Information overload... Help with simple setup.

[LauraM]

Originally Posted by KdLaneJr

Laura, There are a lot of products out there competing for your equipment dollars.

From the equipment you have and plan on buying, it's not obvious (at least not to me) how you want to use all this equipment.

How are you planning on using your 580ex with the off camera flashes?

As far as triggers, that all depends are your goal and what kind of flash system you are willing to build.

Great questions! I'm not sure if you shoot weddings, but I'm just looking for a typical, simple reception set-up. I want to use the 580 on camera (with a cord or on a bracket of some sort) as my main flash, with the vivitar as a secondary light to illuminate things going on on the dance floor/rimlight. I would also like to use either flash with a grid or some other modifier so that I can keep ambient (uplighting/dj lights) but still have the people lit. Part of the reason I posted this is because there is SO MUCH information and SO MANY products out there that people claim are "must have" that I can't think straight. I understand that everyone works differently and what I start with, I may not end up with, but I'm looking for some guidance on a starting point! So far, I've just been bouncing flash, but I'm ready for some better directional lighting that doesn't create raccoon eyes like bouncing does, and I'd love to start adding some rim lit shots to the mix. I'd also like to find what type of modifier for my flash would work best for wedding exit photos at night. I HATE my exit photos. I feel like I'm really lacking in that area.

I don't use ETTL... I prefer complete control over how much light is coming out each time. I use manual flash control.

Bruce: I didn't know Vivitar made a slave!

Brad: OMG I didn't think of that with an optical slave. I am SO glad that you mentioned that. I definitely will steer clear of optical! Then again, I do have a short fuse for wedding paparazzi.

[KdLaneJr]

I don't use manual flash when the distance to subject is changing constantly. If I were to do so, I'd raise my iso and use minimal manual flash power for nothing more than a little catchlight and perhaps some image "pop".

Using the Vivitar to raise ambient is a nice idea, but I really don't think it is up to the task without once again raising iso and in this case, also adding a battery pack.

Receptions usually warrant dragging the shutter, so sync speed shouldn't be an issue. This means your most reliable method of firing the vivitar will be pw plus II's. You will need to connect the one on the camera via your sync port and the one for the Vivitar may need a cold shoe with built-in sync port if the vivitar doesn't have a built-in connection.

Flash brackets are a love/hate accessory. There are photographers that love them and photographers that hate them/will never use them.

There are many different models. They vary in cost, complexity, reliability and weight.

I prefer the older style Custom Brackets. They are bulky and somewhat heavier compared to most others, but they also work very well. I attach my entire bracket assembly to a quick release and carry it upside down on a Rapid R-strap. If I need to take it off, it detaches easily and can stand on it's own on any stable flat surface.

If you go with pw plus II's to control your off camera flash you will be able to fire studio strobes later (raising ambient) by adding another pw plus II or FlexTT5. If you don't want to plug into your sync port on your camera, using a flextt5 with your flash will allow you to trigger a pw plus II. The flexTT5 will be a bit of overkill, but it will work nicely and will not prevent you from using your flash in manual mode.

[dmcantrell]

Here's my $0.02. I used to have the cactus triggers. The price was right on those things for sure. In my first portrait session where I tried to use them, they only fired about 1 out of every 3 or 4 attempts. I missed many, many shots because of this. I wouldn't even consider taking them to wedding where you will only get one chance to get the shot. In may case, I had the luxury of my home studio and could re-shoot anything I wanted to.

I bit the bullet and bought some Pocketwizards - I got a set of 3 used here on this forum buy/sell. They fire every time, and I don't even think about doubting them anymore. It just took the uncertainty completely out of the situation.

I know that Pocketwizards are much, much more expensive than the Cactus triggers, but missing some critical shots at a wedding may prove to be even more expensive.

[LauraM]

Okay so here is an update!

I've purchased 2 triggers (PW plus ii's) and I'm planning to get 1 more. I've also got a light stand, and plan to pick up one more.

I have a 580EX ii, a Vivitar 285HV, and a crappy hong kong flash. I got the Vivitar to replace my hong kong flash because I'm dropping so much coin on camera equipment if I spent another $150 on a 430 my husband would get rid of me. lol

GOAL 1: Reception set-up - 580 on cord connected to camera. (5Dii) Vivitar on light stand.
GOAL 2: Two OCF light portrait set-up.

So for goals 1 and 2, I think I have everything I need minus a lightstand and an umbrella or softbox... but for some reason I can't trigger my Vivitar. I've tested it and it's working, but it doesn't flash when I trigger it. My other flashes do. I have it connected to a PW on a hot shoe to PW cord. Can these not be triggered via hot shoe?

[KdLaneJr]

The vivitar should work that way. Set the pwII, that is connected to the hot shoe, to "both" and make sure you plug the cable into the correct port on the pwII.

If you can't get it to work, there may be a hidden issue.

[LauraM]

Yeah, I did that! No dice! I tested the Vivitar on a hot shoe and it works. I've tested my hot shoe to PW cord with another flash and that works, too; but the Vivitar doesn't want to work with that cord even though it's just another hot shoe. I guess I'll have to find a different type of cord that the Vivitar wants to work with.

[KdLaneJr]

You might try putting the vivitar on a cold shoe and using mini to vivitar sync cord. This will bypass the hotshoe entirely.

[LauraM]

That's what I'm going to try! Now to see if the camera shop close to me has one of those cords! Thanks! :)