Catch Light?

[Tracy Hicks]

I have read and read and still cant get the big catch light in my models eyes. Let me tell you what I think the problem is and you all can throw in your thoughts.

I have a Novatron light set that even on the 250 setting is pretty bright so I end up moving it back aways. If there is a way to cut that light way down and get it close to my model will that help? Now the question is how do I cut that light down? I'd love to cut it by 1/4th. I'm guessing there are filters that do that? I'd love to get that light way down so I can get to f2.8 also... I always end up shooting f8

Thx T

[CaptainTom]

Mr first question is.. what's wrong with F8? 2.8 will give you such a shallow DOF you might not like the results.

Are you shooting the lights directly at the subject? Are you using some diffusion such as an umbrella, soft box, etc.?

If you are using some sort of diffusion, and still are too hot, the choices are to either move the lights away, which will not give you the large catch lights you are looking for, turn off the modeling lights, which will help the subjects pupils open, use an ND filter on the lens, so you can use the bigger aperture with the lights up close.

To get big catch lights: The light source must be bigger. The light source should be close to subject. The eyes need to be wide open and pupils open as much as possible.

[Duffy Pratt]

I haven't done anything with lights for years, and when I did, it was for shooting movies. But I know there are (or were) Neutral Density gels you can use to cut down the intensity of lights. To cut from f/8 to f/2.8 you would need an ND gel with a 3 stop factor, which was a pretty thick gel, but not totally unreasonable.

I'm also not sure how you can shine big lights at close range into peoples eyes and expect the pupils to be as wide as possible. Maybe that's what drugs are for???

Duffy

[CaptainTom]

We're not referring to movie "hot lights" that are on all the time. We use strobes in most of our photography since we are capturing a single frame, as opposed to a movie camera.
Many strobes have modeling lights to help the photographer visualize the results. When these modeling lights are on, it makes the pupils constrict. If you turn off the modeling lights, the pupils wil dilate to gather more light. The flash duration is so short that the pupil cannot constrict before the shot is taken. It is infinitely easier to put a filter on the camera lens, than to try to filter the strobes......

Hope that is clear ?? I do not endorse the use of drugs to widen the eyes, although it is an approach that I hadn't thought about. LOL

[prairiefire]

Variables to get less light on the subject:
1. Use modifiers like barn doors. This cuts the amount of the light reaching the subject.
2. Feather the lights.
3. Move them back -- but this will not only change the intensity of the light (loss of f stop proportional amount of feet move back -- go from 4' back to 5.6, lose one stop etc) but also it changes the quality of the light. Closer up softer light broader shadow line. Back farther, harder light, more defined shadow line.
4. Power on light heads -- do your heads allow you to adjust up and down one stop (be careful with this, Novatron requires at least one head in full power mode, with power pack driven lights.)

I've got an older, very reliable set of Novatron lights. I picked up barn doors off ebay. I use both umbrellas and diffusion panels/scrims. Some combination of he above usually lets me get what I want.

sjh

[Duffy Pratt]

Yeah, it occured to me that strobes would not have the constricting effect on the eyes that movie lights do. And I suppose if the catch light into the person's eye is not strong enough, then a strobe flash won't do much (or any) harm.

If you want to bring down the intensity of all the lights, then of course it would be simpler to filter then lens. But if the idea is to bring down the one light, so you can keep it close to the subject, than an ND gel might be the way to go.

I'm curious. Aren't there situations where its simpler just to light a set with hot lights, and then continuously shoot. Or do most still photographers prefer strobes in these situations as well?

Duffy

[Tracy Hicks]

Thanks for all the tips.... I am using umbrellas but have soft boxes also. I've not heard of a ND filter that goes on the camera... I'll go try to find one this week. Turning off the modeling lights is I good idea also.

Oh yeah on the 2.8... its not that I want to shoot all the time like that but I would like to have it availible for a certain look.

I'll post some pics when I get set up. -Tracy