Photo tips for shooting under lights

[agymom]

I took some shots at a football game the other night and just couldn't get the right settings. ISO at 3200, of course I know there is noise, but I couldn't seem to get the right shutter speed. Any suggestions?

[ldelacruz]

Could you give us some more info? It would also help to post a couple of examples.

I guess you were using the 40D?
College, High School ?
Lens?
AV, M, TV?
F stop?

[agymom]

idelacruz, I was using my 40d, TV Mode, ISO 3200, AV 2.8, SS 1/160, highschool football. (Between rainshowers!)

[iCe]

Did you have room to push the shutter speed up without being too underexposed? If so set the camera to M and try for 1/500th. I shoot in some pretty dim locations and I can make 1/500, f2.8, ISO 3200 work...

Also- Forget automatic white balance. The field lights will drive your camera nuts and WB will be all over the place. Find something that is close (I use 4800), shoot RAW, and correct the WB in ACR.

[agymom]

Thanks Micheal, I will try that! Was my first night game to try so I have lots to learn.
I did try some differnt setting on WB, couldn't get just the right one, I think nerves took over.

[RightAngle]

I usually shoot 1600 2.8 320 at most any football game, sometimes its bad enough I have to break down and use a little flash even.

[iCe]

Originally Posted by agymom

Thanks Micheal, I will try that! Was my first night game to try so I have lots to learn.
I did try some differnt setting on WB, couldn't get just the right one, I think nerves took over.

It gets easier the more you do it. Either that or I am screwing up horribly and don't realize it. Either way I'm happy

The "right one" when it comes to WB at a night football field is "around" 4800. Why? Because that's what I set my camera on Really... something close is going to be fine because you correct in ACR. The point is to let the camera stop worrying about the ever changing WB.

One question (or two). Are you shooting RAW format or jpg? If JPG throw my WB advice away. If RAW then IF there is anything in the image that is 18% gray then you can use the WB dropper in ACR to correct each image. If not it's all about eyeballing it (where I get into trouble ). If you are working with a lot of images you might consider using the crop tool and the straighten tool (as needed) in ACR. It speeds things up a lot.

[agymom]

Michael, I shot the game Friday night in jpeg, I normally shoot RAW. Didn't know how many shots I was going to take so I chose jpeg so I wouldn't have to change cards in the rain. (I may have to get some bigger memory cards) I have shot many afternoon games but those lights threw me off. Will try to get to the game early this week and take some test shots. First game, rain, bright lights, and nerves don't make for a very pretty combination! LOL! I was so nervous I couldn't even remember how to bump up the ISO to 3200, with the help of another photog I finally got it! Will be back here after the next game with some more shots for you guys to check out. Thanks again...Connie

Oh, I do have a gray card, it was in my bag at home....of course!

[iCe]

You did pretty well for the first game so I wouldn't beat yourself up any.

Just so I know you got this I am going to repeat myself (sort of). The white balance is literally all over the place from second to second. I don't know the technical reason for it but you'll never be able to nail the WB for each shot because the lights are constantly changing. You have to get it close in the camera and fix it in ACR. Some won't need to be fixed. Some will a little. Some will be all jacked up. Setting it manually keeps the camera from having to process WB that is constantly changing. You can sort of fix JPG's with the Color Balance layer in CS2 or 3. At least get rid of any color caste...

[Dobick]

Connie -- It was good to meet you Friday night!

Prior to Friday night, the last time I had shot in the stadium was two years prior. The lights on friday were a full 1.5 stops less intense than they were two years ago.

Two years ago, I could easily shoot with settings of ISO 1600 f/2.8 and 1/320.

Friday night, I was a full 1/2 stop under exposed at 3200 f/2.8 and 1/200.

I am not sure what was different on Friday night, but it was very very dark out there.

Needless to say, at those settings I didn't get anything that was any better than what you got.

[agymom]

Michael, I understood what you were saying. I do want to do a few adjustments on the photo I posted, that one is straight from the camera with only some cropping. I've got to learn to think these things through before I get to where I am shooting.


Kent, was great meeting you Friday, you saved me! I have so much to learn but love every minute. I tell my husband learning all these new things will either keep my mind sharp or it will short circuit!! LOL!
Thanks again...
Connie

[ldelacruz]

Connie,
Not a bad shot and that is a great start. I think the slow shutter speed is what affected your picture most. If the lighting is that bad there is not much you are going to be able to do about it. I rarely shoot in TV mode, I usually shoot in AV and sometimes manual so I am not sure how TV would change your settings to keep you at 1/160. Either way 1/160 is too slow and is going to give you the motion blur like in your photo. If possible stay above 1/320 and it should help with camera shake and motion blur a bit better.

You had a great start and with the help of this site you are going to be getting great shots real soon.

[agymom]

Thanks Lonnie, You guys have encouraged me and with all your tips I am anxious to try again. I plan on leaving the "nerves" at home next game!

[Dobick]

Just as an example -- here is a shot I took of the same moment.

The lights this year look like they are going to be a real challenge. Not much you can do about it, unless you happen to be shooting Nikon - or maybe grab up the new 50d and take advantage of the extended ISO??????

I was shooting with the camera manually set to the following:
3200 1/200 f2.8 I keep my WB dialed to a specific temp, because I know that I am going to have to mess with it later.

This is straight out of the camera with nothing done to it except the conversion to jpg



Just to give you a visible idea of the color shift and phasing of the lights -- take a look at this series of three shots, more specifically the color band.
All three shot at 3200 1/320 and f/2.8

[agymom]

Thanks Kent! We have new lights at our field, will be interesting to see how they are...if you're not doing anything Firday night, come on up and join me.