Big Bend National Park

[iinastynateii]

I'm sure some of the members on this forum has been there before. I'm planning to go during Thanksgiving weekend with my girlfriend and her family for the first time. We're going to stay in the High Chisos Backcountry campsites. I just have a few questions though. We bought a guide book, but I'd like some first-hand knowledge from fellow TPFers.

1) Which campsite in the High Chisos did you like best?

2) What were your favorite trails and/or scenic spots?

3) Is there any water in the High Chisos Backcountry (to cook with, etc.)?

4) Are the hikes tough?

5) I'm want to buy a backpack, but at the stores I have looked (R.E.I., Gander MT., Bass Pro Shop) but they didn't have quite the selection I was hoping to find. Any suggestions on where to look? I'd much rather see it in person and try them out than buy them online.

6) And I do plan on bringing my camera. What do you think about a 10-22 and 50 1.4? Contemplating on buying a 100 2.8 before the trip, though. I also have a tripod, but I'm not sure how I feel about adding another 5lb. What say you?

Much thanks!
-Nathan Chantra

[TXFZ1]

Thanksgiving weekend is usually pretty full. Get there early as it used to be first come, first serve for the campsites. The Sierra club usually has a group from Austin, Dallas and Houston. I think the Houston group even quit going on the same weekend due to overcrowding. Are you planning on picnic table or backcountry camps???

Good site: http://www.big.bend.national-park.com/

My favorite day hike is the Lost Mine trail and favorite backpack is the Basin to Laguna Meadow and then down to Blue Creek ranch. You could stash water at the ranch and carry the rest. It's a car shuttle to get back to the trailhead. Mule Ears and the outer loop are awesome.

There is water in the high country but don't plan on it. Pack it in.

Water is required, weighs 8 lbs per gallon, you need a gallon a day per person and you can't drink the 100 f/2.8.

Define tough, if you never backpacked and/or have no desert experience, I wouldn't suggest BBend as the learning outing. Pedernales, E Rock, Lost Maples are good learning weekends. If you are just doing an overnight in the basin highcountry... will not be too difficult as there will be a lot of people around.

Try Whole Earth they also carry a nice selection of backpacks.

David

[phillip ino]

+1 for the lost mine trail...but it is probably the most populated. However, there are multiple vistas to capture shots like this:



Again, like David mentioned, don't bet on there being water available for you. I would always bring my own.

And if you happen to venture into Terlingua, you cannot miss the ghost town cemetery!




The park is HUGE. Choose your hikes wisely. There are all different types of trails for different skill levels. The best thing you can do, and what I did my first time out there, is to join this forum and ask the questions there: http://www.bigbendchat.com/

I brought all my camera gear (and hauled it all up the 5 mile lost mine trail) and ended up only using my Sigma 10-20 90% of the time.

[KD5NRH]

Originally Posted by TXFZ1

There is water in the high country but don't plan on it. Pack it in.

Water is required, weighs 8 lbs per gallon, you need a gallon a day per person and you can't drink the 100 f/2.8.

Hydration bladders are your friend; much easier to lug around than canteens, and if you're careful about packing, you can put an extra full bladder or two into the pack with your other gear and the one in the "active" position. Two full standard bladders will be the daily gallon, and a third is a nice backup if there's any chance something might happen that would prevent you from getting back to civilisation before nightfall.

I have no idea what cell service is like down there now, but it was spotty around Fort Davis, so you should probably just go ahead and do the regular backcountry hike checkin and checkout with the rangers. That way if anything happens they'll know where to look without having to wait and follow the buzzards.

[alamoshutterbug]

Water is the limiting factor, as has been described above. You can spend a day moving back and forth between say, laguna meadows / emory peak, and the lodge ferrying your water before you actually set out to the backcountry trails.

I think you would be all right with the kit you mentioned, but three lenses and camera will take up a large chunk of your pack space. The one time I have been in the chisos with that much kit we stayed in the lodge and day hiked because the logistics of staying overnight with food, water, clothing, bedding, tent, and camera gear would not work for us.

I have a hard time believing that REI didn't have backpacks you thought would work for you. If you can't find it there I don't think you will find it elsewhere. But to advise on brands having done some long range hiking (ten days); I like Lowe Alpine for trek packs, my day pack is a deuter and I love it dearly. Whole Earth Prov. in my experience is less stocked and overpriced.

You didn't mention hiking boots, which is a pretty big deal for the back country. I am a fan of Asolo, but Vasque is also very good. Pricey boots, but well worth it for the support and durability. Have 50 or so walking miles on them before setting out on the trails.

I have done some long distance camping (Philmont 2x in Scouts) and would have to say the Chisos back country is much tougher than the Sangre de Christo mountains in New Mexico where Philmont is; mainly because of water issues in the chisos; no solar powered wells and commissaries full of food.

Definitely use the water bladder approach to carry the bulk of your water. I like the nylon covered ones with straps to hang from tree branches.

To give you a sample itinerary if I were to do several nights in the chisos. I would leave the lodge area early in the morning stuffed with water, food, etc. and hike to laguna meadows camp to offload and return to the lodge area. Then take the rest of the gear up on the second go that afternoon. Keep in mind this trail has a 1500 ft elevation change. Day 2 would be a south rim day hike to return back to Laguna Meadows. Day three would be emory peak and return to L.M. Day four would be return hike via pinnacles trail back to the lodge. I would not attempt Juniper Canyon until I had done this first (I still haven't attempted Juniper Canyon) but if I did I would want to have a shuttle car to return back to the chisos with rather than return on foot.

You should always submit your plans with the rangers. To do otherwise is extremely foolish given the environment you are are trying to survive in. Don't be tempted to circumvent this if the campsites are all full. If nobody knows where you are or when to expect you to return, you are as good as dead. Not to be melodramatic, but even the big bend website has an informational page on "How not to die in Big Bend".

[nash]

There is a lodge in the park you can use as a base, but you need to book well ahead of time. Also, while near there, check out the galleries in Marfa, Alpine, and Marathon.

[scayf]

I backpacked the Emory Peak trail September of '05 ( I was 48 at the time)...nine miles, about 2000 foot gain in elevation, with a 42-pound pack. Thought I was going to have my second heart attack. I had the campsite just east of the peak, and it was worth every step.

I used to own some land out that way, about 22 miles north of Terlingua. Bring water. Once you leave the lodge, that's all the water you'll have. You'll sweat it out and never know it, as arid as it is out there. Don't count on grand, 100+ mile visibility, though...I was lucky to see 25 miles, if that. Too much crap in the air.

Oh, yeah...that "How NOT to Die in Big Bend"? You better believe it. Everything out there has teeth, claws, or thorns. Not pretty little dewberry thorns, either. There's stuff out there that can go clean through your hand.

[studiocygnet]

You've received a lot of good info here already, and I would agree with most of it. As mentioned I bought my Arcteryx backpack at Whole Earth Provisions, they were the only ones with the time to actually fit it and adjust the belts and all.
As far as campsites, you'll probably be taking what you can get around Thanksgiving weekend. I talked to a Sierra club organizer Saturday, the Austin groups trip is up in the air pending any more flooding down there. The hurricane that just came through Baja may be a problem there again.

My favorite hike is out Meadows to the South Rim, around the back by the boot and corral (can't remember the trail name) up Emory Peak, and back down Pinnacles.

As Joe mentioned, hydration bladders are the best. However, as one of the original designer/testers at Camelbak back when it was a Texas company in Odessa, I have to caution everyone against putting bladders in your pack with your other gear. Camelbak started out as a bicycle accessory, but when other groups heard about it, they started being used in more life and death situations. We started hearing horror stories of folks whose bladders leaked inside their pack; not only were they out of water, but all their gear was then wet, and sometimes frozen. The bladders and bitevalves have been upgraded numerous times since the originals, to prevent a catastrophic event, but the possibility still exists. Bladders, bitevalves, and hoses can leak or burst sometimes. Especially when stuffed in a pack under the pressure of all the other gear. So get a couple 100 oz. bladders and sleeves that strap on to the outside of your pack. Less pressure on them then (unless you fall on them).

The hikes are all about medium, going up to Emory Peak is a bit tougher, especially on your knees, the last half mile is like climbing stairs that are unevenly spaced.

Wide lens is good for most situations, but a tele would come in handy for the deer, javelinas, and other wildlife you might run into. I've only ever carried one of those small velcro strap on tripods up there, and attached it to fence posts and trees. But a combo hiking staff/monopod would be great. Some of those rocks in the trail have sent me flying before.

Have a grand time.

[alamoshutterbug]

We use these. Well, maybe the next size down. They are designed to strap to the outside of your pack and be hung at the campsite.

Good point about fitting Tom. Whole Earth Provision will take the time fit you into all of your gear; that is a definite plus about them.

[xseption]

Originally Posted by studiocygnet

My favorite hike is out Meadows to the South Rim, around the back by the boot and corral (can't remember the trail name) up Emory Peak, and back down Pinnacles.

You have described the Laguna Meadows Trail going up and the Pinnacles trail going down, I believe ...

~ edd

[studiocygnet]

Originally Posted by alamoshutterbug

We use these. Well, maybe the next size down. They are designed to strap to the outside of your pack and be hung at the campsite.

I've used the big MSR Dromedary bags in boats going down the Rio Grande, but not strapped to a pack. Do they have a way to hook a hose up to them and drink while you're walking?

[alamoshutterbug]

Not immediately available, but one could probably be rigged up with various couplers. Mine are stored away right now so I can't go see if a camel back fitting will mate to it. When we have used them it was just to transport water, not for use on the hike. We use camel backs for hydration while hiking. You kinda have to overdo it on the strapping to the pack to keep the swaying and settling down, but it's worked well in the past.

[darktiger]

I just got back from spending a few days there. Pretty cool place...