This book has boosted my confidence

[JohnT]

I recently finished reading Image Sharpening with Adobe Photoshop CS2: Industrial Strength Production Techniques by the late Bruce Fraser (thanks, John Stovall, for the recommendation!). I also just finished running an image through his suggested Action-based workflow for optimal sharpening results. Comparing it to my usual single-pass USM or SS, the multi-pass image rocks. This is viewing only on screen as I haven't yet printed it due to my printer having not yet arrived. I will say, however, that this book has taken the mystery out of image sharpening and has boosted my confidence regarding the end quality of my work.

Get it. Read it. You won't regret it. :-)

[johnastovall]

Originally Posted by JohnT

I recently finished reading Image Sharpening with Adobe Photoshop CS2: Industrial Strength Production Techniques by the late Bruce Fraser (thanks, John Stovall, for the recommendation!). I also just finished running an image through his suggested Action-based workflow for optimal sharpening results. Comparing it to my usual single-pass USM or SS, the multi-pass image rocks. This is viewing only on screen as I haven't yet printed it due to my printer having not yet arrived. I will say, however, that this book has taken the mystery out of image sharpening and has boosted my confidence regarding the end quality of my work.

Get it. Read it. You won't regret it. :-)

Now you'll want to check out PixelGenius's Photokit Sharpener as it's based on the book and saves much time...

[JohnT]

It says it's for up to CS2, but I'm assuming it will run on CS3 just as well?

Edit: Disregard. I'll try it anyway.

[DoctorWu]

Originally Posted by JohnT

I recently finished reading Image Sharpening with Adobe Photoshop CS2: Industrial Strength Production Techniques by the late Bruce Fraser (thanks, John Stovall, for the recommendation!). I also just finished running an image through his suggested Action-based workflow for optimal sharpening results. Comparing it to my usual single-pass USM or SS, the multi-pass image rocks. This is viewing only on screen as I haven't yet printed it due to my printer having not yet arrived. I will say, however, that this book has taken the mystery out of image sharpening and has boosted my confidence regarding the end quality of my work.

Get it. Read it. You won't regret it. :-)

Can you post some before and after images?

[billbunton]

Works fine on CS3. Does a great job, and it's much faster than doing it "by the book". Of course, the book helps a lot understanding what it's doing.

[johnastovall]

Originally Posted by JohnT

It says it's for up to CS2, but I'm assuming it will run on CS3 just as well?

Edit: Disregard. I'll try it anyway.

Works just fine in CS3 just moved mine over when I up graded.

[johnastovall]

Originally Posted by DoctorWu

Can you post some before and after images?

An image sharpened for printing is not the same as an image sharpened for a monitor.

The final pass is directed at the charactristics of the output device.

[jeffkohn]

I found the book very informative, but didn't always agree 100% with his conclusions. In some of the before/after examples in the book, I actually thought the "after" versions were over-sharpened.

While I do agree with the concept of "capture" sharpening and use it myself, I don't agree with the way it's implemented in Photokit Sharpener (and the book as well, if memory serves). IMHO an edge mask should not be used for capture sharpening, because the anti-aliasing filter and bayer demosaicing process soften all detail in an image, not just the edges. In fact I would argue that the AA filter does more damage to really fine details than it does edges.

So, for capture sharpening on my landscape images I use low-radius, high-amount USM on the luminosity channel. Assuming no sharpening at all in the raw convertor, my sharpening routine for clean D2x files is to use radius = 0.3, amount = 300-400, and threshold = 0. I also do my sharpening on a duplicate layer so that if I feel the need I can mask out smooth areas such as the sky (although on a properly exposed ISO 100 image this usually isn't necessary).

The only time I might want to use an edge mask is for headshots of people (where you really don't want to sharpen the skin at all), and also high-ISO images where sharpening fine details would also mean sharpening noise. When I need to do edge sharpening, I use Photowiz FocalBlade, which gives you a lot of control over both the sharpening parameters and the edge mask.

[JohnT]

Originally Posted by jeffkohn

I found the book very informative, but didn't always agree 100% with his conclusions.

Well, at least he admitted that he didn't have all the answers (which is more than a lot of authors do) and that some folks might find a sharpening routine that works best for them and their images. That is what it sounds like you have done. For someone such as myself, who has struggled with understanding sharpening and getting it to where it looks good, this book has absolutely been a Godsend. Of course, I'm ignorant about more than I'm knowledgeable about so that's how I normally approach books like this. LOL :-)

[jeffkohn]

Agreed. I'm not (sorry for the misleading typo) questioning the value of the book. Sharpening is very subjective, but to make up your own mind it's definitely valuable to understand how exactly sharpening works and what the available methods are.

[jagphoto]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[JohnT]

Originally Posted by johnastovall

Now you'll want to check out PixelGenius's Photokit Sharpener as it's based on the book and saves much time...

Thanks for another great suggestion, John. I've been using the trial version and will be purchasing at the end of the period. Very much a time saver, but still leaves some control in the hands of the user. Good stuff.