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Gymnastic photos - what settings?

This is a discussion on Gymnastic photos - what settings? within the Photo Tips forums, part of the Photography Information category; I recently purchased a new Canon 20D with a 70-200 2.8 (no image stablizer). The problem is my son competes ...

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Gymnastic photos - what settings? - 03-13-2006, 08:42 PM


I recently purchased a new Canon 20D with a 70-200 2.8 (no image stablizer).
The problem is my son competes in gymnastics in gyms and convention centers with low to very low lighting. With gymnastics comes a lot of fast movements. Any photos with motion comes out a blur. Photos of gymnast in a near still position are slightly blury. The only photos that come out clear are ones that are still portriats within 20 feet. I need to be able to take action photos across the gym with no blur. Since I am new to photography I do not know how to adjust the 20D camera settings to take low light action photos that are good enough to keep. Can someone give me directions on how to set the camera and lens up?
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03-13-2006, 08:55 PM


Janetg is our resident gymnastics photog. Hopefully she'll see this and give you some good advice.

In the meantime, you'll definitely want to shoot wide open at f/2.8. Set your ISO to 1600, possibly even Hi. If you're new to photography, I'd recommend setting the camera to Aperature Priority and see what shutter speed it comes back with. I'd think you'd need to get your shutter speed to 1/500 if at all possible. If you can't get it high enough with the low light, shoot in RAW and set your exposure compensation to underexpose the shot by about 1/2 stop and then bump it back up when you convert to TIFF or JPEG. Use the center focus point only and set the camera to AI Servo mode. Shooting on a monopod also helps me a lot, because I have a hard time keeping larger lenses from shaking.

Hope that helps!

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03-13-2006, 08:58 PM


Hey Rick good to see you finally joined...

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03-13-2006, 09:12 PM


The way that I would approach this shoot is to use a tripod in the stands, if allowed, otherwise a mono pod. Set the camera at 1600 asa, if you have too go to 3200 but try to stay away from that noisier setting. Frame your shots well above your normal area of shooting, if it is say the balance beam shoot twice the height of the girl so from the floor to say 15 ft or so above the floor so as the girl say does a flip on the beam her feet would not be cut out of the shot-remember you have enough pixels that you can crop down your shot. Also sometimes a larger area will pull in a bit more light since the background usually isn't pitch black.

I also would shoot at a max speed of 1/250 second and probably would try to capture the sport at 1/500th or faster, yeah it is low light but you have to deal with it. You may end up shooting some shots underexposed by a stop but may be able to save the RAW files in post with a little tweaking.

Also you will have to keep that lense wide open at 2.8.

Also shoot in RAW and adjust your exposures in PS or some other post processing program.

Good luck!
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03-13-2006, 10:25 PM


ok,i don't mean to step on anyone's toes here, but shooting raw in gymnastics is not an option. unless you have a mark II and the fastest buffer around, it'll kill you. that and the size. unless you have unlimited storage options, you'll soon run out of cards.

the other advice has been great - but, set your camera on manual - start at 250, iso 800, see what you get. if you are close, bump the exposure by a couple of stops. if not, iso 1600 and see what that looks like. i would never go behind 1600 due to noise. 250 on the shutter is probably the minimum for the action part of gymnastics, if you are just doing posey type stuff, you can get away with 125-180. (i'm not super familiar with the 20d).

the thing to doing gymnastics photography - is TIMING - you can't just fire off shots randomly. you have to learn to anticipate the movement. are you shooting at GBC? i've done them there, and it's not that hard to get some good shots with the proper set up. you can PM me and we could talk on the phone...

janetg

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03-22-2006, 07:59 AM


I use an 85 mm 1.8 (when possible) - shoot on raw with a 20D - I can fix all kinds of lighting problems with raw. (JPEG is fine but I like the ability to slightly underexpose for a lower ISO and more shutter speed. Raw allows me to to batch correct.) I try to keep it at ISO 400-800, but it is not always possible, especially with the longer, slower lenses. Timing is everything. Fortunately, I have a daughter who is a gymnastics whiz and coach and over the years she has lectured me enough that I can anticipate the moves. I still can't name them, so she is still lecturing. I prefer the aperature preferred setting mode so that I can control the shutter speeds. The 85mm is more functional than my 70-200 2.8
when working with low light and fast action. I know it is considered a "portrait" lens, but it works really well for gymnastics and basketball.

Donna
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03-22-2006, 08:06 PM


Ways to freeze action:
Fast shutter speed;
Move camera in the direction of the gymnast's motion so relative motion between the two is reduced(relative motion is also reduced in movement coming toward you in comparison to movement left to right);
Wait for the gymnast to be still, such as when going up turns into going down or at the beginning or end of a routine;
Immobilize the camera with monopod, pull-up cord(2 loops around a length of light rope, foot goes through one loop, other loop around camera or attached to camera via tripod socket screw with a hook on the end, then pull taut), or brace against wall or column;
Flash, which may not be allowed, but if it is, play around with the sync options for interesting blurs and controlling backgrounds.

You may need to use a shorter than optimum lens that is faster, thereby allowing faster shutter speeds, and enlarge it more for the print.

Don't rule out doing the opposite of these also to emphasize the motion. After all, motion is the essence of what you see. Slow shutter speeds, for example not only show motion, but allow you to separate the gymnast from a cluttered, unmoving background.

If motion is on a fixed track(balance beam) and you can immobilize your camera, double triple, etc. exposures might capture the subject in a stroboscopic manner.

Shoot a color card.

If you learn how the movements are judged, you will know better how to pick out the important parts of moves.

Bill
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03-22-2006, 09:44 PM


just thought i'd share a few...since i do love gym photography...

janetg
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03-22-2006, 09:50 PM


ah, what the heck...two more...

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03-22-2006, 09:59 PM


hey janet who's on P's...

Weird seeing the boys on the web site......

How funny.

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03-22-2006, 10:02 PM


Rick,
I have a son who is a level 7 gymnast and like janet said you have to get to know the routines and know when to take the shot. I have that lens and there are not many meets from the stand where you can get a great shot unless they are still on the apparatus.....alot of Janets stuff is at close range and in great light. most gyms are low light and a long way from t he stands.

I have got some great shots at WOGA and at the Capital meets, not many others. I shoot at 1600 and use a noiseware. but with the 20D you should be fine with the noise.

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03-22-2006, 10:03 PM


well, the guy did say his son was in gym...

those were from last december, at the cypress xmas show..(the last two)

janetg

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03-22-2006, 10:06 PM


Rick I forgot to ask..

What level is your son and what gym.....Janet and I are at the same gym, well until janets daughters leaves for college.......

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03-22-2006, 10:08 PM


I was trying to see who was on P-bars, great shots BTW........

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03-22-2006, 10:33 PM


you think you've had crappy lighting? haha, i've seen it all - good and bad. here are a couple of before and after -

i've got about 10,000 photos from a recent meet that had those lights that cyle, green, red...no way am i correcting them though...

janetg
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