Color calibration - LCD monitor

[boomerd35]

Need some help here:

I just purchased the Spyder2PRO from Detonate here on the forum (Thanks Jim). I tried it out last time, and I just don't have confidence that I did it right. First off, I have a low level Samsung LCD monitor, which has contrast, brightness, and color sliders (RGB). But when I run the calibration, the software says to leave most of the settings at factory default for LCD monitors. On the color adjustment, the software warns that you can adjust the colors on LCD, but the factory settings probably work best since on many LCD monitors, the RGB adjustment produces unacceptable results. I tried the color adjustments, and just like it said, unacceptable results. The only thing I ended up adjusting was the contrast. So how is that calibrating the monitor? Does anybody have some experience they can share? After calibration, there is a before/after button to see the effects of the calibration,but when I was finished, both looked exactly the same. However, there is definitely a difference in the display now. I"m just not sure it's correct. The reds and oranges look super saturated, and everything looks too dark.

Sorry for the long post

Thanks,

Troy T.

[boomerd35]

I didn't calibrate in a dimly lit room because the instructions said to calibrate in the same conditions you normally work in. Maybe I should have shielded the screen from the overhead light like the instructions recommended (just a regular light in the middle of the ceiling). Also, the colorimeter wouldn't stay exactly flush. Maybe that was part of my problem too. I'll try again tonight.

Thanks,

Troy T.

Originally Posted by Detonate

I wish I knew how exactly it worked, but it's just modifying the profile that Windows uses in order to display colors correctly.

Did you calibrate the monitor in a dimly lit room? Did you make sure the colorimeter was flush on the LCD? I know on my old monitor, I had to tilt my monitor back in order to get the thing to have a nice fit.

When calibrating my monitor, I did it with the facotry settings that it recommends, and everything looks great to me.

Now on my old monitor I could never get good black levels on it, reguardless of calibration. It just wasn't capable of displaying all the low ends.

Not sure what else I can contribute here.... I know there are a few others with a Spyder.

[CobyPhoto]

Hey Troy,

I am going to share a few things about monitor calibration and LCD's that I have had to deal with in my studio. I have always prefered the CRT over LCD's. Now that CRT's are no longer manufactured, I am forced to find a quality LCD that is capable of being calibrated. No very inexpensive I am afraid.

If you have a lower end LCD, problem is with the LCD and not the Calibration software. Lower end LCD's are just not capable of being calibrated. To sucessfully calibrate an LCD and use it as a reference monitor for printing, you have to have a level II LCD, Otherwise you should just adjust it closely as possible and go for it.

I went to a seminar not long ago, where digital work flow and total workflow calibration was the topic, sponspred by my lab. The host was Jim Tweedie of ShootSmarter U. I had the opportunity to corner him and talk with him about an hour and a half about several color correction and calibration issues in my studio and dealing with monitors etc.

Alot of the questions I had were answered in the seminar and demonstrated effectively enough that I could understand the validity of the information that Tweedie was providing. Like, lining up monitors with brand-name covered and comparing them...you could only see a screen, not a brand. Kinda surprising when you saw the results of that test!

Bottom line is, if you want to calibrate an LCD, you have to buy a LEVEL II LCD:

Here is a Section copied from the info Tweedie provides on Monitors and Calibration:
"We need to classify the current crop of monitors into 3 different types of technology, two that work for photo applications and one that doesn't.

Level ONE LCD: These are the type of LCD screens found on all laptops, the "typical" LCD monitors you get from Best Buy, Dell, and (unfortunately) Apple too. This technology does not offer up the ability to present excellent screen to print match and we have to report that none of the level one LCDs are up to the standards of critical color for professional photographers. You CAN profile these monitors and it WILL greatly improve their accuracy. But, they just do not have the ability to present accurate color, tone and contrast to make professional decisions on - not even the expensive and really cool Apple displays. The lowest cost CRT on our list will offer greater screen to print match than even the most expensive level one LCD. Sorry, I wish it were not true too.

Level TWO LCD: This is the new breed of LCD that's usually distinguished by the "10 bit" or greater gamma processing. This is the buzz word that let's you know it's the level two technology and that the manufacturer is implying that it is significantly more accurate than their pervious screens. Most manufacturers downplay this difference between level one and level two so it does not hurt their level one sales because that's the core of their sales. We're OK with that, and completely understand, but we want the ShootSmarter folks to be up to speed on the real deal.
The good news is that the L2 LCD's range from good to fabulous - all are worthy of excellent to superb screen to print match and are a good replacement for the vanishing CRTs we love so much.
The bad news is the price. Those of you who have been to ShootSmarter University or have seen the PWF2 touring program know that we think the Eizo ColorEdge line is the cheese and believe they are well worth the hefty price tag.
Let's also mention the LaCie 3 series which is made up of the 319 (19 inch) and 321 (21 inch) L2 screens - none of their others qualify in our opinion. We think these monitors are pretty good for an accurate screen to print match.

CRT's: This is crazy but the lowest cost of all monitor groups is the CRT line, and they are also among the most cost effective. We strongly suggest that you pester your local dealer to see if they have any of the monitors on our list, then search the web, scour eBay, anything you can think of to buy a new or refurb CRT from our list. This is the way to get great color without spending a lot of money."


You can find the entire article at ShootSmarter.com

I still use a CRT to reference my prints to the lab. It has about 6 months life left then I will be investing in one of the Level II LCD's to replace it. Good thing about LCD's thou, they have about 3 - 4 times the life of a CRT (About a year- for good color calibration).

Once you get your monitor calibrated to what you think looks best, print a reference photo and compare it to the monitor. Make any corrections to your monitor and try again. You should be able to get it pretty close to what you need.

Color management is a huge issue in a studio and from the start of the work flow till then end. It isn't any easy one either. It took me about a month and 4 tries to get my monitors calibrated and on the same color as my lab.

CJ