Night Scenes in Hue, Viet Nam

[Comanche]

I appreciate the comments many of you made on the last series.

This one was a bit more challenging - sometimes the light was so bad I was shooting ISO 6400 at f 1.4. I don't have Noise Ninja on this laptop, and I really can't do good color correction on this thing either. I will process the RAW files when I get home.

Also, my apologies to those of you who speak Vietnamese. I do not have the Unicode characters installed on this machine and cannot write the correct diacritical marks needed for pronunciation.

The sun sets at 6:30 or so and it’s dark by 7 PM. That gives me time to dawdle over a bowl of pho – the wonderful Vietnamese beef noodle soup. (Say “phuh.” That’s close enough for the locals to understand what you want.) I am totally convinced phowill be on the tables of heaven. One girl quickly dips some fresh bean sprouts in boiling water while another watches the rich broth poured into a bowl she will soon set in front of me. Properly nourished, I’m ready to walk.



I love to wander the streets of Hûe at night. The people are outside because air conditioning has yet to keep everyone inside as happens in America. Internet cafés are everywhere (the cost of buying their own computer is still too high for most people) and the cafés are not air conditioned. Some “specialize” in games, and are full of noisy boys like this one. Others have computers outfitted with web cams and all the IM services. All of them are packed in the early evening – and the Internet often slows to a crawl.



It’s more than just safe to walk around at night – it is friendly. People may wonder why you are taking pictures of their ordinary activities, but they consistently smile and wave. If I were a drinking man, I wouldn’t have had to buy my own beer the entire night. An evening meal with one’s buddies, washed down with some of the local brew while watching the world go by is a common sight on the streets. These guys really wanted me to sit down with them, but laughed in male understanding when I told them my wife was waiting for me.



A nearby market area still had some businesses open. Professional women who work in the daytime are regular customers of this salon. Get a shampoo and a cut in the evening and be ready for the office the next morning. Again, the shop is not air conditioned, but on this night, there was a nice cool breeze coming in through the sliding glass front door.



The fruit stand next door was not busy. In fact, the bored clerk had little else to do but text message her friends while she waited for closing time. In the morning, the store will be teeming with women doing their daily shopping, but all is quiet for now.




On a nearby residential street, a young girl – too young to ride a motorbike – glides homeward on her bicycle, mobile phone in hand while she texts a friend. I wonder if she is texting the bored clerk at the fruit stand. When the girl is old enough her skills will carry over to texting on a motorbike. Even in the chaotic traffic of Vi?t Nam, it is common to see people texting while riding their motorbike and chatting with a friend perched on the back. Mobile phones are the norm here. The service is excellent and much cheaper than in the U.S.




Though texting is very popular, even between adults, there are still times when talk is necessary. One day in the near future, the young bicyclist will be a mother like this one – talking on the mobile phone while bringing Junior home from an activity. If car-borne cell phone chatterers bug you in America, think of what traffic is like in Vi?t Nam with only two wheels under the talker. By the way – the wearing of helmets is now mandatory for motorbikers, but the law does not apply to kids yet as there is some concern that improperly fitting children’s helmets could cause more harm than good.



I wonder if this man got a call from his wife while he was on the way home from work – the “On-the-way-home-get-a-quart-of-milk-and-a-loaf-of-bread” kind of call. He seemed to know what he was doing as he was quite fussy and spent some time selecting exactly what he wanted.




Across the street, a young lady realizes she needs some cash and makes a quick stop at the ATM. When my wife and I arrived in Hûe in 2005, there was not an ATM in sight. Now these two-ton tellers are everywhere.




At many major intersections there are two bicycle tires tied together and set up as an informal sign telling the passers-by that bicycle repairs are available. Want a tire inflated? That will cost you 500 Vietnamese dong – about 3 cents. The fixit man will have a few simple tools with him – some adjustable wrenches to tighten a nut, a couple of screw drivers, and a pan of water to help him find the leak in the inner tube. As you can imagine, this is a hard way to make a living.



Finally, the night quiets down – at least in my part of town. There are fewer motorbikes, the store signs switch off, and the beer drinkers have gone home to their domestic doom. The street cleaner has finished her route and heads back to the pickup point with her cart of trash.



Good night, Hûe.

[lhdvies]

Thks Doug, this is so interesting! You are doing a very good job of journalizing a way of life unfamiliar to most of us. Your journal is much more important than the "artistic quality" of the images, and besides your photos are just fine & do a very good job of presenting your message.

[Teddington]

Doug, you're photos of everyday life are fascinating but your commentary brings them to life. Since we can't be there experiencing this with you first hand, we'll settle and enjoy it vicariously. Thanks for sharing.

[semperaggie]

I really enjoyed the photos and the commentary. The beer drinking one and the two girls texting are my favorites!

[ngoduyviet]

Another great series, and I don't think any apologies needed. I always enjoy your photography work, and really appreciate you sharing it to everyone here.

[Dobick]

Doug,

Please please please, keep the images coming. I very much enjoy the visioins from the other side of the world!

[KeithnFW]

This is fascinating stuff!

[MarcoFromHouston]

Pho & beer = Heaven to me!!!

Excellent work Doug! I, just like Leon stated, am envious of your assignment & skills!

[Comanche]

Originally Posted by MarcoFromHouston

Pho & beer = Heaven to me!!!

Okay, Marco - here's the beer!



Festival Beer is made right here in Hue - it is the "high end" local beer, made in the same brewery as Huda Beer, but more expensive. Notice the label is in English - darned if I know why.

You can't see it in the pix very well (so much for my skills, Marco), but there is ice in the glass. The Vietnamese like their beer on ice.

I shot this photo at a business lunch. It is very common for the men to drink beer at lunch, though most women drink very little. There is a "beer girl" (my name) whose job it is to keep the glasses at the table filled with beer and ice. She puts empty bottles back in the case and that's how the bill is determined. You don't order you own beer - its one for all - nor do you have a way to keep track of how much beer you've drunk. The "beer girl" works on commission paid by the brewery. Can you imagine how much fun the lawyers would have with that in the US?

Pho and beer - good stuff!

[J Eddington]

Wow, you make me want to be there. THink my husband will notice if I jump on the next plane so I can stand over your shoulder? Gues then I would be that wife getting the call. "Honey are you on the way home!"

[mjdmike]

Excellent series again Doug. I always enjoy your images and commentary.

Excellent!

[heiyoulianglaohu]

Originally Posted by Comanche

Okay, Marco - here's the beer!



Festival Beer is made right here in Hue - it is the "high end" local beer, made in the same brewery as Huda Beer, but more expensive. Notice the label is in English - darned if I know why.

You can't see it in the pix very well (so much for my skills, Marco), but there is ice in the glass. The Vietnamese like their beer on ice.

I shot this photo at a business lunch. It is very common for the men to drink beer at lunch, though most women drink very little. There is a "beer girl" (my name) whose job it is to keep the glasses at the table filled with beer and ice. She puts empty bottles back in the case and that's how the bill is determined. You don't order you own beer - its one for all - nor do you have a way to keep track of how much beer you've drunk. The "beer girl" works on commission paid by the brewery. Can you imagine how much fun the lawyers would have with that in the US?

Pho and beer - good stuff!

Haha.. the first thing I thought about was that it looked like the guy on the left was drinking the beer. Anyway, the shots are great and you are really good with words.
As for the English on the beer bottle, I don't really know why either but every place I've been to in Asia always have most products with English labels. I spent the winter in South Korea and everything except Soju (a native drink) was in English. They even had a shoe store called "Athlete's Foot" haha.

[MarcoFromHouston]

Beer w/ice =

Beer Girl =

[Comanche]

Originally Posted by J Eddington

Wow, you make me want to be there. THink my husband will notice if I jump on the next plane so I can stand over your shoulder? Gues then I would be that wife getting the call. "Honey are you on the way home!"

Naw - I don't think he'd notice if he got an email from you sent from the other side of the world.

Come on over with us, Janice. The invitation is open to any TPFers. I can take you places the tour busses won't take you.