Too soft, no matter what I do

[sioleabha]

I have Rebel XTi, and the kit lens. Usually, especially when I first got my camera a year and a few months ago, I get good, sharp photos. But lately sometimes I can't get a sharp focus no matter what I do.

Yesterday was a good example of this. I was taking photos at the pool, natural light with a little bit of shade from a tree. I was also using my flash. I shot the following photo in Manual mode, 1/160s, aperture 5.6, ISO 200. I used autofocus, and the autofocus point was set between his eyes. He was not moving around.



Se how his eyes are soft, and the ghosting around his teeth? I tried a faster shutter (1/200s) but that didn't help. Then I thought maybe the DOF was too shallow, so I tried an aperture of 8 and then 10, but I still had the same problem. Finally I set the camera to sports mode, and that made it worse!

Help?

[johnastovall]

What kind of sharpening are you doing in you post processing?

[toverman]

It could be an autofocus issue. Are you able to get something in focus with manual focus? How close were you to him when you shot it?

The kit lens isn't all that bad, but you might see if you can buy/borrow/try out another lens to see if it's the lens, too. They are not the most durable and even a slight bump could throw them off a little.

[Fotographie-Junge]

hmmm, more than likely its the lens not the camera. I also have an XTi and when I first got it, I thought the pictures were pretty sharp using a 100 dollar Sigma 28-70 2.8, but after having it a while, I started getting picky with sharpness and wanting it sharper and clearer. But when i got my 24-105 f/4 L IS, I could definately tell the difference. Here I would have used ISO 400, since the noise at this level is still really low, but you have adequate reaction light which would allow for an even quicker shutter speed to assure that you dont get(as bad) camera shake, and would have focused more on his right eye, as it is the closest to the camera(you). Did you let the camera decide the focus( using all focus points) or did you select the center focus?

[brad]

It does look like a camera shake issue to me.

Kit lenses are also notoriously not sharp at the "ends" of their f-stop ranges... the sweet spot will be somewhere in the middle. You may have to restrict yourself to shooting 6.3.. or even 8.0 with that lens if you want sharpness.

[Wil_Bloodworth]

Michelle,

First of all, you're photographing a child in a pool. I would suspect he's not sitting perfectly still reading a book so... the Rebel is going to lock on to the spot you mentioned and then attempt to take the photo. He could've moved slightly before the camera has a chance to actually take the photo. This is an example of the never-ending plight of point-and-shoot cameras. They're too slow.

The Rebel isn't necessarily rought with the same problem as it is an SLR. There are several things that could be problematic. 1... you didn't happen to drop the camera recently have you? 2... check the focus on something stationary with your camera on a tripod (or surface where the camera will not move)... and use the timer to take the photo so you don't accidentally move the camera.

If your "stationary object" photo is tack sharp like you're expecting then there isn't anything physically wrong with your body or lens. If that is the case, then you might try using a "continual focus" mode instead of a single/locking focus mode. Now, I am assuming the Rebel as that ability. I don't own one so it is complete conjecture.

If your subject is moving after your camera has locked focus and the delay between the focus lock is aquired and the image is capture is long enough, the subject is going to be out of focus no matter what shutter speed you're using. Unless you have the ability to shoot at small apertures from a decent distance... this will continue to be a problem with moving subjects.

Test your camera and get back to us...

- Wil

[barP]

how close were you? as tight as that shot is, i'm curious if you haven't crossed the close-focus boundary. i have no idea what it is for that lens, but anywhere between 18" and 3 feet is typical.

wp.

[sioleabha]

Originally Posted by johnastovall

What kind of sharpening are you doing in you post processing?

This photo is SOOC (jpg). All I did was crop it in close so you could see the problem.

Originally Posted by toverman

It could be an autofocus issue. Are you able to get something in focus with manual focus? How close were you to him when you shot it?

The kit lens isn't all that bad, but you might see if you can buy/borrow/try out another lens to see if it's the lens, too. They are not the most durable and even a slight bump could throw them off a little.

I have never been able to get anything in focus in manual focus. Maybe I just suck or my eyes are that bad, but what looks right to me before I take the picture does not look right later. I am getting a new lens soon (I hope, a 50mm/1.8), so I will see if that helps. If it is the lens, can it be cleaned or I dunno, calibrated or something?

Originally Posted by Fotographie-Junge

Did you let the camera decide the focus( using all focus points) or did you select the center focus?

I let the camera select the focus. Because I'm usually taking photos of moving children, I don't want to be constantly changing the focus point, but I can usually get it to pick the focus point I want if I just press the shutter halfway a couple of times. That's what I was doing here. Is that bad?

Originally Posted by ParkImaging

Michelle,

First of all, you're photographing a child in a pool. I would suspect he's not sitting perfectly still reading a book so... the Rebel is going to lock on to the spot you mentioned and then attempt to take the photo. He could've moved slightly before the camera has a chance to actually take the photo. This is an example of the never-ending plight of point-and-shoot cameras. They're too slow.

The Rebel isn't necessarily rought with the same problem as it is an SLR. There are several things that could be problematic. 1... you didn't happen to drop the camera recently have you? 2... check the focus on something stationary with your camera on a tripod (or surface where the camera will not move)... and use the timer to take the photo so you don't accidentally move the camera.

If your "stationary object" photo is tack sharp like you're expecting then there isn't anything physically wrong with your body or lens. If that is the case, then you might try using a "continual focus" mode instead of a single/locking focus mode. Now, I am assuming the Rebel as that ability. I don't own one so it is complete conjecture.

If your subject is moving after your camera has locked focus and the delay between the focus lock is aquired and the image is capture is long enough, the subject is going to be out of focus no matter what shutter speed you're using. Unless you have the ability to shoot at small apertures from a decent distance... this will continue to be a problem with moving subjects.

Test your camera and get back to us...

- Wil

You are right that he was not perfectly still, he just wasn't jumping around or swimming right that moment. He was standing by the side. When I was having so much trouble I left the pool for a second (don't worry, hubby was watching the kids) and took some photos of a colorful leaf at the park. It took me several tries but I was eventually able to get a fairly sharp photo then.

I tried using the continual focus mode like you said, and I get consistently bad results with that, which makes no sense to me. Every single photo is blurred beyond recognition.

I have a question. When taking photos of children, who are bound to move at least a little, should I NOT pre-focus? I always press the shutter halfway to lock in the focus before I take the photo. Would it be better not to do that?

Also, since this is a zoom lens (18-55mm), does it matter how far zoomed in I am? I almost always shoot at the 55mm end. If that's the problem, will I have this trouble with the 50mm prime when I get it?

Originally Posted by barP

how close were you? as tight as that shot is, i'm curious if you haven't crossed the close-focus boundary. i have no idea what it is for that lens, but anywhere between 18" and 3 feet is typical.

wp.

I cropped the photo that close just so you could see the problem. I was probably about 2 feet away.

[Fotographie-Junge]

Originally Posted by sioleabha

I let the camera select the focus. Because I'm usually taking photos of moving children, I don't want to be constantly changing the focus point, but I can usually get it to pick the focus point I want if I just press the shutter halfway a couple of times. That's what I was doing here. Is that bad?



.

For moving subjects, I usually use the center focus point as it is the strongest over all the other points(for quicker focusing)...because you let the camera decided the focus points, it takes the camera CPU longer to lock on, thus a moving object will not come out sharp because from the time it does eventually lock to the time you snap the shot, the subject has already moved out of focus....ALSO, try using AI SERVO...this will keep the subject in focus, as the camera will adjust to the subjects movement(with the botton pressed half way) forward and back.

[AndrewCCM]

Originally Posted by ParkImaging

Michelle,

First of all, you're photographing a child in a pool. I would suspect he's not sitting perfectly still reading a book so... the Rebel is going to lock on to the spot you mentioned and then attempt to take the photo. He could've moved slightly before the camera has a chance to actually take the photo. This is an example of the never-ending plight of point-and-shoot cameras. They're too slow.

The Rebel isn't necessarily rought with the same problem as it is an SLR. There are several things that could be problematic. 1... you didn't happen to drop the camera recently have you? 2... check the focus on something stationary with your camera on a tripod (or surface where the camera will not move)... and use the timer to take the photo so you don't accidentally move the camera.

If your "stationary object" photo is tack sharp like you're expecting then there isn't anything physically wrong with your body or lens. If that is the case, then you might try using a "continual focus" mode instead of a single/locking focus mode. Now, I am assuming the Rebel as that ability. I don't own one so it is complete conjecture.

If your subject is moving after your camera has locked focus and the delay between the focus lock is aquired and the image is capture is long enough, the subject is going to be out of focus no matter what shutter speed you're using. Unless you have the ability to shoot at small apertures from a decent distance... this will continue to be a problem with moving subjects.

Test your camera and get back to us...

- Wil

What about all those Canon Rebel commercials shooting their future NFL star running into the endzone?

[barP]

2 feet is pretty close. minimum focus distance on the 50mm 1.8 is 18", but most lenses i know of need more room.

wp.

[ngoduyviet]

There's your problem. Never let the camera focus for you, that's pretty much a hit & miss thing and miss more often than hit. Depending on where you want the subject in your frame, pick a single focus point & stick with it. You'll get sharp & correctly focused images that way.

Also FYI, with Canon, center focus is more accurate & faster with faster than F2.8 glass.

Edit: Thanks Keven for pointing out my mistake. it should have said "Never let your camera pick your AF point(s) for you"

[KJ Smith]

Originally Posted by ngoduyviet

There's your problem. Never let the camera focus for you, that's pretty much a hit & miss thing and miss more often than hit.

Your kidding...Why in the world would you make this statement.

Kevin

[brad]

I found this old thread that might help, too:

http://www.texasphotoforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=42290

[AndrewCCM]

Originally Posted by KJ Smith

Your kidding...Why in the world would you make this statement.

Kevin

I think he meant choose the AF POINT..