Lr 3 & gradient filters

[venchka]

How do you delete a gradient filter in Lr 3.x? Soon to be Lr 3.4 by the way.
I figured out how to disappear all of the gradient filters with the reset button. How do you delete/remove just one?
Very perplexing.

Second problem: I applied a very narrow (about 1/2"-3/4" wide) gradient in the upper 1/3 of a 1:3 pano last night. Placed from bottom to top because that is how I wanted the effect (burn) to work. Guess what? The burn (-.5 exposure & -20 brightness) was applied over the whole image. I had to kill it and place another one from the top down. It was close to what I wanted, but not exactly what I wanted. What's up with that?

Finally: How come my images don't match between the Lightroom 3.x Develop module & Print module? Maybe it's the file I'm trying to print. The image is interesting and printing it is a challenge. But I can see a definite difference. Example: White sky across the upper inch or so in Develop. Which is what I want. In the Print module the white is not white. The area is darker and has color. Go ahead, tell me to calibrate my monitor.

[crazyfoo]

I can only answer number one - to delete a gradient filter you can select the grey dot that represents the filter, and hit delete on your keyboard. if the dot does not show up, look at your options just below the picture (while in the gradient tool) and select an option that will show the dot.

[venchka]

Smacks his head hard! DUH! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks Justin.

[picman]

While not the direct answer, this may provide a strong clue. You ar looking for "RGB Previews" page 572

The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2 Book ... - Google Books

[venchka]

Thanks Brian. The Libary & Develop views do match. It is the Print view that is darker. A 1/4 to 1/2 stop darker. For one particular photo that is mosly all dark. That may have more to do with the difference than anything else. The photo is a bear to print the way I want it to look on the wall. I'm after the bare minimum definition in the shadow areas. Unfortunately, about 3/4 of the image is shadows.

[picman]

Hadn't had time to try yet, but here are a few bits about a plug-in for Lightroom for softproofing

Mini review: Lightroom SoftProof plug-in :: Wetpixel.com
Did You Know Lightroom Can Soft-Proof? - Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Killer Tips | Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Killer Tips
Soft Proofing in Lightroom Now Available | Nat Coalson's Photography Blog

[venchka]

Thanks. My eyeballs have adjusted. Also, the difference seems to be related to just the one file that has been driving me crazy for about a month. I finally got the thing printed "close enough" and stopped worrying about it. Hopefully my OCD will stay in remission.

I haven't been doing this very long, but this author hits the nail straight on the head:

Now, I know this will probably start a religious battle, but personally the soft proofing feature does nothing “for me” (key words here: “for me”). I guess I’m curious about how much of an impact it’ll make for you. I’m a pretty firm believer in a “hard proof” (AKA: doing a test print). I don’t use the soft proofing feature in Photoshop when I print and I probably won’t use a soft proofing feature in Lightroom either. I get to talk to a lot of people at seminars throughout the year, and I really try to listen to their problems when it comes to printing. The main issues that I hear when it comes to printing revolve around a) the prints being too dark and, b) not being able to proof your output sharpening. Well, soft proofing doesn’t really solve either of these. But you know what does? A test print

As for Gamut & Dmax? Might as well be Greek to me. Actually, I could probably meake better headway understanding Greek. For me, I trust my calibrated eyeballs. If a print looks good to me, I deem it "plenty good enough." Plenty good works for me.