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Posts: 285 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Valley, Utah, Utah Real First Name: Carl Camera: Nikon D50 Can Others Edit My Photos: No iTrader Rating: 0 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 |
04-22-2010, 12:02 PM
Basic basic, maybe not needed so much now that anti-vibration technology is becoming common, but still a good r.o.t:
Shutter speed equal to or above the maximum focal length of the lens you are using. 50mm=1/60 sec. 135mm=1/150 sec., 300 mm. 1/320-1/500 sec. and so on.
The subject will govern your shutter speed. People, especially kids will move, and you need to be quick when "the moment" happens. A small auxiliary flash, or the camera's built-in will help with movement and sharpness.
Learn to pan your camera.
Know your camera's the flash sync speed.
Try to anticipate natural lulls in the action. (The ends of a swing's travel, a cheerleader's jump, just before gravity takes over, and she starts back down, etc.)
This does not apply to point and shoot cameras. Although manufacturers are working on it, they still haven't reduced the shutter lag acceptably, imo. Despite what you do, kids today see the light, and they will move. You will always be somewhere behind the curve. Arrrrgggghhh!!! Don't ask!
With my media credential at the track, I can get close enough to the cars to use a flash, but won't, for obvious reasons; one being a driver does not need to have his concentration disturbed at 90 mph going into a turn. Just not done, old boy! But, I find 1/250sec. to 1/400sec. will give me good sharpness and some wheel movement, so the car doesn't look like a butterfly pinned to a board.
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That old black Nikon has me in its spell;
That old black Nikon that shoots so well...
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