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Focus and pan?

This is a discussion on Focus and pan? within the Photo Tips forums, part of the Photography Information category; So, I think it was on this forum that I had run across an article regarding "locking in focus by ...

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Focus and pan? - 08-20-2008, 12:56 PM


So, I think it was on this forum that I had run across an article regarding "locking in focus by half way pressing down the shutter button, and then panning may not always produce a sharp picture" I found it rather interesting and can see how this may be the case. However, I'm wondering what the solution is then?? This is the way that I've been taking pictures with my D80. I've set up to only have a single focus point in my viewfinder, and have specifically set it at the center position. So, when I go to take a shot, my process is that I will point my camera, such that the focus point is on my subject, halfway press down my shutter button, and then pan the camera to frame the subject in the viewfinder. How do you do it?? Do you have your camera set to multiple focus points?? if so, do YOU determine what you're focusing on?? or does the camera?? Or do you change your locked in focus point in the viewfinder to match the position of your subject in the frame? I don't know if I'm making any sense, but I wanted to see if I could get some feedback...
thanks.

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08-20-2008, 01:02 PM


Depending on the focal length I will either live with it (at longer FL) or choose the AF point closest to my subject to use.

I posted a link about that focus and recompose awhile back. Depending on your distance from subject a radical focus and recompose can make a significant difference, but in a lot of cases it's minimal.

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08-20-2008, 01:22 PM


Marleny,

I used to do the same exact thing. But i was upset that my pictures were not sharp (some of them). I changed to switching the selector to the area where i want focus and it is 100x's better. I am sure outdoors with a high f stop it will probably be center'd but try out moving the focal point. It has fixed my problems and i am MUCH happier with it now.

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08-20-2008, 07:20 PM


You also may want to use Continuous Servo instead of Single. Meaning the the Single Servo is mainly used for stationary objects in comparison to objects in motion. If you're shooting with the D80 you're proable shooting with it on Auto. Also, I've found using the AE-L and AF-L has dramatically made a huge difference alone with using the Selector focus point as Grant and Andrew mentioned.

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08-20-2008, 07:27 PM


Nice 67 Mustang Grant-

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08-20-2008, 10:55 PM


Andrew, thanks for your input. I will have to experiment some more and find where the difference is biggest.

Grant, thanks for your input as well. I may try some shoot with moving my focus point closer to my subject. THe only problem with this is that in shooting kids I would have to be changing my point all the time! :)

Wade, I tried the continuous servo a while, and didn't really like that. The camera took forever to focus and finally shoot the picture. Maybe I was not using it correctly or something. I shoot in Manual mode most of the time, sometimes I switch to aperture priority in which cases I have found that the AE/L and AF-L help for locking in my exposure. Maybe I'll have to play around with the setting of the AE-L and AF-L button and set it to lock in my focus point rather that pushing down the shutter button. Is that what you mean?? I don't know how this would be different than using the shutter button depressed halfway down though.

All thank you for your input!

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08-20-2008, 11:01 PM


You're welcome. Here is a website that explains it more in detail.

Funny title.

http://visual-vacations.com/Photogra...pose_sucks.htm

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08-20-2008, 11:20 PM


Quote:
Originally Posted by m_mphotography View Post
So, I think it was on this forum that I had run across an article regarding "locking in focus by half way pressing down the shutter button, and then panning may not always produce a sharp picture" I found it rather interesting and can see how this may be the case. However, I'm wondering what the solution is then?? This is the way that I've been taking pictures with my D80. I've set up to only have a single focus point in my viewfinder, and have specifically set it at the center position. So, when I go to take a shot, my process is that I will point my camera, such that the focus point is on my subject, halfway press down my shutter button, and then pan the camera to frame the subject in the viewfinder. How do you do it?? Do you have your camera set to multiple focus points?? if so, do YOU determine what you're focusing on?? or does the camera?? Or do you change your locked in focus point in the viewfinder to match the position of your subject in the frame? I don't know if I'm making any sense, but I wanted to see if I could get some feedback...
thanks.
Even though you said "focus and pan", your post reads like "focus and re-compose". For stationary objects, people, portraits, etc., I compose then move my focus point to what I want in focus. Then I focus and evaluate what I see in the view finder. If it doesn't look to me like what I want is in focus yet, I activate the AF again. Then I capture the image.

Moving objects and panning are an entirely different subject.

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08-21-2008, 09:15 AM


Ken, you are right. That is what I meant to write, focus and re-compose.
Thanks!

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08-22-2008, 06:42 AM


Here is a link explaining some of the focusing characteristics on the D80.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d80/af-settings.htm

Are you using AF-C or AF-A for focussing - see page 29 of your manual under autofocus mode. In AF-C the focus may change even when you press the shutter button halfway if you move the camera slightly to adjust your composition and this can also happen in AF-A if there is any subject movement. If you use AF-S the focus stays the same even if you adjust the composition. Shooting small children in motion is tricky until you get the hang of camera operation. Owning a D80 and D300- the focuing on the D80 at times was trivial until I was able to anticipate movement of my 3 year old, have adequate light available(flash helps out), have a F Stop small enough to capture the details. Practice using a flash for most of you shots even in an outdoor environment. I would also suggest checking the firmware version you are using on the D80-

http://support.nikontech.com/cgi-bin...cGFnZT0x&p_li=

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08-23-2008, 09:25 AM


Wade, thanks for the info. I'm going to have to check the firmware version that I currently have on my camera. I try to shoot in AF-S, I've accidentally switched it to AF-C once and hated how that works...took forever to actually lock in focus and take a picture. I've also tried AF-A...I go back and forth between AFS and AFA for shooting kids, can't figure out what works best.

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08-23-2008, 10:35 PM


Okay, so this may be a dumb question but I'm going to ask anyway. My D80 says it's got Firmware 1.0 both A & B. So, I guess I should upgrade...but is the firmware upgrade for the camera or for my computer?? The instructions are not real clear, or maybe I'm not reading correctly....What are the advantages of upgrading the firmware?

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08-29-2008, 12:06 AM


*bump*

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08-29-2008, 01:14 AM


Quote:
Originally Posted by m_mphotography View Post
Okay, so this may be a dumb question but I'm going to ask anyway. My D80 says it's got Firmware 1.0 both A & B. So, I guess I should upgrade...but is the firmware upgrade for the camera or for my computer?? The instructions are not real clear, or maybe I'm not reading correctly....What are the advantages of upgrading the firmware?
Downloaded on computer and put on a memory card to update camera.

The confusing part is you copy file A to the card and update A then format and copy B to the card and update B. Step 4 is the one with the blue around the number not the 4 under Step 5.

Updates:
The product will be "Certified for Windows Vista"
Support for the new USB Media Transfer Protocol (MTP) has been added. The PTP option in the setup menu will be modified to MTP/PTP. The icon will also be modified.
The effects of noise reduction processing performed at shutter speeds of 1 - 8s with shutter speed set to "bulb", when ON is selected for Long Exp. NR in the shooting menu, have been improved.
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08-29-2008, 08:54 AM


I try to use the focus point that's closest to what I want to be in focus. I might have to re-compose a little, but I try to keep the movement to a minimum.

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