Outdoor shooting - fill flah, reflector, or both? UPDATED

[ndsimm]

So what do you all use when shooting outdoors? I've been using fill flash, but I keep getting inconsistent results (shadows, shade patterns, etc...)
I have a couple of reflectors and have no problem getting an assistant for future shoots, but I was curious about what would work best
Fill Flash works for me with overcast skies and full shade, but full sun or partial shade always gives me problems:

examples:
shade from trees


in the sun (tried to elimate shadows on face, but no good)


sun behind her, with some flash, but it doesn't seem strong enough:

[Lucifer]

I would say reflector works best to get it even out and softer looks.

[Steve Margulis]

I would suggest using both fill flash and reflector(s). Are you relying on ETTL for flash or setting it manually? You may need to work with power levels to get the look you desire.

[carrbowl]

I am not an expert, nor do I even begin to think I am close...but an expert did show/teach me how to do this...here's the saying..."if the light is the same, the flash is different, if the lighting is different, the flash is the same." The explanation - if the lighting is the same, you meter the ambient light and add 2/3 rds of a stop to the flash. If the lighting is different, you meter the ambient light and make your flash the same. This is a general rule, at least to begin with, then you can adjust a stop or two according to your photo preferences. Unfortunately I haven't been able to test this, but this guy makes more money and teaches more than 99% of us...so I would guess he is pretty accurate.

[rdcole]

Looks like the flash was on TTL. The TTL system has no way of knowing what the subject is in the frame so in partial shade you will usually not get enough fill light. It will vary depending on the amount of light in the partial shade you are shooting in.

Use a reflector if possible and fall back to Manual Flash when needed.

[rott]

Originally Posted by rdcole

Looks like the flash was on TTL. The TTL system has no way of knowing what the subject is in the frame so in partial shade you will usually not get enough fill light. It will vary depending on the amount of light in the partial shade you are shooting in.

Use a reflector if possible and fall back to Manual Flash when needed.

I agree with this. However, the flash will "know" what your subject is if you use flash exposure lock (FEL). I don't know if it's true for all cameras, but on mine, pressing the "*" FEL button will use spot metering and fire the flash to take a reading. So, if my flash is set to +/- 0, and I meter off the average caucasian's face (close enough to middle grey) by using the FEL button, the flash will fill in the face to proper exposure. Make sense?

You'll have to play with it and see. For this photo, I'm on manual, set to underexpose the background by 2 stops (either by shutter speed or aperture, doesn't matter), flash on 0ev fired into a big white cardboard reflector. FEL Metering was done off baby's face. You can see from the shadows that he is completely shaded by the cardboard, but the flash "fills" it in.

[adirty1]

for the under the tree shots or open shade get a large scrim to smooth out the dappling of the sun and shadows. Or find some open shade created by a solid object like a building. The scrim would also help with that hot spot on the brides shoulder. using the flash is great but not always needed. sometimes a little reflector goes a long ways. Just all depends on the look you are going for. When you are shooting from far away or close and you just can't get light on a model for a main or if you are trying to throw in some fill in the city and the sun is blocked by buildings you can use a plexi mirror that will bend and allow you to focus the light. Just be careful with the plexi mirror you can cook your model fast on a summer day from across 4 lanes of traffic.

[ngoduyviet]

Originally Posted by rdcole

Looks like the flash was on TTL. The TTL system has no way of knowing what the subject is in the frame so in partial shade you will usually not get enough fill light. It will vary depending on the amount of light in the partial shade you are shooting in.

Use a reflector if possible and fall back to Manual Flash when needed.

I found this to be almost always true using matrix/evaluative metering, but if you used Spot and metered just around the shaded area, it'd know to fill. TTL (or eTTL) needs some getting used to, you'll just have to play around with it. Best use is manual if you can, then you have total control.

[ndsimm]

OK, here's my second try using some of the info I got (I've bookmarked this site so I can keep practicing). I'm getting closer, but let me know your thoughts:





Probably should have had a reflector on this one, but I like it anyway:

[bondarnes]

I learned a long time ago that it is too much work to find a great location and try to produce adequate lighting. I would much rather find great lighting and make an adequate location work for me. I work in the shade 90% of the time and the times I am in the sun I will usually backlight and use reflectors and/or gobos to balance the light. The mark of an amateur is that they look first for a location, where a professional looks first for the light.

[Steve Margulis]

These shots look alot better, although the third shot has some blown highlights. A scrim would have helped here. I really like the second image.

[luis_relampago]

It's all about trying to balance the light on the subject, scrims, reflectors and fill flashes are going to be need it. There is many techniques, but I prefer to shoot on the shade and use off camera flashes to create that balance, sometimes is kind of difficult but it's about trying and learning. Your second shoot looks definitely better!

[ndsimm]

Thanks for the feedback, but, Don, I have to disagree....
I think you need BOTH light and location to make a great image. Great light in a crappy location is not better than the converse and what if the client chooses the location and you have no control over the lighting?

My reason for asking was so that I can improve and adjust in ANY situation, not just the ones that are ideal for me....so I guess I'll continue to be an amateur until I get it right....

[brad]

Do a google search on "One Light Workshops" .. some inspiring stuff with a fairly simply (if not expensive) setup.

[ndsimm]

thanks Brad, I did and hate that I missed the one that was down here recently....