Best settingsThis is a discussion on Best settings within the Photo Tips forums, part of the Photography Information category; Maybe a vague question but here goes, I shoot handheld only with a 100-400L Canon and was wondering the best ...
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Posts: 210 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Spring, Texas Real First Name: Matt Camera: Canon Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 1 LIKES Received: 1 LIKES Given: 3 | Best settings -
05-19-2008, 10:21 AM
Maybe a vague question but here goes, I shoot handheld only with a 100-400L Canon and was wondering the best ISO setting for shooting small birds on a sunny day. I shoot in AV mode at f11. I'm asking because a large # of my shots have a slight blur to them at 800 ISO and I'm wondering if I shold bump up to 1600 . I am shooting with a Canon XTi.
EXAMPLE
Thanks
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Posts: 802 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Houston, Texas Real First Name: Luis Camera: Canon Can Others Edit My Photos: No iTrader Rating: 7 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 |
05-19-2008, 10:55 AM
For sharper images you should increase the shutter speed. what speeds are you using to shoot with your lens? for that kind of lens range you need high speeds to get sharper images.
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05-19-2008, 11:15 AM
I shoot in AV mode which only lets me set ISO and F-stop. Should I shoot in TV mode which lets me set shutter speed instead of f-stop? | | | |
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Posts: 9,770 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Real First Name: Todd Camera: Canon Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 8 LIKES Received: 4 LIKES Given: 0 |
05-19-2008, 11:53 AM
Which is more important to you, managing depth of field (AV mode) or freezing a moving subject (TV mode)? That establishes your priority, but it's also important to pay attention to what the camera is setting for you (be it the shutter speed in AV or f-stop in TV). If you need to, shoot in manual mode to force yourself to look at both settings until you've got the hang of it.
I was unable to retrieve your EXIF data on the photo you posted, but my guess is that you were shooting at a shutter speed that didn't allow you to hand-hold without some self-inflicted motion blur. That's a hefty, heavy lens! Rule of thumb (someone correct me if I'm not remembering this right) is to hand-hold at 400 mm, your shutter should be at least 1/800th of a second.
If you don't want to haul a tripod out into the woods, you might consider a lightweight monopod, which will help you steady your camera.
Hope all that makes sense! | | | |
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05-19-2008, 12:07 PM
Ok, first open your apeture up to( im not sure how big you lense is) around 4-5.6 or smaller...you can still shoot in Aperture Priority (Av), reason being is that you are only focusing on getting the bird in sharp, Correct? the higher the f/stop the deeper the depth of field..meaning the backgroud will also be sharp, but here you are only wanting the bird, so when you open up the apeture fully (small #), more light will enter the lense faster, which will then increase the shutter speed so it wont overexpose, but the lower the f/stop (like around f/4) the quicker the drop off meaning whatever is behind the subject will be out of focus( like 1-2 inches behind). You dont have to necassarily shoot in Shutter Priority (Tv) to get a quick shutter speed, and I dont recommend doing that as your camera will only compensate so much until you start getting underexposed photos. I also have a Xti, and on sunny days I can hand hold at ISO 100 at 300mm focal length and get clear shots without an IS lens. But to be honest that picture looks like a focus problem rather than a camera shake problem. | | | |
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05-19-2008, 12:10 PM
Exposure Time = 1/40"
F Number = F9
Exposure Program = Aperture priority
ISO Speed Ratings = 800
Shutter Speed Value = 5.32 TV
Aperture Value = 6.34 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Average
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 400mm | | | |
(#7)
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Posts: 161 Join Date: May 2008 Location: Mesquite, Real First Name: Jayson Camera: Canon wadda they call it XFT? XTH? XS...noo oh well it doesnt really matter. Can Others Edit My Photos: No iTrader Rating: 2 LIKES Received: 0 LIKES Given: 0 |
05-19-2008, 12:10 PM
Quote: |
Originally Posted by toverman Which is more important to you, managing depth of field (AV mode) or freezing a moving subject (TV mode)? That establishes your priority, but it's also important to pay attention to what the camera is setting for you (be it the shutter speed in AV or f-stop in TV). If you need to, shoot in manual mode to force yourself to look at both settings until you've got the hang of it.
I was unable to retrieve your EXIF data on the photo you posted, but my guess is that you were shooting at a shutter speed that didn't allow you to hand-hold without some self-inflicted motion blur. That's a hefty, heavy lens! Rule of thumb (someone correct me if I'm not remembering this right) is to hand-hold at 400 mm, your shutter should be at least 1/800th of a second.
If you don't want to haul a tripod out into the woods, you might consider a lightweight monopod, which will help you steady your camera.
Hope all that makes sense! | Yeah I heard that you cant shoot any slower shutter speed than the focal length you are shooting at. For instance, if you are shooting at 100mm, then anything below 1/100th of a sec. will be too slow to hand hold...at least thats what I have heard..IDK! | | | |
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05-19-2008, 12:15 PM
I'd recommend shooting at f5.6, not f11, though that photo shows f9. Honestly, I usually use an ISO of 400, or 200 if by some miracle the bird is in the light. You can also use a flash, if you're not worried about scaring them. Haven't had one run from a flash yet. You might also shoot in continuous mode. Small birds move around alot and there's a chance some of your blur is caused by their movement. If you shoot in continuous, you have better luck of getting a photo when they are not moving. And make sure you didn't forget to turn on the IS mode on the lens (I've done that before) 
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05-19-2008, 12:32 PM
Thanks everyone, I will try out these suggestions this wekend. | | | |
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05-19-2008, 12:35 PM
Isn't the 100-400 kinda soft at the 400mm end anyway? This is what I have always heard. When I used my 100-400, I always tried to not go beyond 370mm. | | | |
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05-19-2008, 12:41 PM
Here's your problem:
Exposure Time = 1/40"
1/125 or faster for sure. A monopod would do wonders for your pictures too.
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Posts: 9,770 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Real First Name: Todd Camera: Canon Can Others Edit My Photos: Yes iTrader Rating: 8 LIKES Received: 4 LIKES Given: 0 |
05-19-2008, 01:41 PM
Yeah, when I saw the 1/40 shutter speed, I figured I was right for once! | | | |
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05-19-2008, 01:57 PM
again, as Todd mentioned, if freezing motion is important, use Tv, not Av.
and for shooting wildlife, freezing motion is a LOT more important than controlling the background blur. Trust me, at 400mm and 1/125s (or even 1/180s) shutter, the aperture will be open pretty dadgummed big, and you'll have all the background blur you want. AND the bird will be frozen. Then, should you decide you need even more light, adjust the ISO upwards some more. But keep the shutter fast enough. It is the priority in this situation.
Obviously, full manual would work but Tv should be more than adequate here as long as you set it fast enough.
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05-19-2008, 02:04 PM
Thanks again everyone, looking forward to some better pictures this weekend  | | | |
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05-19-2008, 02:55 PM
It might have already been said, but you should really be using a tripod....
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