Not Your Veteran's Viet Nam

[Comanche]

As both a veteran of the war in Viet Nam and a frequent traveler to that country, I often talk with other veterans as well as Vietnamese living in the US about the current state of affairs there. I'm on a short business trip in Saigon and Hue now. As I often do when here, I try to post a few photos on the TPF. (My apologies in advance for the quality - I am using my laptop and the monitor is not calibrated. However, I accept the responsibility for poorly composed shots.)

Veterans can count – they know the last American troops left in March 1973 (over 35 years ago) and the war itself ended in 1975. What they don’t know is what the country is like today.

Most of them probably know Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City – but don’t know it is called both names with regularity. The police won’t come knocking if you call it Saigon rather than HCMC. Most know the country is ruled by the Communist Party, but don’t know today’s Viet Nam is wildly entrepreneurial and capitalistic. Most know there must be automobiles in Viet Nam by now, but don’t know that Toyota, Ford, and Honda all have manufacturing facilities in Viet Nam.

The automobile is now common throughout the country. In Saigon, there are a lot of very wealthy Vietnamese, such as this gentleman getting into his BMW. This is one of the main streets in downtown Saigon – notice the area is well tended. Street cleaners are at work most of the day, not just at night.




Of course, if you have money, you must show it off with the things you can buy. Some veterans will remember the infamous Tu Do Street, home to cheap bars and other (ahem) “institutions. “ Today it is called Dong Khoi Street, and this is where you can do a little shopping at Gucci.




If you don’t find what you want, the Louis Vuitton store might have it. The Mercedes in this photo had just pulled away from the Calvin Klein store I was standing in front of.




If all that shopping wears you out, you can stop for a quiet bite to eat at the Caravelle Hotel. The tourist walking by is looking at two Vietnamese women – and these women are not tourists. I doubt if I could afford a cup of coffee in there, though the bar on the top floor offers a great view of the city.



Walking a few blocks down Dong Khoi brings you to the dock area on the Saigon River. Did I say cruise ships? They are no longer unusual in Saigon, Danang, or Haiphong.



Viet Nam’s tourism industry is booming, helped along by the fact that it is a close “exotic” place for Australians and a warm place in the winter for Europeans. With virtually no violent crime, and little property crime (the occasional pickpocket is about as bad as it gets), it is a safe and secure destination. When my wife and I first came back to Viet Nam in 2002, Saigon was cheap – but no longer. The rest of Viet Nam is still reasonable, but not the two big cities.

I usually stay at the Rex Hotel when I'm in Saigon. It was where many senior American Army officers were billeted during the war. Today, its a five star hotel right downtown - and not an Army officer in sight.



I don’t want anyone to think Viet Nam has no problems, or that all Vietnamese drive expensive imported automobiles. Furthermore, I know Saigon is not the “real Viet Nam.” 80% of Viet Nam's population of 83 million still live in the countryside, not in Hanoi or Saigon.

But, it’s not the veteran’s Viet Nam either.

[Patti Edens]

Doug, Thanks for the info. After having seen your flooded street shots in Hue and the drinking water story, it is nice to see a balance with the Gucci and Louis Vuitton view.

[Comanche]

Originally Posted by Patti Edens

Doug, Thanks for the info. After having seen your flooded street shots in Hue and the drinking water story, it is nice to see a balance with the Gucci and Louis Vuitton view.

And thanx for remembering, Patti. Its hard to shoot photo essays that show an entire country - there is simply too much to cover.

One of my former students is coming to the US for graduate school. While talking to her today, I realize how little she really knows about America despite all she has read and seen on TV. So - - thanx for letting me know I'm balanced.

(Well, I'm unbalanced mentally, but you know what I mean! )

[KeithM]

This is definitely not the Saigon I remember from 1968. Thanks for sharing.

[semperaggie]

Very cool as usual

[idnurse41]

I always enjoy your posts with such great historical and current information and fantastic pictures for those of us who can't be there! Keep them coming!

[adirty1]

Nothing about the new Ho Chi Minh trail.
that was a great article in the Smithsonian about building a new high way to connect north and south.

[Al Buckner]

Doug, thanks for showing the rest of Viet Nam. It appears they have done an excellant job, at least in the city, or urban renewal. Your photos and stories really keep my interest and maybe someday I might like to go for vacation.

Great job as usual.

[dbphotos]

Doug,

Great narrative and photos. It's really interesting to get an in depth perspective of places I haven't been but want to go to.

Thanks for sharing.

[Comanche]

Originally Posted by adirty1

Nothing about the new Ho Chi Minh trail.
that was a great article in the Smithsonian about building a new high way to connect north and south.

Very true - building a new highway through mountainous areas was (is?) a huge financial gamble by the government. The idea is to open up the interior for development, and so far it seems to be working.

Of course, the new Ho Chi Minh Trail has nothing to do with the original, mainly because large portions of the old trail were in Laos and Cambodia. I have an idea they gave it the name HCM Trail more as an honor than to revive the idea of the old wartime trail. HCM Trail was the name we Americans gave it, not the Vietnamese.

Thanx to all of you for your kudos. I spent the morning in the deep countryside with my Vietnamese photographer friend, Mr. Cu, and two American tourists. I'll put something together in the next few days.

Also, rather than a vacation, wouldn't you rather do a photo tour? Do the non-tourist stuff, but stay at nice hotels.

[DavidsStudio]

Originally Posted by Comanche

Also, rather than a vacation, wouldn't you rather do a photo tour? Do the non-tourist stuff, but stay at nice hotels.

I love to do the non-tourist stuff. I avoid the nice hotels though ... too many tourists. :)

David

[lhdvies]

Great work again Doug! Man I would really like to get over there and have not discounted the possibility (although still a dream)

[Comanche]

Originally Posted by DavidsStudio

I love to do the non-tourist stuff. I avoid the nice hotels though ... too many tourists. :)

David
Attachment 80193

Whoa! Great shot! Bangkok?

[DavidsStudio]

Originally Posted by Comanche

Whoa! Great shot! Bangkok?

Hi Doug and thanks for the kind words.

Yes, it is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok. Was just in Asia for about 5 weeks and returned about 8 weeks ago. Spent a week in Bangkok, 2 weeks in Bhutan (you can still get there before the first Starbucks arrives), and 9 days in Tokyo. I love Asia generally.

David

[ThiNguyen]

Just got back from VN. I shot 3000 images. I will post a few here later after I have things sorted out.

Thi