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Originally Posted by jnjphotography BTW, what is the best way to deter noise? Increase ISO and stand closer to the subject? |
1. Use as low an ISO as possible and still properly expose. Most digitals go to ISO 200 or 100. High ISO's (over 1600) start to become problematic...
2. Subject distance is only an issue when using flash, and getting them properly exposed. It is actually the distance between the flash and the subject that is the issue.
3. Noise Ninja (and there are others) is a great software tool for processing a file to reduce the noise in the image. But it won't make up much for an under exposed image.
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Originally Posted by jnjphotography The normal stofen on the SB800 works ok but not great. I was thinking about getting the Gary Fong Lightsphere. Any thoughts and opinions? |
My personal opinion is the GFL is a slight improvement, perhaps, but not worth the hassle. Before afixing the stofen to the SB800, pull out the bounce card. You will get more light forward and not waste alot on a back wall that is usually either too far a way to help, or the wrong color.
For a dramatically bigger improvement, I also use a second flash (yes, expensive and a hassle) mounted on a stand @ 30 degrees to my left with a modest 1x1-1/2 foot softbox on it. It gets TTL, and the camera flash (on a flash bracket with the stofen/bounce card) gets TTL -.07. You must practice with the flashes master/slaves positioning so they "see" each other, otherwise use
Radio Poppers to drive the flash.
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Originally Posted by jnjphotography I will be mostly shooting in combination of M and A. Setting on Flash is ITTL since I hardly know how to use this darn thing lol. |
Cool.