What am I doing wrong?

[Roy]

Camera Shake? How do I take a shot like this and keep it in focus?




Make - Canon
Model - Canon EOS 20D
Orientation - Top left
XResolution - 72
YResolution - 72
ResolutionUnit - Inch
Software - Adobe Photoshop 7.0
DateTime - 2005:05:17 21:58:14
YCbCrPositioning - Co-Sited
ExifOffset - 212
ExposureTime - 1/50 seconds
FNumber - 5.60
ExposureProgram - Action program
ISOSpeedRatings - 400
ExifVersion - 0221
DateTimeOriginal - 2005:05:17 20:18:34
DateTimeDigitized - 2005:05:17 20:18:34
ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr
ShutterSpeedValue - 1/50 seconds
ApertureValue - F 5.60
ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
MeteringMode - Multi-segment
Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode
FocalLength - 55 mm
UserComment -
FlashPixVersion - 0100
ColorSpace - sRGB
ExifImageWidth - 800
ExifImageHeight - 533
FocalPlaneXResolution - 3959.32
FocalPlaneYResolution - 3959.32
FocalPlaneResolutionUnit - Inch
CustomRendered - Normal process
ExposureMode - Auto
WhiteBalance - Auto
SceneCaptureType - Standard



Make - Canon
Model - Canon EOS 20D
Orientation - Top left
XResolution - 72
YResolution - 72
ResolutionUnit - Inch
Software - Adobe Photoshop 7.0
DateTime - 2005:05:17 21:47:58
YCbCrPositioning - Co-Sited
ExifOffset - 212
ExposureTime - 1/80 seconds
FNumber - 5.60
ExposureProgram - Action program
ISOSpeedRatings - 400
ExifVersion - 0221
DateTimeOriginal - 2005:05:17 20:18:35
DateTimeDigitized - 2005:05:17 20:18:35
ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr
ShutterSpeedValue - 1/80 seconds
ApertureValue - F 5.60
ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
MeteringMode - Multi-segment
Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode
FocalLength - 55 mm
UserComment -
FlashPixVersion - 0100
ColorSpace - sRGB
ExifImageWidth - 800
ExifImageHeight - 571
FocalPlaneXResolution - 3959.32
FocalPlaneYResolution - 3959.32
FocalPlaneResolutionUnit - Inch
CustomRendered - Normal process
ExposureMode - Auto
WhiteBalance - Auto
SceneCaptureType - Standard

:?: Help

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[srwatters]

Faster shutter.

1/50 @ 50mm is just at the 1/focal length for hand holding, but that is for a still object. If you want to stop motion, I'd try at 1/500 or faster depending on how fast the subject is moving. You can even try panning at that speed to help reduce the relative speed of the subject. Do you have a faster lens? Opening up the aperature will get you more light so you can raise the shutter speed.

[Roy]

Thank you,

These were taken with a kit lens at sunset. The lens is Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55 mm 1:3.5-5.6. The only other lenes I have are Canon Zoom LensEF 20-80mm 1:3.5-5.6 and Canon Zoom LensEF 75-300mm 1:4-5.6. So until I can get a faster lens, I need to shoot these in a brighter light? I could also go into a manual or "creative" mode and increase sutter speed. I used an auto mode for sports on these. It sounds like all my lenses are too slow for low light conditions and fast action. Are they?

[dab94]

Try bumping up your ISO.
You may see increased noise, but that can be remedied with software such as Noise Ninja.

Good luck!

[srwatters]

Originally Posted by Roy

Thank you,

These were taken with a kit lens at sunset. The lens is Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55 mm 1:3.5-5.6. The only other lenes I have are Canon Zoom LensEF 20-80mm 1:3.5-5.6 and Canon Zoom LensEF 75-300mm 1:4-5.6. So until I can get a faster lens, I need to shoot these in a brighter light? I could also go into a manual or "creative" mode and increase sutter speed. I used an auto mode for sports on these. It sounds like all my lenses are too slow for low light conditions and fast action. Are they?

I personally use only aperture priority or full manual mode when using my Nikon D70. The program modes are really turning your DSLR into a point and shoot. When I shoot my daughters soccer games, I almost always use A mode and look for a minimum shutter speed at 1/500 or greater. In low light you don't have much choice but to crank the ISO up or use a flash. Even at f/2.8 you won't get enough light to raise the shutter speed from 1/50 to 1/500 if you were at f/5.6. If you don't need the telephoto length lens, look at the inexpensive 50mm f/1.8. Both Canon and Nikon have those under $100.

Good luck!

[Roy]

Thanks again. I'll experiment with the aperture priority and manual modes.
It's not like I'm waisting film so that's good. I'll get one of those 50 mm 1.8 lenses before long too.

[Justin]

Hmmm... well, the site crashed when I tried to post, so hopefully you don't get a double reply from me. Luckily I copied the text right before it died... BTW - I kind of liked that first pic, as it implies a lot of motion. More below.

Hey Roy,

I'm a newbie myself but I think I can expand a bit on what srwatters was talking about. You've probably figured all this out by now but what the heck.

I do most of my shooting in Aperture priority as well. In the low light stuff like you were shooting in, dial in max aperture for whatever lens you have in there, and crank up the ISO to whatever you're comfortable with (ie: how much noise you're willing to accept). Then when you meter on your dog, the camera will set the shutter speed for the proper exposure. Since you're shooting wide open, this is the best shutter speed you'll get for the conditions. Note a few other things about shooting wide open... your depth of field will be shallow so proper focus is critical. If you're shooting manual and you can anticipate where your dog will be jumping, set the focus using the distance numbers on the lens (with a fixed lens, you should also have an indication of DOF from the markings on the lens). Also note that it can be tough to get good pictures of black dogs! You may have to overexpose a bit which is going to be tough in an already low light situation.

Another approach is to keep the slower shutter speeds and pan with the action as srwatters mentioned. That way your hound will be nominally in focus, and the background will be blurred, implying lots of motion. I've just started practicing this with my wife cruising on her mountainbike and the effect is very cool.

Finally, I was recommended a great book this weekend and have read half of it thus far. It's called "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...e&n=507846. I really like his approach, and it's definately worth the $20.

Hope that helps,
Justin

[Roy]

Justin,

Thanks for your input and for the link to the book. I'm slowly getting away from the program modes. In fact over 100 of my last shots have all been taken with apeture priority. I've been setting it to F8 and ISO speeds from 800 to 1600. Definately seeing an improvement even with not so high end glass. I'll continue my progress by experimenting with max aperture and see how that goes. This is a great site for an amateur to get good help and I appreciate every bit of it. Thanks again for taking your time to respond.

[Justin]

No problem Roy, like I said I'm a newbie myself. If we all pool our knowledge maybe we can get good pictures :). That book I mentioned called the middle aperture range (including f/8 ) a "who cares" aperture. This isn't "who cares" in a bad way, this is a "who cares" what the DOF is, ie: subject and background are at the same distance so you're not worried about DOF (somebody standing by a wall, or everything at infinity, etc). When this is the case, the middle apertures are good because they tend to use the "sweet spot" of the lens, where, apparently, the lens resolves more detail with better contrast. In your case, taking low light pics of your dog, the background may be slightly out of focus at f/8 (which may not be noticeable in low light anyway) and you may not get enough light for the shutter speed your after. The contrast would be a wide open aperture, where only the subject is in focus and the background may be a wash of colors (drawing your eye to the subject) or the small apertures where most or all of the scene is in focus (the "storytelling" apertures). Aperture is really key... since you can make "correct" exposures with about 6 combinations of aperture and shutter speed, I'm still working on chosing the "creatively" correct exposure for the job...

BTW.... if you anticipate doing a lot of photography with your dog in outdoor situations, you should consider a good wide angle lens. You'll get a lot of depth-of-field, and it will be much easier to encompass the 'feel' of the place.... the sky, the water, etc. Unfortunately, they can be expensive. I'd try a 50mm before you buy one. They've inexpensive, but remember that with the 1.5 or 1.6 factor on your camera, it turns it into a fast 75 - 80mm lens. Not exactly wide angle. I bought one over Christmas for indoor available light shooting and ended up returning it because I could never get far enough away from my subjects.

J

[jhom]

You are shooting action photos. I would use shutter priority @ 400 and above. Bump up your ISO. Set your AF to AI Servo. The alternative is to use M mode and set your shutter and aperature for correct exposure. This would be fine if the lighting doesn't change much. The basic (program) modes on the 20d are somewhat limiting especially for action shooting.

[Justin]

Yeah I'm aways a little nervous about shooting action in shutter priority unless I know there's a lot of light and it will always be there. If you can live with the depth of field, at least you know you're getting the fasted shutter speed possible if you shoot wide open Aperture Priority.

[jhom]

Justin,

I can appreciate your concerns about aperture and DOF or DOV. However, unless you want a blur effect, shutter speed will be a primary variable when capturing these types of action shots. The 20D is an excellent camera for high ISO. With higher ISO, you will be afforded greater latitude in aperture and shutter speed.

[Justin]

Roger that.... I do need to experiment more with how much ISO us 20D users can get away with. I don't have a good feel for that yet.

Thanks!
J

[dhoward]

Let me second Justin's recommendation for this book. I've read the older (non-digital) version and learned a lot. I'm currently waiting for the local library to get the new version so I can check out the update.

[Justin]

Hi Don -

I'm curious what you think about the new edition after you read it. I've read or perused most of it and haven't seen much digital specific info, and maybe for good reason.... aperture, shutter, and light are pretty universal :). I guess the only things really different with digital from my beginner's perspective is the ability (or necessity) of controlling white balance, changing ISO with the conditions, and having instant feedback with all the histogram bells and whistles. He has one chapter at the end of the book, a whole 8 pages, dealing with "Film vs Digital". There are a few other digital specific sidebars, one of which is called "Zoom Lens Conversions for Fixed-Lens Digital Cameras" that is almost incoherent to me... I can't understand a word of it. Maybe it was just too late at night when I read it. At any rate, I think he added the word "digital" just to have an excuse to make a new edition and sell some more books, but that doesn't take away from the fact that it is a very good book (in my opinion). Some of us digital users have to be reminded of the fact that it still works pretty much the same way anyway :lol: .