better Action shots

[SpinningHat]

I've got this image I took at the PBR event up here, and I like it, but looking for some advice and comments on how to take better action shots. A lot of what I've been doing this winter is indoor action like wrestling, and events like the PBR, etc, and while I've gotten some good images, I want to get more of the action in focus, and not so much one part or another. Any comments are appreciated.

[JPalmer]

It's not that your action isn't in focus....

It's that your shutter speed 1/160 at f5.3 is much too slow to freeze the action well enough to get a good action shot.

Typically speaking, your shutter speed should be 1/500. The biggest problem for you is your lens. You really need a lens that can have an f-stop at f2.8 or lower. There are a couple of options for you but few of them are cheap.

[CaptainTom]

It sounds like you are wanting to get more "depth of focus".
In order get more DOF you simply need to make your aperture smaller.
The bigger the aperture number, the smaller the aperture.
I.E. f 1.8 is wide open compared to f18.
f 1.8 will usually have a small DOF and f18 will have a very wide DOF.

To be able to use a small aperture (large number) you can do one or all of the following.

add more light to the subject. = flash
increase your ISO = higher ISO usually means less resolution and more "noise" = noise reduction software.
underexpose and attempt to fix in PS -= best if you shoot RAW

This said, you probably aren't going to be able to get increased DOF in the lighting and fast action situation you pose.

Learn to shoot with your lens wide open and then you can freeze the action with a faster shutter speed. Practice.

[SpinningHat]

This was shot in the Shutter priority mode on my camera, and unfortunately, the lens was already wide open. (I ca get f4 out of this lens, but not at this focal length. This was about 160mm.) I tried a few with a little faster shutter speed, but was hesitant to go over 1/360 and I dunno why. The images seemed a little too dark on the LCD. I'm trying to get myself a speedlight, but don't have the cash ATM. And, to make it worse, the iso was at 1600 on this shot. So basically, unless I buy more equipment, I've just got to deal?

On that note, with Nikon Speedlights, anyone using the SB 600? How well does it cycle to take pictures quickly?

[toverman]

A flash might have helped, but not too much if you were shooting from the stands. People in front of you create the possibility of weird shadows, and you're automatically removed from the action, reducing the power of whatever extra light you're using.

I worked with a guy who would shoot rodeo photos while standing inside the ring. I found the security of the fence just fine. Either way, for this type of shot, you'll get a closer perspective on the action. The above perspective can get neat shots, but I'd suggest front-row seats at first. Things like wrestling, you might have a better chance of getting a closer, unobstructed view.

I agree that a lens will make the most difference, allowing you to back off on the high ISO while using a faster shutter speed. An f 2.8 with a diffused flash might do the trick.

[JPalmer]

Originally Posted by SpinningHat

So basically, unless I buy more equipment, I've just got to deal?

Basically... yes.

[SpinningHat]

With wrestling, I can get mat side, so the only real obstruction would be the ref. Those aren't always in the best light, and having the flash on those has really made the pictures look decent, but I can't get much in rapid succession due the recharge rate. I tried to get better seats at the rodeo, but they were all sold out. :/

I guess I was hoping there was something technically I could fix. I just spent $900 on this kit, and want to use it as best I can, but it seems even this is not enough.

[toverman]

Newer Speedlites seem to recycle quickly with fresh batteries (I use Canon, but I'm sure Nikon does the same).

It's still money, but for your Nikon, a 50 mm f1.8 is about $115 at B&H Photo. For a little longer reach, an 85 mm f1.8 is about $400. That's a lot of low-light bang for your buck, and something to consider.

[SpinningHat]

I'll have to look at that.. $115 isn't too bad, and with enough persuasion I might be able to do the $400... but that's farther off. 50mm is about as close as I need to get on the mat.

Here's another shot I found in the mix, this was just auto corrected in PS Elements, the other one wasn't touched at all, but the shutter speed was 1/320 th, and the aperture was the same. is this Better? it looks a lot better to me, much more of the image is in focus, and not as blurred.

[shawn patrick]

You always hear "It's the photographer, not the camera" but for action photos when there isn't much light the camera/lens make a world of difference.

See if you can shoot in raw and raise the shutter speed a bit. Then lighten the photos when you convert them from raw.

[SpinningHat]

Thanks for the tips... I know eventually I'll get it right, I just hate doing a ton of post processing work, as it's time consuming. Does PS Elements convert from RAW?