone like Mike Fulton can use ETTL to it's fullest if they want.
Or this guy over at FM: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/791634 I don't know him, but he knows exactly how to use ETTL to get the look he wants.


Congrats on your setup, you should be able to produce excellent photos with it.
Manual is very consistent!

You've got a good point. Maybe all the TTL jargon just went a little over my head from the get-go. I never really got to experience it to the fullest since i never had multiple lights. Im more than happy to go full manual though, even though im sure i will be missing out on some of the bonuses of TTL, all of which are probably the key factors in the cost of the flashes.

[Lexie]

Just wondering................When using the Vivitar 285HVs or any other flash, don't you also need hot shoe sync cords for PW's or Cactus? Or am I missing something here?

[zebulus]

Originally Posted by Lexie

Just wondering................When using the Vivitar 285HVs or any other flash, don't you also need sync cords for PW's or Cactus? Or am I missing something here?

No, the cactus triggers have hotshoes on them.

[ronocnikral]

and with nikon flashes they already have a pc port on the flash.

also, these are the grids we made...
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/10...spots-for.html

longest part about making them was letting the glue dry. I don't really have a problem with diy things and looking "professional." now if i made a camera out of cardboard and duct tape...maybe, but a snoot and grid?? I don't think that is a deal breaker. $20 here and $20 there adds up.

[BEphoto]

Originally Posted by zebulus

No, the cactus triggers have hotshoes on them.

I think the triggers come with the cables to use them with a sync cord as well. It says they are compatable with the Vivitar 285HV's so im hoping that i wont need anything else to trigger them. If i understand correctly, i can mount the flash on the umbrella adaptor on the shoe mount, and use an included cable to trigger the flash. If i end up needing something else, i'll just grab it at Arlington Camera.

Here are the triggers... http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/produc...4&cat=0&page=1

And here are the flashes.... http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/02...f-classic.html


Let me know if you see anything that i may be missing, as far as triggering goes. Now that i think about it, i may need hotshoe adaptors to trigger. The receivers have built in threads for light stands, but that wont fit on my umbrella adaptors.

[Lexie]

Originally Posted by BEphoto

I think the triggers come with the cables to use them with a sync cord as well. It says they are compatable with the Vivitar 285HV's so im hoping that i wont need anything else to trigger them. If i understand correctly, i can mount the flash on the umbrella adaptor on the shoe mount, and use an included cable to trigger the flash. If i end up needing something else, i'll just grab it at Arlington Camera.

Here are the triggers... http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/produc...4&cat=0&page=1

And here are the flashes.... http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/02...f-classic.html


Let me know if you see anything that i may be missing, as far as triggering goes. Now that i think about it, i may need hotshoe adaptors to trigger. The receivers have built in threads for light stands, but that wont fit on my umbrella adaptors.

I have an old Promaster FTD 5700 flash that I use sometimes. It will fit on the stand but, I had to get a hot shoe cord to connect it to the PW. I was just wondering if that might also be the case with the Vivitar 285HVs.

Others know way more about this than I do. I'm still learning!