Process of post processing

[Mo]

I tried to a search, but really didn't find a thread for this, unless i just missed it.

Since I'm still new and learning all this, I was wondering what the post processing procedure really consist of. I have PS, and usually, all I do is the Auto Levels and leave it at that. I want to do the post processing to my photos and make them look the best possible.

So if you guys could help me out and list some steps or direct me to a link or something, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch!

[brad]

There was a similar thread not long ago:

http://www.texasphotoforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=4601


Typically, it varies for each photo for me.. but the two primary steps that I do are converting from RAW and doing a contrast boost... sometimes I'll do more, but that happens almost every time.

[LoungeLizard]

So...being that I'm lazy and haven't read up on it yet, how do you like the new PSCS2 "auto stuff" on RAW converter? I don't particularly care for it - specially the very high contrast settings it uses.

[brad]

I have no opinion on it... I'm using PSP 9 for all my post processing right now.... sharpen High, adjust stops if needed, adjust white balance if needed.... that's it on the conversion. :)

[Mo]

Great! Thanks a lot for that link.

[srwatters]

Originally Posted by LoungeLizard

So...being that I'm lazy and haven't read up on it yet, how do you like the new PSCS2 "auto stuff" on RAW converter? I don't particularly care for it - specially the very high contrast settings it uses.

Just say NO to auto. Very rarely do my shots look better using the auto function. CS2 does have the ability to adjust the auto feature some, but I find that I can do it with the histogram and my eyes better. YMMV.

[jeffkohn]

So...being that I'm lazy and haven't read up on it yet, how do you like the new PSCS2 "auto stuff" on RAW converter? I don't particularly care for it - specially the very high contrast settings it uses.

I find the behavior of the Auto settings in ACR 3.x pretty strange. It seems to favor very strong negative EV adjustments and very strong positive Brightness adjustments. And as you mention the contrast setting is pretty strong. One thing I do like is the Highlights/Shadows checkboxes at the top that let you see any clipping. Used to be you had to hold down the Alt key and drag Exposure/Shadow sliders to get this information.

[jeffkohn]

Here's a copy/paste of a post I made in a similar thread on another forum.

I shoot RAW, and use Photoshop CS2's Camera RAW for conversion. With CS2 the Bridge and ACR 3 are a nice improvement over the previous version. In particular working with groups of images is easier now. Also the curves support within Camera RAW is welcome. I think Bridge is a big improvement over the CS File Browser in both performance and stability. I frequently had problems with the CS File Browser "losing" image preview cache for folders, but with the option to autmatically use folder-based caching I haven't had that problem with Bridge yet. The Bridge can actually be a pretty decent browser once you let it build image preview cache for a folder. After that the previews show pretty quickly and the different layouts are also useful. My only complaints are that the Apply Camera RAW Settings dialog is gone now, and some of the commands that were previously available on the right-click menu are buried in the Tools or Edit menus now (though I have to confess I haven't investigated whether I can configure this or not).

My workflow is roughly like this:

1) Use Breeze Downloader Pro to download NEF's to the hard drive.

2) Let Bridge build the preview cache while I go do something else

3) Use either the Slideshow or the "filmstrip focus" to cull images by giving the ones that might be keepers or at least worth a second look one or more stars (shortcut key makes this easy and fast).

4) Filter the Bridge view to only show the images with at least a one-star rating.

5) Apply any batch RAW settings that I might one to apply to all or groups of images (primarily white balance and calibration settings).

6) Now open the images in Camera RAW. Depending on how many many there are I may open them all at once, or I may open groups of related images, etc. At this point I'm adjusting the RAW settings as necessary: Exposure, Shadows, Contrast, etc. Starting with ACR 3 I also may do some initial cropping here. I don't actually save PSD's at this point, I just use the "Done" button to save the RAW settings to the sidecar files.

7) After getting a closer look at the images I may have decided that some aren't keepers after all. For those images I'll remove their star rating so they no longer show up in the filtered view.

8 ) At this point I'll either generate screen-sized JPG proofs to send off for evaluation (say if it was a portrait session of my friend's kid) or save 16-bit PSD's that are ready for post-processing.

9) As for actual post-processing, I've found that the better I get with Camera RAW, the less I find myself needing to do in Photoshop proper. I almost never have to mess around with color balance, levels, etc. My initial post-processing step is sharpening, since I have ACR configured to only sharpen previews and not apply any sharpening to the converted image. Of course if needed noise reduction will come before sharpening. After that I may need to do a bit of cloning/healing, or maybe soften skin tones, etc. Usually the finishing touch is local contrast enhancement, ie large-radius USM. I prefer this approach to using a more agressive tone-curve during raw conversion because it gives me more control and doesn't seem to hurt shadow detail as much (and if it does I can easily fix that with the history brush).

10) At this point I have my "finished" PSD's, which are used for printing. I'll also run a batch action to generate web-sized JPG's for uploading to PBase.

Well, that may sound like a long complicated workflow, but it's really pretty streamlined IMHO. I think it took longer to write about it than it does to actually do it. A lot of this may seem familiar to people who have read Bruce Fraser's book Real World Camera RAW since my workflow is based in large part on his, abeit adapter for CS2 and my needs. I'll be interested to see what the CS2 version of his book adds.

[skdupre]

Wedding Photography Workflow (200+ images)

Here is my workflow, which has come from both Kelby's book and Dr. Brown (from the web), who is a PhotoShop pro with online tutorials. Eventually, you will want to customize your own workflow, but this will serve as a starting point.

First of all - shoot a series of raw files.

Open Adobe Bridge and browse to the drive with the CF card.
Establish new folders for customer: Example: Smith / RAW / Processed. I copy the files from the CF card and paste them in the RAW folder. I may also have a folder sequence like this: Engagement, Bridal, Wedding. Each of those folders will have sub-folders; RAW & Processed.
Open the customer folder: EX: Smith and go to Tools / Cache / Build Cache for Subfolders. This technique of only opening the main folder prevents Bridge from having to open up the RAW thumbnails prior to building the Cache (absolutely the best sequence). This prepares the thumbnails for efficient viewing via the slideshow feature, which I use to filter through the bad shots. Otherwise, the raw files bog down in the slide show.
With everything still selected go to Label / 2 Stars. This places a 2 star rating on all your images. I'll explain why in the next step.
Go to View / Slide Show. As you are going through the slide show use the number pad to change any bad apples to a 1 rating. I use the right arrow key to go through the files and then key in the 1 on the number pad to label the bad ones.
Once you go through your files once go to View / Sort / By Rating. Deselect images and then Select only the 2 star ratings. I then go back through them one more time for a final cut.
You are now ready to process only the good shots, which will save you time.
Select several images that have the similar lighting conditions. Right Click and select Open in Camera Raw. (I set my default double click to go directly to Adobe Camera Raw - somewhere in preferences)
You will see the images in an editing / processing screen. Under the SIZE section of the Show Workflow Options I (from my 12.8mp Canon 5D) Size to 1365 x 2048 (2.8 MP). This is what I use for files that I am processing for up to 5x 7" prints. Otherwise, my pc bogs down with the large files. This saves time and renders professional quality. FYI - resolution is also set to 300 pixels. If I have an 8x10 or 11x14 I want to print then I set the SIZE to 2912 x 4368 (12.7 MP), which really slows down my process (and I have 2 gb or ram).
Make whatever changes you need to. I do not use any Auto settings. Kelby does a good walk through of each of the features in his book. I really like the color temperature slide bar for color balance. Notice under White Balance you can change the Camera Settings much like in DPP. Also note that you can adjust "exposure," which is sweet.
I don't do any sharpening in ADC just because others have warned against it.
Last step is to "Save" from this editing screen. Select the folder you want it to go in or create a new folder. Make any naming adjustments - I will add an "e" at the end of the original file name for edited. I also set up a folder called Processed in the same folder the raw files are in. Be sure to set your JPEG quality to 10.
After that, you will want to go to PhotoShop for final editing and sharpening. Kelby goes through several sharpening techniques. Be sure to save your favorite to an "Action," which takes the work out of the process.
I use the Lab Sharpening technique and batch process the entire folder using an Action once I've done all my other editing in PS.
I then copy the folder of Raw and Processed files to my External Hard Drive and clean the CF cards for the next shoot.

Let me know if anyone sees any holes in this process. I'm wondering if MACs run faster and more efficiently that my PC? I would like to work with larger files, but my PC bogs down so I've found the min. settings that give me acceptable quality. I have to go back and re-process any files that a client wants enlarge beyond 5x7". But, for wedding photography that is usually just a handfull of images so it hasn't been a problem.

Note; this was revised on 4/16/06

Sean

[johnastovall]

One of the first things I do in Bridge is append my copyright data and other information into the metadata.

[sbp]

Hi Sean,
I uses DPP but tonight I will try your flow I have 350 photo to go through. I will see how it works out for me.

[skdupre]

SBP,

I've used DPP some myself. It is nice to be able to manipulate the actual camera settings after the shoot; however, Adobe Camera Raw seems to have more control over the digital file (negative...).

Sean

[skdupre]

John,

Thanks for the copyright tip. Most of my work these days is wedding photography and I don't upload my images for viewing so the copyright metadata isn't that important to me. Don't throw stones at me for saying this, but I don't even use the metadata feature in Bridge. I just process the files and batch them for my lab to print. I copy the files back on to a CF card and turn that in to my lab (too many files to upload for printing).

Sean

[skdupre]

Post Processing: Mac VS PC

Does anyone use a MAC for their processing via Adobe (Bridge / PhotoShop)? Seems like all the tutorials and Kelby's PhotoShop TV (http://www.photoshoptv.com/photoshop...h-28-2006.html)are all using MACS for their demonstrations (including Dr. Brown).

I'm wondering if I am missing out on performance by using a PC? I even ramped up my RAM to 2 gb. I just hate having to wait throughout the post processing "process." If the PC kept up with what I was doing it would shave about an hour from my workflow (350+ wedding files).

So, are the newer MACs better/faster/ more stable than the newer PCs in terms of post processing our digital raw files (12.8 mb w/ Canon 5d)? If so, I'll buy a MAC just for processing my files and keep my PC for all my other computer activities.

I hear that MACs don't have a "right click" option on the mouse and I know there will be other things to learn not to mention having to buy another version of PhotoShop CS2, but I'm not quite an "old dog" so I think I could learn a few new tricks (lol).

Any input on this MAC vs PC topic would be appreciated.

I'm attaching a few low res bridals that I took a few weeks ago - just for fun.

Thanks,

Sean

[Casper]

Thanks for the workflow info. I learn something new every time I come to TPF.

Steve