Shooting cycling and runningThis is a discussion on Shooting cycling and running within the Photo Tips forums, part of the Photography Information category; I have been asked to show up December 10 and shoot at a benefit event for a triathlete who was ...
(#1)
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Posts: 402 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tyler, TX, Texas Real First Name: Todd Camera: Nikon D3 Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 4 LIKES Received: 12 LIKES Given: 6 | Shooting cycling and running -
11-28-2011, 11:34 PM
I have been asked to show up December 10 and shoot at a benefit event for a triathlete who was hit by a car while cycling. They are doing a "brick" wich includes running and cycling. I have never shot sports at all before as I usually do weddings but I hear some aspects of those corss over.
Any tips or advise on this type of photography would be greatly appreciated. I am going to do more research, of course, to get some ideas, but knowledge from photographers who are more familiar with this type of shooting should be very beneficial.
I am assuming I have decent enough equipment. I shoot Nikon. My longest lense is a 70-200mm f/2.8 and I also have a 28-70mm f/2.8. Along with those zooms I have a 50mm f/1.4 and an 85 f/1.4 and a 105mm macro but I can't really see that being useful for action, however maybe for some cool still shots of the bikes or something at some point. I don't know. I have a pair of Nikon D3 bodies also, so I have some ISO range and decent shutter speed if needed.
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Posts: 5,701 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Houston, Texas Real First Name: Tom Camera: GoPro2 Can Others Edit My Photos: No iTrader Rating: 7 LIKES Received: 425 LIKES Given: 296 |
11-28-2011, 11:48 PM
I would probably use a 70-200mm and have your focusing in servo mode, rather than one shot. | | | |
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11-29-2011, 12:05 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom I would probably use a 70-200mm and have your focusing in servo mode, rather than one shot. | Awesome! Very comfortable in that setup! That sounds like how I usually shoot at weddings. Favorite lens, servo mode. Watch, wait and click.
Thanks! | | | |
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11-29-2011, 12:08 AM
I concur with Tom.
I would add that using the 24-70mm at the race start can be useful to capture a more encompassing view of everyone if it's not staggered. So I would bring both of these lenses.
Good luck!
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11-29-2011, 12:10 AM
Yeah, exactly. I would probably use single shot instead of burst. But that is just me. Use what you are comfortable with. Single shot will cut down on the dupes and if you already are comfortable with Servo and the 70-200 you should be good.
Do you use back button focus? That will help, too. | | | |
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11-29-2011, 04:44 AM
Try to take photos when he is on the aerobars (not the base bars - unless he's turning), and use a slow shutter speed with some pan to make it look like he's going fast. Bikes, like propeller aircraft, tend to look frozen in space if shot with a fast shutter speed.
Here's a gallery of bike images that might give you some inspiration: Ironman Wisconsin Pro Race - Ali Engin Photography | | | |
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Posts: 3,646 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, Texas Real First Name: Ken Camera: Nikon Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 29 LIKES Received: 193 LIKES Given: 250 |
11-29-2011, 07:24 AM
Moved thread from the Sports Showcase section to Photo Tips. | | | |
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11-29-2011, 09:09 AM
Kind of unrelated, but with the link that Daniel posted, the really low, wide angle shots are really neat. Granted, they really only worked because there were some pretty nice and interesting clouds in the sky, but wide might be useful for some more "artistic" or different type shots.
Good luck with the shooting. Oh, and if you want to try panning shots, practice early (maybe even with cars in traffic if you have nothing else to shoot). That's hard to do!
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Posts: 32 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Houston, Texas Real First Name: John Ojeda Camera: Nikon D50 Can Others Edit My Photos: No iTrader Rating: 0 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 | Daniel -
12-01-2011, 06:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Bates Try to take photos when he is on the aerobars (not the base bars - unless he's turning), and use a slow shutter speed with some pan to make it look like he's going fast. Bikes, like propeller aircraft, tend to look frozen in space if shot with a fast shutter speed.
Here's a gallery of bike images that might give you some inspiration: Ironman Wisconsin Pro Race - Ali Engin Photography | Daniel, what kinda setting are you using on the bike shots with the clouds winding? Great job. | | | |
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12-01-2011, 06:46 PM
I'll add, the closer you are to the object, you'll have to be quick to pan with your subject, if you're further away, your pan will be slower.
This was with the 70-200
24-70 sitting between turns 3 and 4 just off the tarmac about 3 ft  | | | |
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12-01-2011, 10:01 PM
With your wedding background, spotting emotion will not be a problem.
On the action side: A (or M if constant light), f/2.8-4, ~1/60 & 500+ (depends on pan/distance/direction/speed), VR off, AF-C, back AF-ON, 21pts, CL/H (I do 3-5fps, occasional single). One body 70-200, and 28-70 on the other will cover all. Personally, I'll add 1.4x TC to the 70-200, since I love compression. Aim, AF-ON, half-press, follow, click (click-click..)
Scout the route and pick your spots, you may need to run from spot to spot to cover different locations/legs of the event. Bike should be first, then running, then award. Depends on # of participants, generally they start in batches.
PS: Obviously plenty of cards. Shooting at low(er) ISO at high speed for a change! Good luck!
Last edited by wwong; 12-01-2011 at 10:18 PM..
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12-02-2011, 03:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerjohno Daniel, what kinda setting are you using on the bike shots with the clouds winding? Great job. | John, I only wish those were my shots!  They're by Ali Engin of Ali Engin Photography. I asked him what focal length he was using, and he said it was 10mm on a 1.6 crop (I'm guessing the 10-22 on EF-S). | | | |
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12-02-2011, 10:39 AM
I am trying to get my shots to not look so still. 75-300 I a trying different settings and looking for suggestions. Thank | | | |
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12-13-2011, 07:26 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerjohno I am trying to get my shots to not look so still. 75-300 I a trying different settings and looking for suggestions. Thank | I had quite a few "frozen" still-looking shots. Lots of sun made it easy to lean the direction of fast shutter speed and there are some shots where it looks like the bikers are sitting still balancing for the photo. Then I slowed the shutter and discovered the difficulty of panning and got very few decent shots. I didn't get the opportunity to do any panning practice leading up to the day so I was trying to get it down at the event.
There were not as many participants as I was thinking, so not a ton of shots able to be made as the pack passed... And they were all in a pack and never spread out. :/
Too bad it is getting deep enough into winter that these are not happening until the spring because I would like to do a few more and work on everything. | | | |
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12-13-2011, 07:29 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenJulio I'll add, the closer you are to the object, you'll have to be quick to pan with your subject, if you're further away, your pan will be slower.
This was with the 70-200
24-70 sitting between turns 3 and 4 just off the tarmac about 3 ft  | I shot almost exclusively with the 70-200. Wish I had a longer lens to get more close-ups as they approached. | | | | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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