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Striking a balance (aperture vs shutter vs iso)

This is a discussion on Striking a balance (aperture vs shutter vs iso) within the Photo Tips forums, part of the Photography Information category; Goal: Relative great sharpness throughout the frame in my formal shots I recently shot my first set of formals in ...

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Striking a balance (aperture vs shutter vs iso) - 08-23-2006, 09:38 PM


Goal: Relative great sharpness throughout the frame in my formal shots

I recently shot my first set of formals in a hotel where the lighting wasn't the best. I was using a 30D with a 580EX on the hot shoe using a rental 17-35 2.8L. The specs on most of my shots were as follows:

ISO: 500
Tx (priority): 1/80
Ax: 2.8
Focal length between 17-35mm
Number of subjects: 4-15

Posing obviously plays a huge role in sharpness particularly in poor lighting situations, and my posing needs work, though I thought it wasn't horrible. Based on the specs I listed above, the one that stands out the most is my aperture value. While I would like and need a smaller aperture to increase my DOF, doing so would require either slowing my shutter or increasing my ISO. It seems I'm having to choose between noise, uniform sharpness (either because of DOF or camera shake). I fear like it's a no-win situation based on my current knowledge and experience, but I know the results I desire are achievable, hence my post here.

Starting with my shooting specs (listed above), can anyone offer advice on how to improve my formals. Thanks.

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08-23-2006, 10:06 PM


A simple tip... Use a tripod.

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08-23-2006, 10:16 PM


Your flash should compensate for your manual settings (sometimes resulting in that "Flash" look that I detest). However, on the 30D... Do not worry about cranking up the ISO much more than 500. ISO noise shows more when underexposed than properly. Also, if these are used for print, you'll rarely see any ISO noise on a "normal" size print. I would suggest trying out a little lower shutter (the flash should freeze motion), ISOs even as high as 1600 and F-stop of at least 5.6 depending on the depth of your group shot. May need to be 8 depending. If you are bouncing flash (which I always suggest if possible) you may want to consider an additonal off camera light source as well.

Tripod suggestion is a must for formals.

Hope this helps,

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08-23-2006, 10:49 PM


A tripod will take care of the camera shake, as Pete recommended.

If you stop down, your background will go darker, unless you are posing right against a wall, or you bring up the background light with some more flashes or hot lights, or you use a slower shutter. Your subject will also need more light, as the flash is affected by f/stops.

If you use a slower shutter, you brighten the background, unless it is right next to the subjects and mainly lit by the flash, which is often often not too pleasing unless you get your key light way up to push the shadows way down. The subjects are getting much higher percentage of their light from the flash and will not be affected much at all by the slower speed, which really just affects the ambient light.

Hotel is often a synonym for low lighting. One of the great things about digital is you can test like crazy for free to find good working combinations.
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08-24-2006, 09:13 AM


Bump up that ISO and invest in noise ninja. The tripod is also an excellent suggestion - especially if you are standing around in one place just taking portraits of people.

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08-25-2006, 03:06 AM


When shooting formals, I think the first thing to figure out is depth of field you'll need..usually at f5.6 or so as Andrew suggested. I then usually set the shutter speed to around 1/40 or so, and then use the lowest ISO I can get away with while still having ambient light show through. Of camera lighting for formals is a must. I use at least 2 580ex flashes if not 3.

I do agree on the tripod helping...but I tend to have a problem shooting with a tripod so I depend on my 24-105/f4 IS to help me out. Also, if possible, try to shoot them close to 50mm or so to prevent distortion if using FF. with the crop factor cameras, you are normally ok with anything over 24mm or so.

Another thing that I try to do is to decide whether I will try and balance my flashes with the tungsten light normally prevalent. Sometimes, I do like the yellow background, but if you want to, you can put something that warms the light from the flash so you can white balance with the ambient.

Hope that helps.

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