What Post Processing do you do on all images?

[my3peas]

Originally Posted by engstrom

I pretty much do what Duffy said but I also occasionaly add local contrast enhancement to my workflow - USM at 10/20/0.

I've just learned about LCE in the last few weeks. You said you occasionally use it. Can you tell me in what instances you would or wouldn't ? I'm finding that it really makes a difference and have been using it quite a bit. But where wouldn't one use it?

Thanks! :)

[LadyShutterBug]

first i get rid of anythign i don't want... duplicates and "oops" shots. then everything gets renamed. then, i follow this post-process ritual:

1. open image
2a. look fab? if yes, close image or make more fab. if no or maybe, see 2b.
2b. do whatever i need to do to make the image fab, or more fab than it already is.
3. save image.

my clients don't get anythign that is "unedited". zits, sweat stains, bras sticking out of wedding gowns., boogers in kids' noses... those all disappear before they ever see them.

[David Whatley]

So on average how much time does everyone spend on an image? I started doing some PP work last night and see that it takes 4-5 miinutes an image, time it loads, I adjust erverything, and then save. Thats a bit of time on 100 shots

[LadyShutterBug]

i open about 10-15 shots at a time in PS. they might take a bit to open, but then you've got a bunch open and it saves a little time.

i check email, go get a snack, play with the dog, etc. while they are loading. i like to multitask,i can't edit all day long and do nothign else! 4-5 minutes seems like a long time per image. maybe you'll get quicker?

[DigiSLR]

I don't PP every image. I sort and flag the shoot from Lightroom, synch the Whitebalance on all the photos, and then selectively PP the keepers. I hope I'm not the only one that gets shots that aren't high quality keepers. Those I usually don't both with.

[David Whatley]

Kasey, I am using Paint Shop Pro X and last night I did my first 15 images, "ever" so as soon as I can remember which tools do what, and learn layers a little more, I am sure I will get faster. But I'm to old to ever be "fast"

[engstrom]

Originally Posted by my3peas

I've just learned about LCE in the last few weeks. You said you occasionally use it. Can you tell me in what instances you would or wouldn't ? I'm finding that it really makes a difference and have been using it quite a bit. But where wouldn't one use it?

Thanks! :)

Christie, I used to use it almost all the time as well. I can't really tell you what changed, but I do know that sometimes the shot has enough contrast as it. If I'm able to control the light via strobes/reflectors/etc. I've found that I can often reduce the need for LCE. When I do use it I've also found I use less of it than before. I used to use radius 50, amount 15-20%, threshold 0. Now I'm finding radius 20, amount 10%, threshold 0 is my most common setting.

[Ninjatune™]

75-80% of my processing is as follows. I'm a complete technical freak. Most of my work today demands a believable edit that is technically sound, if not superior. That, to me, is everything...that's where it all starts.. Your shots might suck, but if they're technically impeccable every single time, people will notice and respect it. Now that you're technical, you have to become consistent. Demand that technical perfection from yourself on every file. It'll make you a better photographer/processor. And again, I can't say it enough, a clean, technically sound file will go a looong way. Show me a successful photographer and i'll show you a technical nut. Before anything, you must first master the technical side in order to understand what's going on and why. Just like if you never learned how to really use your camera. You can't do anything with it because you don't understand it. Same thing with a photo. If I could give one piece of advice, that would be it. Above all else, learn and become a technical photographer.. the rest will follow.

I typically go for a very shadowy, contrast’ie look-- Now you know what I'm going for.



In CS2:

Starting with the RAW file--

The very first thing I see is exposure, which 9 times outta 10 will be way too hot for my taste, thanks to Adobe's auto-adj setting. I choose to keep my workflow default set to auto-adjust for a few reasons. Adobe's auto-adjustments will always give you a strong starting point. I also enjoy being able to see what Adobe thinks is best for the file.

First thing, I'll usually knock the exposure down a few points. I like to leave the RAW portion of the workflow with a slightly dim file...just a hair under.

After I find my desired exposure, I jump over to 'Curve' and select 'Strong Contrast' This gives the file a nice solid kick. You may need to pull a hair of contrast back out afterwards.. on average, a few points worth works for me. Or, sometimes the file might need a little more - I might bump the shadows up now... just a tad.

Okay, I like my exposure and contrast. Now I can correct my color. This just takes practice. That's all I can tell you.

So, I have a nicely exposed, contrast’ie, color corrected canvas. Now, the next step is purely flare...totally not necessary. It’s become somewhat signature for me... it can really add to your frame in most cases.... Under the “Lens” tab… Throw a vignette on a shot with sky, or a frame that might lack something...direction for example... a nice dark vignette will help draw focus to your subject - it also makes for a much more dramatic frame. Know this won't always work. It has to be the right frame.

Now we have an excellent base to work off of in the second process.

Save your file as a PSD or a TIF. Anything but a JPG. An early mentor referred to them as the "bastard whipping children" of photography.. A little extreme, but that's kind of the way you need to approach it anyway. Its best to maintain any format but jpg during the editing process. I always save as PSDs when converting RAW files.



2nd Process

Open newly saved PSD.
Select your magic wand tool / Select All
Drag the highlight box until you reach mid screen, where you can feel the line drag, or catch for a fraction of a second... Just drag that box over center frame very slowly and watch.. you see the line lock into place for a split sec. that is your center line. (Or you can just use the rulers)

A) A crooked frame is my one serious pet peeve B) A perfectly straight frame is required when correcting for perspective later.

Determine if the frame needs to be rotated CW or CCW, then make you're educated guess as to how much it might need. Lets say we need 0.75 worth, CCW... Okay continue until a straight frame is achieved.

This is where I would normally correct for perspective, but I'm not sure if anyone would use it very often. Either way, if you don't know what I'm talking about right now, learn. Learn why there are converging lines, why we correct them and then we'll learn how. *Yet another technical aspect of a photograph*. Any architecture shooters here must learn this. If you ever want someone in the arch/foto industry to take you seriously, its an absolute must.. rule number 1 type stuff. I'll be more than happy to walk anyone thru it another time.

Now our frame is straight and cropped clean.

Filters / Unsharp Mask / 150 – 1.4, depending on what camera and lens +/-
This’ll clear things up nicely… Again, technical… a strong, sharp frame stands out.

D-SLR users, this is where I blow the file up to 100% and check for dust. Healing brush knocks them right out.

Resize to desired res.

My final step:

Image > Adjustments > Levels

Try not to ever use the contrast/brightness selection. This is all you’ll ever need. Master levels…. Levels and the curve tool…

Fin…




Disclaimer: Everyone does their own thing in PS. There are various ways to accomplish a single task in PS. Some better than others. It boils down to quality, control and fine tuning abilities.. But there is a right way, and a wrong way. And I hate to say that because it doesn’t pertain to every tool, but that’s what I was taught…

[my3peas]

Originally Posted by engstrom

Christie, I used to use it almost all the time as well. I can't really tell you what changed, but I do know that sometimes the shot has enough contrast as it. If I'm able to control the light via strobes/reflectors/etc. I've found that I can often reduce the need for LCE. When I do use it I've also found I use less of it than before. I used to use radius 50, amount 15-20%, threshold 0. Now I'm finding radius 20, amount 10%, threshold 0 is my most common setting.

Thanks John. I was using it with the radius at 50 also, but am taking a liking to the radius set at 20 since you've mentioned it :) Thanks!