Tattoo Pics

[Richard]

Being a tattoo artist, taking good photographs of my tattoo work for my portfolio is a big part of the job. I posted awhile back about not getting good results with my photos. I've been using my old kit lens back then. I've switched to a 17-40 f4 lens and I'm getting better results. Here are some sample pics. If anyone has some better suggestions on how I can make these better (I usually use this style border), by all means please let me know. Just FYI, I usually print them on 8x10's for my portfolio.





Does anyone know the best way to not get glare? I didn't use a flash on these two (just some overhead lights) but I still got some glare. Do I need to stand the clients farther from the light or closer right under the light? If I use my 580 EX II with a diffuser or small soft box, will it help? Thx.

[RKDauph]

I am by no means an expert but have tried a few tattoo photographs. Your photos are straight on close ups. I try to use lighting and angles to bring out the color and artistry.

[CaptainTom]

My first impression is that the exposures are all over the place. Most are underexposed and one is overexposed. I recommend using a "gray card" that you can buy at a photo store, use it to find your correct exposure. Either that, or learn how to read a histogram on your camera. What is happening is that the meter in the camera doesn't know that the subject has dark or light skin, or that the tat is bright or dark. It read the light reflecting off of the subjects and sets the camera for an "average". It's up to you to adjust the exposure to compensate for the differences. When your camera reads the reflected light off the gray card, it sets the meter the same each time (adjusting for the possible different lighting). If you are going to shoot using a flash, I recommend a flash meter. It will read only the light getting to the subject and not be influenced by the light or dark skin, etc. Also recommend learning how to use a custom white balance. This can be done using the gray card as well. It will give you better and more accurate color.


Alternative: hire me to come and take these pictures....but, I'm expensive.

[Richard]

RK... I've been taking straight on photos to show what the tattoo looks like in general. I need that for my portfolio. But you also make a good point... maybe I need to ask my clients to come back when the tattoo is healed so I can take more artistic photos.

Captain... Thanks for the advice. I've never used a gray card before but it looks like I may have to. When I use it, do I put my 20D on auto and shoot the gray card?... then look at what settings it automatically picks and adjust it from there on manual?

Thanks again for the advice... it's very helpful.

[OTRphoto]

Richard - are you taking these right after you are done and have put the goop on? If so - that could be causing alot of your glare.

I've only done one set of tat pics and that was a series from beginning to end when my fiance' got his a few months back

[Richard]

mjae... yeah, I have to take the photos right after I do the tattoo. I usually wait 5 minutes then wipe the "goop" down again really good and try to get it as dry as possible. I wish I had the luxury of taking pics the following day (which I've found to be the best time to take unhealed pics) or when the tattoo is fully healed but sometimes I don't have that luxury specially when some of my clients who I do bigger pieces for are from out of town.

[Richard]

mjae... by the way, your husband's tattoo looks great! And you took some awesome photos of his tattoo progress.

[trahanw]

Richard,

Just wanted to drop a note and let you know that this is some remarkable tatoo's. The detail in your work deserves a well exposed photo. Believe Tom hit it dead on when he talks about using a Gray card to obtain the appropriate white balance. If you look at the wall behind your subject it appears grayish instead of the white. Using a gray card to set the White Balance in the camera will definately adjust for the overhead lighting and bring out the correct skin and color tones. What I would suggest is to have you clients go outside using natural light until you can figure out your white balance and exposure. You should notice a significant difference in your shots with color tones. If you're going to shoot inside, I highly recommend that you shoot in RAW allowing for a better WB adjustment in post processing. You may also try bouncing your light source from an adjacent wall or ceiling. Using a diffuser will help out some to soften the light but not get rid of the glare problem your having. For a quick fix, try moving your subjects outside. Work with your on board histogram to try and get the levels centered allowing for a properly exposed photo. The onboard light meter as Tom mentioned operates on a reflective metering system comparitive to a light meter which operates on an incident metering system. Here's a tidbit of information on each:
If you use a reflective light meter with a grey card it is almost the same reading as an incident meter.

A reflective light meter measures the light reflecting off of the subject. An incident light meter measures the light falling on the subject. The dome on the incident meter is designed to allow 18% of the light falling on the subject to enter. A grey card, or the back of your hand, or green grass will reflect 18% of the light falling on it. Hence the reason for the same readings.

18% of the light=18% of the light

With a reflective meter you measure the light from camera position. With an incident you usually measure precise parts of the subject at the subject position. How much light is falling on this side? How much on that side? Etc.

For most practical purposes you want to know how much light is reaching the film. This is where a reflective meter will give you a better reading.

If you use an incident meter it is not necessary to use a grey card. If you use a grey card it is not necessary to use an incident meter.

The difference is in where the light is falling and is it the same for the whole scene?

The one big advantage to using an incident meter is when you want to do complicated lighting setups or ratios where you need to know precisely how much light is falling on various parts of the subject. Such as window lit subject where you want to add fill light to the shadow side, etc. How much light is there, how much do you want to add, what is the desired ratio or effect?

For everyday shooting under normal conditions stick with your built-in meter or reflective hand held meter.

Hope this helps some.

[zeroskillz]

Here's a quick photoshop makeover.
If you like that, take a little more time than I did wit the healing brush...






HTH
-Ted

[OTRphoto]

Originally Posted by Richard

mjae... by the way, your husband's tattoo looks great! And you took some awesome photos of his tattoo progress.

Thanks!

I keep meaning to take a photo of it now that it's all healed and add it in there - but I just keep forgetting...

And he was nice enough to go back to the artist after it healed up and let her take a better photo for her album. The lady that did his has done most of my daughters 10 tats - all custom jobs - she does some really good work.

[d2creative]

Nice stuff, Richard!
Is there anyone in Houston or Dallas that you would recommend that is really great at doing Japanese style Koi, Koi Dragons, Water, etc?