Nikon CLS Questions

[silversixx]

Hello Everyone!

I have a few questions about a decent lighting set up using nikon speedlights.
as of right now I am using a single sb-900, I plan on getting two more sb-600s. I also have an old school sb-20. I have light stands and sand bags thats pretty much it.
First, I was wondering what I would need to make the sb-20 work wirelessly with the rest of the system? I also wanted to get some sort of light modifier kit, anyone know of a good one? snoots, barn doors, diffusers things like that, or would some sort of small soft boxes work better? anything Im missing?

Thanks very much,

Jonathan

[pressp]

I use the Nikon CLS on almost all of my shoots. As opposed to using my camera's pop up flash, I would strongly recommend the SU-800 to control your other flashes. The sb-20 can be used within the system but would require the su-4.

However I don't believe that an sb-20 mounted on a su-4 would allow for high speed sync. Moreover, you would not be able to control flash output from the master unit.

As far as light modifiers are concerned, I use a beauty dish and the qbox-24 from cheetahstand.com. These products are extremelywell-made and reasonable, in terms of cost.

[silversixx]

Thanks for the fast response. How many flashes can the su-800 control? I guess Ill just use the sb-20 for light painting and other things like that, and get the sb600s & sb900 to work together as a system.

Those light modifiers look nice. Would one of them work better for automotive photography?

[pressp]

No prob..The Su-800 can control up to 3 groups of flashes distinguished by Group A, B and C. From what I understand there is not a limit to the number of flashes that can be within a group. I once saw a shot where there were at 25 flashes used in a shot. Personally, I've used as many as 5.

I wish I could answer your question re: automotive photography. The stuff that I do is primarily glamour, models and weddings. I would also recommend the battery packs loaded with the NiZn batteries. This pack costs much less than the Nikon counterpart and lasts all day long.

[silversixx]

That is really awesome.

I have seen people just use regular soft boxes like you linked with success. I have also seen people use umbrellas. I think the larger the soft box/light source the softer and the more even the paint will look. I have great results "painting" with one speed light, the light just seems to harsh. I also have a 42x72 inch diffusion panel (p22) I was thinking about trying out.

Thanks for the help!

[nate.smith]

I've had some problems with CLS with my flashes not going off when I have them attached to a soft box. Does the su-800 put out more power than the camera?

[Ahh!]

CLS: Line of sight is your friend. Bounce is iffy. After that, RadioPoppers are a must. Harsh Sunlight factors negatively into the equation.

[pressp]

In my experience, I've been able to fire flashes using the sb-800 as the master from distances of 50-60 feet. I've also found that the sb800 is a far more efficient master unit than the pop up flash on the d300.

[danchez]

D700 user here and I use my pop up flash to set off my slaves. I've used it in direct sunlight, around corners, distances up to 30 feet with only a handful of non-flashes. I love the CLS system!!!

[ChristopherCoy]

Line of sight has carried us almost a year, but the more we use OCF the more we realize its limitations. We've had issues trying to fire the units when they are behind a pole, or around a corner, and as Peter said, in harsh direct sunlight. Just last week, I picked up a set of Radio Poppers to help offset the problems line of sight has.

The nice thing about Radio Poppers, is that because it isn't hard wired to the system, you can mix it up, and use the CLS system and the radio triggers at the same time. So units placed in front of the subject can be on the line of sight system, and units placed behind the subject or behind a wall and such, can be triggered by the Poppers.

As for your modifier question, there are all sorts of things that you can purchase or make yourself. For instance, beer coozies with the bottom cut out, make great snoots. And you can find cheap hot shoe soft boxes all day long on eBay, and places like Cowboy Studio.

[pressp]

I think the radio poppers are great but that system can get pretty pricey. When I was pricing them the PX system, it was about $500 for 1 transmitter and 1 receiver.

[ChristopherCoy]

Originally Posted by pressp

I think the radio poppers are great but that system can get pretty pricey. When I was pricing them the PX system, it was about $500 for 1 transmitter and 1 receiver.

They are a bit pricey, which is why its taken me a year to buy them, but they are worth every penny. In addition, the PX transmitter will control the JR receivers, and you can still control Alien Bee lights with them, so there is no need to have two systems. The other advantage of the Radio Poppers is that you can start with a single transmitter and receiver, and then add receivers as you go. I'm starting out by mixing the CLS system, with my Poppers, and will add a receiver for the additional flashes as I go.

[hue-e]

I tried using CLS, but once I realized you can't go totally manual in that mode, I picked up some cheap trigger and said goodbye to CLS.

Now I just need to replace those crappy triggers with some pocket wizards so I'm not missing any shots.

[ChristopherCoy]

Originally Posted by hue-e

I tried using CLS, but once I realized you can't go totally manual in that mode, I picked up some cheap trigger and said goodbye to CLS.

Now I just need to replace those crappy triggers with some pocket wizards so I'm not missing any shots.

CLS isn't a mode, its a triggering system. As far as I'm aware you can do everything totally manual from your menu system, under the 'bracketing/flash' part, or by using an SB800/900 as a master on your camera.

Why can't you go totally manual? You should be able to shoot TTL, as well as adjusting the power from 1/1 down to 1/64 I think....

I could be wrong though.

[hue-e]

I know it's not a mode... sorry I didn't call it what I should.

I tried a few things and ultimately liked everything to work much simpler by just going to manual and dialing my lights up and down individually, right on the strobe.. instead of poking through menus on my camera.