Back Home (was: Trip Planning Advice: Desert SW Road Trip)

[jeffkohn]

So my bro-in-law is getting married in Vegas on June 30 and we're supposed to be there. This will be our only chance to take a trip before fall so we're going to make a road-trip of it and visit some of the parks in the Desert Southwest. I'd rather be making this trip in the off-season when there are fewer crowds and cooler temps, but it's not my wedding so oh well. The plan is to leave Houston on a Friday, and arrive in Vegas the following Friday.

[Edit - itinerary updated 4/29]

• Outbound trip
  -------------
• Thursday - After work drive Houston to Dallas
• Friday - Drive Dallas to Santa Rosa, NM (510 miles)
• Saturday - Drive Santa Rosa to Farmington (300 miles). Shoot afternoon/sunset at Bisti Badlands
• Sunday - Shoot sunrise at Shiprock; drive to Mexican Hat, UT (130 Miles); shoot Monument Valley late afternoon/early evening.
• Monday - Sunrise tour in Monument Valley; drive to Page, AZ (125 Miles)
• Tuesday - pre-dawn/sunrise at Horshoe Bend; AM at Lower Antelope; drive to GC North RIM (125 miles) (camp)
• Wednesday - spend sunrise/AM/early afternoon GC N Rim; drive to Bryce in afternoon (160 miles)
• Thursday - spend day in Bryce
• Friday - AM in Bryce, drive to Vegas that afternoon. (250 miles)

• Return trip
  -----------
• Sunday - Drive Vegas to Albuquerque (574 miles).
• Monday - Drive to White Sands/Alamogordo (243 miles) - Valley of Fires detour if time permits; spend afternoon/sunset at White Sands
• Tuesday - Sunrise at White Sands if not too tired; drive to San Antonio (647 miles).
• Wenesday - Drive home to Houston (200 miles)

It's a pretty full schedule but I feel like dropping anything would be a missed opportunity; there's just so much to do and see out there. I really wanted to spend a second night in GCNP camping at Toroweap, but unless I drop either the Paige, Monument Valley, or Bryce stop there just isn't enough time. And as neat at Toroweap Point looks, I think these other stops offer more bang for my time.

I considered Zion instead of Bryce, but in the end I chose the latter for cooler temps and (hopefully) fewer crowds. I'm guessing the Angel's Landing and Narrows hikes would be pretty crowded that time of year, but I'm hoping we can find some trails with fewer people on them in Bryce, plus with the cooler temps we can hike into the afternoon without gettng roasted.

So does this look realistic, or is there something I've failed to consider? I'm not crazy about the fact we won't get to do much real hiking until Wednesday, but there's really no getting around the fact that the first few days are mostly spent driving, there's a lot of ground to cover coming from Houston.

[mgadell]

You could always gain another day or two of shooting by ditching the wedding.

[jeffkohn]

Originally Posted by mgadell

You could always gain another day or two of shooting by ditching the wedding.

I would love to, believe me. I even suggested arriving in Vegas Saturday around lunchtime (the wedding is that evening) and was shot down.

I am reconsidering my original plan to drive straight back on Sun & Mon though; not much point in making it into work on Tues when Wed is a holiday. So I may save White Sands for the return trip and shuffle some other things around to see if I can make better use of my time in AZ and UT.

[jeffkohn]

Based on some feedback I've already received, I've made a few adjustments to the original itinerary. By saving White Sands for the return trip and going to GC before Bryce, I've managed to shave quite a bit of mileage off of the outbound trip:

[Edit - see top post for latest revision]

I'm still not 100% decided on whether I want to drive to Bryce Wed afternoon or Thursday AM. I'd also still like to squeeze Toroweap in, but unless I can convince my wife to arrive in Vegas Sat instead of Fri that will have to wait for another trip.

[Chief]

If you were in Farmington longer I would take you to the bisti badlands. Maybe some other time.

Have a SAFE trip.

Gordon

[brad]

In the north east corner of Arizona (I want to say off I-40) there is also the Painted Desert/Petrified Forest National Park... I spent several hours driving through there summer before last:

http://jti.smugmug.com/gallery/658182

[KKapple]

Hi jeff, got your IM...

Since your wife is with you, take turns driving and drive straight through.

I have driven all the way from Dallas to Moab before. Its a killer on you but it will give you and extra day to shoot. And you have someone with you and I have been solo.

If it were me since I have been to the area so many times, the only reason to go to Farmington is to go to the Bisti Badlands. I'd blow off Shiprock. You'll see plenty and I am just speaking about a prioity manner. Shiprock is cool and all, But Bisti Badlands is better to spend the time there. Get there in time for sunset and drive hard. Shoot it again at sunrise. Camp in the parking lot. I did this when I was there. Then go to Monument Valley.

Map to Bisti.


Valley of Gods is a disapointment IMO compared to other things you could go see. If your time is getting short blow it off too.

Since your going to the GC direction, Antelope Canyon shouold be shot around 11 am to mid afternoon. You will need the sun up high so it can reach slot canyon floors. And since you are in the area, go see Waheep Hoodoo's.
Here is a pic of them.


Its a 4 mile hike in a river bed to them. Must be there well before 10am otherwise the small canyon wall will block the sun on them.

Personally I'd blow off GC as well and spend time in Escalante close to Bryce...but that just me.
Here is a link to my photos so you can see things that are in Ecalante.
http://xzodus.com/imagery.htm

But if you never have been to the GC, I can understand needing to see it. Can't give ya any advice on this. Been there too many times there and its very crowded.

I'd suggest getting there in time for sunset and shoot. Don't camp, and drive straight to Bryce in time for sunrise.

Bryce is a nice park. You will enjoy it. Make sure you pig out at Ruby's. Huge buffet of meats and potatoes. Bryce point for sunrise is a must. I think its better than Sunrise point but both are good. From fairyland point you can take a few trails to the canyon floor.

On your way back, think about Moab and the Arches NP instead of White Sands.

[JohnRushing]

Sounds great but to be honest i don't think you will make it to all of them. Theres just so much to see at each one that you will end up spending more time than you have planned. If you can make it to each you will probably suffer sensory overload . When you at the Grand Canyon you have to get a sunset photo! Then again sunset or sunrise is wonderful in the Painted Desert also, well actually in all of them. Your going to fry something seeing that much wonderful landscape in that short of time.

[jeffkohn]

Originally Posted by Chief

If you were in Farmington longer I would take you to the bisti badlands. Maybe some other time.

Have a SAFE trip.

Gordon

I've considered trying to squeeze a stop at Bisti Badlands in, just not sure if we'll have time or not. If we make good enough time from Amarillo we might try to go there Saturday afternoon/evening. Do you know about how long it takes to get there from Farmington?

Thanks,

[jeffkohn]

In the north east corner of Arizona (I want to say off I-40) there is also the Painted Desert/Petrified Forest National Park... I spent several hours driving through there summer before last:

Brad, Nice shots, Petrified Forest looks pretty neat. We won't be crossing AZ on I-40 though, since one of our first stops in AZ is Monument valley. So it would be quite a bit out of the way.

[jeffkohn]

Since your wife is with you, take turns driving and drive straight through.

I have driven all the way from Dallas to Moab before. Its a killer on you but it will give you and extra day to shoot. And you have someone with you and I have been solo.

I admire your dedication, but there's no way my wife would consider driving straight through even if I was willing (not sure I am).

Farmington is to go to the Bisti Badlands. I'd blow off Shiprock. You'll see plenty and I am just speaking about a prioity manner. Shiprock is cool and all, But Bisti Badlands is better to spend the time there. Get there in time for sunset and drive hard. Shoot it again at sunrise. Camp in the parking lot. I did this when I was there. Then go to Monument Valley.

I really only chose Farmington because it seemed like a good place to stop for the night. Shiprock just seemed like a convenient stop for a sunrise shoot because it's so close and right on the way. As I mentioned in my reply to Gordon I do want to try to make it to Bisti Badlands if I can though.

Thanks for the tip on Waheep Hoodoos, I'll look into it.

Personally I'd blow off GC as well and spend time in Escalante close to Bryce...but that just me.

I hear ya... part of me wants to skip the more crowded, touristy areas for some of the lesser know spots, but then again it's our first trip to the area so I really feel like we have to visit the GC. Hopefully the North Rim won't be too crowded.

On your way back, think about Moab and the Arches NP instead of White Sands.

I'd love to fit Arches in, but I think it's just going to be too far out of the way. It'll have to wait for the next trip.

[Chief]

Jeff

It's a 35 mile drive South from farmington and about a 1 to 2 mile hike to the closest area. Keith has some good advice but the area he describes is about a 5 to 6 mile hike. Plus it's a good long day trip. Trust me when you see the Badlands time flies because there is so much to see ! You will be amazed.
Let me know in advance and if you want I can play tour guide. You can always catch shiprock on your way west. You drive right by it.

Remember the return trip. You can always do it then..


Gordon

[jeffkohn]

Originally Posted by JohnRushing

Sounds great but to be honest i don't think you will make it to all of them. Theres just so much to see at each one that you will end up spending more time than you have planned. If you can make it to each you will probably suffer sensory overload . When you at the Grand Canyon you have to get a sunset photo! Then again sunset or sunrise is wonderful in the Painted Desert also, well actually in all of them. Your going to fry something seeing that much wonderful landscape in that short of time.

I agree there's a lot to see up there, it's definitely frustrating to have a huge list of stuff I want to see and know there's only going to be time for a fraction of it. I have been reading over Laurent Martres' guide of the area (all three volumes), and the possibilities are endless. So want to fit as much as I can in, but not too much.

[pippin]

well you know its not like its going to go anywhere.

Antelope canyon must be done with a guide, and will take up a couple hours of your time. AND at that point WILL be FILLED full of tourists. I went in the off season there and it was still pretty heavily booked. So if you do decide to do antelope, there will be crowds, ESPECIALLY around midday.

We did a similar road trip when we went on vacation last year - dallas - payson - bryce - arches - antelope - home. Even when we took our time there still wasn't enough time to see it all. Now - with all the things you have listed, you're not going to have a huge amount of time to see it all. Driving sucks. Takes about 3-5 hours to get from page to bryce (took us 3 and we were driving above the speed limit) - and bryce will be crowded in summer. The off season there is also busy. Had to fight for a spot for sunrise shots when I was there, and it was 20 degrees out! Sure, not as busy as zion, but its up there.

You really don't want to overload the itinerary - make room for some stops as you may find something along the way (that isn't in a book) that you may want to see. Or just take a leisurely drive.

[Debbi]

Did a very similar trip last June (same timeframe as you). Took the mid-day "Photogs tour" through upper Antelope Canyon. Got almost 3 hours in the canyon and the first 2 were just our group of 6. Make sure you make reservations at least a day in advance. Bryce Canyon isn't really that crowded in the summer if you go in the morning. We "tried" to make sunrise. We were staying in Lake Powell and left at 3:30 a.m. for the 2 hour drive - not realizing the sun comes up at 4:30!

Be sure to share pics. We had planned on going to the North Rim but there was a fire and the road to the Rim was closed.

By the time you make it to Vegas, will you be awake for the wedding? Sounds like a fun but exhausting trip.