Outdoors with monolights...This is a discussion on Outdoors with monolights... within the Lighting Discussion forums, part of the Photography Information category; In this months issue of Popular Photography there is an article with 5 lighting techniques, and one of them I ...
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Posts: 4,273 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sanger, Real First Name: Chris Camera: Nikon D90 Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 8 LIKES Received: 1 LIKES Given: 0 | Outdoors with monolights... -
05-10-2010, 03:44 PM
In this months issue of Popular Photography there is an article with 5 lighting techniques, and one of them I found quite interesting. However, I can't wrap my head around how they get it done.
The link to the article is here: - Page 3 | Photography - PopPhoto.com Offers Camera Reviews and Exclusive Photo Tips
And you should see the one with the boxer standing on a flatbed trailer, with a very blue sky behind him.
I know that this can be achieved using a high aperture (2.8 -4) and a high shutter speed 1/1500 or higher, based on what I've learned from the Tri-Coast technique. However I can't wrap my head around it using a low shutter speed.
The only thing that I can think of is a very low ISO, shutter speed of around 200 which is the max sync speed of my camera using my AB's, and using an aperture of f16 or more. This way it would keep the ambient light out leaving the sky a dark blue, and keep the extremely bright highlights on the subject toned down to a viewable level without being blown.
The article gives you a setup diagram, but doesn't tell you anything about settings, and I think I've thought about this to the point that I've confused myself.
Am I on the right track?
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05-10-2010, 04:14 PM
Shooting wide will not work because you'll loose the sky detail.
I say f/8 or f/11 ISO 100 the shutter speed depends on how bright the sunlight is.
I reckon you can get away with just the 1/250 to 1/400 shutter speed and around 1/2 power on an AB 800.
I'm using PW Flex TT5 with my AB and Einstein so I can get away beyond 1/250th shutter. | | | |
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05-10-2010, 05:00 PM
Chris,
Your on the right track. That is one way to pull it off. Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristopherCoy In this months issue of Popular Photography there is an article with 5 lighting techniques, and one of them I found quite interesting. However, I can't wrap my head around how they get it done.
The link to the article is here: - Page 3 | Photography - PopPhoto.com Offers Camera Reviews and Exclusive Photo Tips
And you should see the one with the boxer standing on a flatbed trailer, with a very blue sky behind him.
I know that this can be achieved using a high aperture (2.8 -4) and a high shutter speed 1/1500 or higher, based on what I've learned from the Tri-Coast technique. However I can't wrap my head around it using a low shutter speed.
The only thing that I can think of is a very low ISO, shutter speed of around 200 which is the max sync speed of my camera using my AB's, and using an aperture of f16 or more. This way it would keep the ambient light out leaving the sky a dark blue, and keep the extremely bright highlights on the subject toned down to a viewable level without being blown.
The article gives you a setup diagram, but doesn't tell you anything about settings, and I think I've thought about this to the point that I've confused myself.
Am I on the right track? |
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05-10-2010, 05:41 PM
go outside and shoot the sky to get it the color that you want, but keep the shutter speed at 1/200 or slower (1/250 in my case)
Once you have the settings right for that (which more than likely will be around f/11 or f/16, then you just need to add enough light to light the subject at f/11 or f/16 -- if you want even darker sky, then you will need enough flash to get you to f/16-f/22. Not terribly difficult, and remember that the distance from the subject can go a long way to increase the light that falls on your subject
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Nevermind -- I'll take care of it myself!
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05-11-2010, 06:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobick and remember that the distance from the subject can go a long way to increase the light that falls on your subject |
Right... ratios. Closer=more further=less, kinda like Mikey and Cody do with the monopod.
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05-11-2010, 06:39 AM
shoot till it looks good. | | | |
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05-11-2010, 06:50 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by zebulus shoot till it looks good. |
Troll. 
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05-11-2010, 08:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristopherCoy Troll.  | At least I have talent. | | | |
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05-11-2010, 08:02 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by zebulus At least I have talent. |
They jury is still out on that one... 
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05-11-2010, 08:30 AM
Chris,
You've got it right. There are basically two constants, your shutter sync speed and your ISO. Set the ISO as low as it will go (100 on the D90?) and your shutter speed to it's max (I thought the D90 would sync at 1/250s). The only other variable you need to be concerned with is the aperture. If you take your meter and set the ISO and shutter speed to those two values and take a reading, it'll tell you exactly what you need to get out of your ABs in order to get both the blue sky and have matched flash output.
If it's in the middle of the (sunny) day, you can pretty much bet that the "sunny 16" rule will be in effect so you can get pretty close just doing the math in your head. But having a meter or using the one in the camera will get you there.
- Wil | | | |
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05-11-2010, 09:25 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ParkImaging (I thought the D90 would sync at 1/250s). |
It might be... 200 was just on the top of my head.
I've got an older Sekonic light meter that I may have used twice since I bought the thing. I'll try it out.
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05-11-2010, 10:34 AM
No, Chris has it right. The D90 only goes to 200 for flash sync, then it can do FP up to 4000. And Low1 ISO on the D90 is = 100. | | | |
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05-13-2010, 12:12 PM
sometimes you can go above your sync speed and use the banding in your favor. I know the boxer photo you are talking about. take and turn you camera upside down, this will put the area that would not receive exposure at the top of the frame. raising your shutter speed then will affect the sky, but the flash will still expose the boxer. you would have to take some test shots to determine where the area not exposed by flash falls. I have also found that sync speed for speedlites and strobes can be a little different. My Olympus syncs at 180 on my Metz but I use it regularly at 250 and sometimes even 320 with my alien bee. | | | |
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05-13-2010, 01:05 PM
ND filters can help lower an entire scene's exposure - I use one almost exclusively if I want to have a darker or more saturated sky. | | | |
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05-31-2010, 03:48 PM
Wow..was looking for some advice like this. Shot a scene like this months ago and nailed it. Tried it again the other day and couldn't get the settings right to save my life. Got frustrated and abandoned it. Now I have to go try it again. | | | | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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