Precise focus @ max f

[wwong]

For some reason I can't seem to get accurate focus when taking portrait shots with my 80-200mm f2.8 D at 200mm and its widest aperture. It always seem to be just a little off, and enough to cause subject (eg. eyes) to be fuzzy. I realize DOF @ 200mm 2.8 is very shallow.

It is likely because of me (poor skill, eye sight, handheld), but putting the AF point on eye or manual focus are all fruitless...

Any tips for improvement?

[johnastovall]

Practice, Practice, Practice.....

study the exif data to try to see what worked and didn't. Try a tripod.

[Junomech]

That thing weighs a ton. If you're doing portraits with it, attach it to a tripod or stabilize on something.

[utdbear]

Whats your shutter? ISO up to get to at least 1/250, probably if you're new to it you need to be around 1/400th

[srwatters]

Understand also that at the widest aperture, most lenses aren't at their maximum best in terms of sharpness. You'll read the advice to 'stop down' at least one full stop to see better performance. This is true of most lenses with some exceptions for purpose built designs. Give it a try at f/4. You didn't mention which body you are using, but if it's a DX format sensor, then your shutter speed needs to be one click faster than 1/250 to avoid camera shake. A tripod is an excellent suggestion. Nearly all of my headshots are done on a tripod.

Good luck!

[John Godwin]

First question...Do you ever get accurate focus at 200mm f2.8? With that information we should be able to determine whether the problem lies with the lens or your mechanics/style of shooting. Otherwise it is all a guess.

[PIC]

Originally Posted by srwatters

Understand also that at the widest aperture, most lenses aren't at their maximum best in terms of sharpness. You'll read the advice to 'stop down' at least one full stop to see better performance. This is true of most lenses with some exceptions for purpose built designs. Give it a try at f/4. You didn't mention which body you are using, but if it's a DX format sensor, then your shutter speed needs to be one click faster than 1/250 to avoid camera shake. A tripod is an excellent suggestion. Nearly all of my headshots are done on a tripod.

Good luck!

+1.
Besides the all the various tips above ....
Your best Focus and sharpest image is with center sensor and good contrasty light.
It amazes me how 21st Century Digital Frenzy photographers cant get sharp and good focus images then blame the system they use.

$2000 Cameras $1000 Lenes and OOF pictures ... priceless !!

[venchka]

What everyone ^^^^ said. After you anchor the camera and lens and focus on a stationary subject, if that doesn't produce sharp results, try this:

Camera on tripod aimed at floor at 45 degree angle. Nice big wide high contrast taape measure on the floor. Move the tape until you get a nice round number in the center of the viewfinder. Focus. Expose. Look at the RAW file at 100%. Is the number you picked for focus sharp? Is the sharp focus closer or farther away? If so, send camera and lens to Nikon.

[venchka]

Originally Posted by utdbear

... ISO up

A new term for the text books.

[wwong]

>$2000 Cameras $1000 Lenes and OOF pictures ... priceless !!

Exactly my problem, but I am sure I will overcome it with practice.

I looked at past pics and did tests over the weekend - found most blurry pics are f2.8-3.5 or > 1/400 shoulder shots @ 200. f4 on with 1/1000+ all looks good, of course that's under sun light. As soon as I went into shadow/backlight/evening (1.5 hr before sundown), it's f2.8/3.5 @ 1/200 (ISO 200).

Here's the cause and effect:
Slow shutter recorded camera/hand shake = blurry pics. Shallow DOF with large f + slow shutter recorded body sway = OOF pics.

My solution: Up ISO, use tripod/mono, or both.

Will VR helps (not OOF)? The cam+lens is almost 5.5lb (2.5Kg) and I have seen people hand held (70-200 VR) it.

[PIC]

VR or Canon IS will help but not with all types of vibration.
It basicly gives up to 3 stops protection on some simple vibration.
Tripods are much much better and cheaper. Higher shutter / ISO is good.
Optics are best in the midrange.
I know some who only shoot f 5.6 - f 11.
The center AF sensor is most reliable one.
The Canon rep once made a fool of myself saying u must hold your camera as monopod.
Technique helps but ...
The most vibration comes when the mirror hits the camera and holding, no matter how, makes little difference. Combine this with a fast AF, short lag camera, long lens, and OFF happens.

If u cant control the light - too low intensity and contrast ... switch to manual focus.

$2000 cameras - $1000 lenses - OOF ... and those who cant - wont focus manually ... there are quite a few on this forum !!!

[Tom]

Remember also that if you are 15 feet away from your subject at 200mm and F/2.8, your depth of field is 1.4 inches. That is a very small window, and if you focus on the nose, the eye may go OOF.

[doctahjones]

(ha, and then after i posted this i saw you had already responded and these were outdoor. oh well, i'll leave this as a "what i've learned" for others)



i'll take a kick at the dead horse....

i'll assume you're talking about indoor studio type shots.

if you're doing portraits, in general you shouldn't be at your widest aperture (or lowest f#, not max). i actually had this same problem myself. i kept trying to do portraits, and i could never get them to be as sharp as what i saw on here.

then i took a workshop and was given this as a rule of thumb to start with, iso100, 1/100 shutter, and f/5.6. adjust your lighting to get you to those camera settings and go from there. in my experience, the higher the f, the sharper the picture. i usually try to shoot around 1/125 and f/9. also remember the "shutter speed needs to be faster than your focal length" rule when doing handheld shots. this will greatly reduce camera shake. so if you're at 200mm, you need to be at least 1/250 on shutter. the faster the better though.

so the next time i was back at home and tried starting with those settings i was told at the workshop, whammo, -tack sharp- portraits.

now there are times when you want the wide open shutter so you can have that shallow dof in the picture. with that i recommend (like everyone else) to put it on a tripod if you're not 1/400 or higher on shutter, and/or use a shorter (like a 50mm) lens.

[wwong]

>If u cant control the light - too low intensity and contrast ... switch to manual focus.

Ha, agreed too! But MF w/aging eyes does not help in low intensity/contrast situation! (Getting old sucks...) I want my split focusing screen back! That "little green dot" (Nikon in focus) works but too cumbersome.

For DOF calculation and tools, check this out http://www.dofmaster.com

On with my hunt on mono/tripod... Thanks y'all.