Focus Points

[robh1920]

I was out the other day taking pictures in the hill country and had some turkeys jump and run. I shot 4 frames but the turkeys were all blurred. I had all nine focus points on and it was focusing on everything but the turkeys. My Iso was set at 100 and my Ap was at 7-8 with a speed of 650 (i think). Now I know I could have had my center focus point on and it would have worked for this photo but my question is this. Do you normally just have the center focus point turned on or all of them? Any advice would be helpful.

I was using a Rebel XTI

[kenw]

personally I've never used the all-points setting. I just used the one single one I needed. Of course, a bunch of wild turkeys haven't been in my viewfinder so I can't say much about that particular situation, but so far that all-points option hasn't seemed a need.

[iCe]

I typically use the center focus for wildlife and focus on their eye... if I can.

[JohnT]

I use only the center focus point on both my XT and 30D.

[Daniel Bates]

I use center-point unless I absolutely HAVE to use a side point, and then I pick it manually. I did the same when I had 45 to work with.

The center point is just better...

[Patti Edens]

Pretty much ditto what others have said.

For Wildlife: 90% of the time I use center point and focus as near the eye as I can. If the critter isn't moving a lot, I'll switch to a left or right focus point if needed to improve the composition.

For Landscapes: Sometime what I do is determine the hyperfocal distance for the lens I'm using and using the center focus point, I focus on something at the distance I want for whatever I want in focus from front to back. Then I turn autofocus off, compose and shoot. This is probably not the best way to do this. Sometimes I forget to turn it back on and I'm not trained to listen for the AF beep, so I'll take a shot or two without AF before I realize it's not on. Not good.

But, the only alternative I know (which would be to push the button part way to focus on the distance I want focused on and then hold it down to lock in the focus while I recompose and shoot) will usually result in an improper exposure. I don't ever carry my handheld light meter anymore.

Patti

[Jeff_Green]

Originally Posted by Patti Edens

But, the only alternative I know (which would be to push the button part way to focus on the distance I want focused on and then hold it down to lock in the focus while I recompose and shoot) will usually result in an improper exposure.

Patti

Thanks, Patti! This is something that I have always overlooked and I don't know why! That has been how I do the majority of my shooting... center focus, lock it and move camera to compose. It never crossed my mind that I could be messing up the exposure due to change in lighting.

Thanks again!
Jeff

[iCe]

You can use Custom Function 4 and separate the focus function (moves to the *) from the shutter button.

[JohnT]

Originally Posted by Patti Edens

But, the only alternative I know (which would be to push the button part way to focus on the distance I want focused on and then hold it down to lock in the focus while I recompose and shoot) will usually result in an improper exposure. I don't ever carry my hand held light meter anymore.

Patti

I thought the exposure was locked right along with the focus. I guess that would work only in Manual mode?

[iCe]

It does. That's why I switched to CF 4

[JohnT]

Originally Posted by iCe

It does. That's why I switched to CF 4

I'll try that. Thanks.

[iCe]

:o) Some people love it. Some hate it. I used to have a personal function setup with and without CF4 but I never used non-CF4. I set my focus to continuous too. If I need continuous, I hold the * button down. If I don't I touch the *, lock on to what I am shooting, and never touch it again. The shutter button does two things now. Lock the exposure and trip the shutter. In fact, you can lock the exposure at one location and then swing to another with the button 1/2 depressed, recompose, and shoot. It's very versatile

[Russell]

If it is fast moving wildlife that fills the fram, I suggest that you always use the wide area focusing where all of the points are lit.

This may sound crazy but when the wildlife is just milling around, use manual focus. You'll get a lot more images focused correctly and composed right than to force your whole composition to one focus point.

Thanks,

RG

[Gordon]

I pretty much always select the focus point to be over the thing I want to focus on. I've got pretty adept at changing focus point without taking my eye away from the camera. The 1D also has a quick 'jump to center focus spot' button that I use as well. Almost never (actually, I think I'll just say never) use the all active mode. I'm greatly helped by being able to pick from the 45 focus points that are on the 1DII. My D60 (with 3 focus points) used to drive me mad.

I use the * on the back of the camera to focus and the shutter button to shoot, as some others have mentioned. It took a bit of time to get used to, but I cannot stand having focus and shutter tied together any more.

The main thing that it confuses is if you ever let someone else shoot with your camera...

[Patti Edens]

Originally Posted by JohnT

I thought the exposure was locked right along with the focus. I guess that would work only in Manual mode?

As Michael pointed out, it does. But when you recompose you might have more of the sky (or less) in the frame and the exposure should be different. But it isn't because it's locked in.

I've never messed with CF4, but I might give it a try too!

Thanks,
Patti