Resizing Photos

[D80]

This is embarassing, but I have tried to upload several photos, but they have been rejected. These are jepgs and I think they may be too large. My image quality is set as fine. Can anyone give me some pointers regarding how these photos can be resized so they can be uploaded or what otherwise the problem might be??

Thanks

[photonewb]

open photoshop and go to file>save for web

then select jpeg, and fix your image size to whatever website you're trying to upload.

[LonestarMan]

Let me offer a different take on this. Besides quality, jpgs are limited to 900 pixels by 900 pixels image size. If you have photoshop, go to Images->Image Size and set your images to something less than 900 px. Be sure to check constrain proportions. Now do a File-> Save as and save it as as a .jpg file. Select Low or Medium quality. This will also leave the EXIF data intact so that others may see it and comment on it if needed. Good luck

[D80]

Thanks!!!

[iCe]

Most of the time it helps the image run it through a multi-pass sharpening routine once you downsize and then save it again. Downsizing murderizes the image quality

[venchka]

Michael,

I tried your multi-pass USM routine on some of my files of scanned negatives. Close, but no cigar. I can see the effect on the screen. My rule of thumb for post-processing scanned negatives: If I can see the effect I don't do it. Obviously, the multi-pass USM trick works for digital and not for me.

Back on topic: When you open the manage attachments here at TPF the JPEG parameters are listed. Work to those parameters.

See my attachment.

[D80]

Thanks very much!

[iCe]

Wayne- I don't always "keep" the 3 pass sharpening section of my action. A lot of the time I end up backing up through the history window and watching the image until I like what I see. Sometimes I completely remove the Smart sharpen portion of the action (with the History window) because the amount of sharpening that I get with Noiseware Pro is sufficient.

You could also use the 3-pass technique on another layer and then lower the opacity of the layer. The bottom line is that when you reduce a large file for posting to the web it loses contrast and sharpness. Some degree of sharpening and contrast boosting is usually needed.

Technically speaking... if you scanned it... and you are working on it in Photoshop... It's digital

[venchka]

Originally Posted by iCe

...
Technically speaking... if you scanned it... and you are working on it in Photoshop... It's digital

I think the grain is rebelling! I'll try the layer thing. Assuming I can figure that out.

Happy New Year!

Wayne

[J Eddington]

Michael, I don't know about Bill, but I have no idea what a mulit-pass (3 pass) sharpening is. Could you explain? Janice

Originally Posted by iCe

Most of the time it helps the image run it through a multi-pass sharpening routine once you downsize and then save it again. Downsizing murderizes the image quality

[D80]

Yes, what is multi-pass sharpening? Thanks

[iCe]

It easiest to do in an action but you can do it one step at a time too.

Make all of your image edits.
Resize for the web

Unsharp Mask with settings:
Amount: 100%
Radius: 0.4 pixels
Threshold: 2

then

Unsharp Mask with settings:
Amount: 125%
Radius: 0.2 pixels
Threshold: 0

then

Unsharp Mask with settings:
Amount: 125%
Radius: 0.2 pixels
Threshold: 0

Sometimes, especially if the image is contrasty or you use noise removal software that sharpens also (Imagenomic Noiseware Pro for instance), the sharpening will be way too much. If that is the case, just go to the History pallet and start backing up through the USM steps until the image looks decent on your screen. Sometimes you'll have to back all of the way out of the image. I would say that 95% of what I sharpen this way works as is and the remaining 5% see some variation from 2 to 0 passes of sharpening.

My action steps (I called it Save L10 JPG, not that it matters what you call it) are:
Flatten
Convert to Adobe RGB (my TIFs are in ProPhoto color space so I have to do this step)
Convert Mode to 8 bit (my TIFs are 16 bit files)

(side note. The two steps above don't do anything if it's already an 8 bit file in Adobe RGB color space so it doesn't hurt to allow them to run)

Save As (Default is L10 JPG. For posting I usually drop it to 5)
USM Step 1
USM Step 2
USM Step 3
Set File Info (this is where I put my copyright info into the EXIF. I have another action that does the same thing in case I decide to back out some of the sharpening. I use it to add copyright info, save, and close.)
Save
Close (this is usually unchecked because I want to review what the USM does to the image however if you want to batch process a bunch of images it needs to be checked)

[venchka]

Got all that from the last time you explained it. I thought the WEB required sRGB? True or False?

[iCe]

Originally Posted by venchka

Got all that from the last time you explained it. I thought the WEB required sRGB? True or False?

My version of CS (2,3,4) doesn't give me the option to convert to sRGB (Image --> Mode from the menu bar). Just Adobe RGB. And no, sRGB isn't required.- There are many, many, many color managed browsers now. I don't know of any that aren't color managed but I guess there might be one out there somewhere.