I need help with film processing

[Dobick]

Any one with experience would be greatly appreciated.

I thought that I had ilford 400 loaded, and it turns out that it was TMax 100, so I need to push 2 stops in developing.

I have only done 4 rolls, and did them completely by the book, so I am out of my element here.

If the recommended time is 6 minutes for standard processing at 68 degrees, how long do I let it sit in the soup for a 2 stop push.

I have found conflicting advice online.

One place said 1 minute extra for each stop. Another said a multiple of 1.33 (if I read correctly) Another said x2.25? I found yet another at 11.5 minutes total.

The chemistry is hc-110 (dil b)

The pictures are nothing special, and I was basically just playing around, but now I would like to know what the rules are.

Thank you greatly for looking.

I also understand that this combo is not the greatest for what I am wanting to do, but at this point I am going to go with what I have.

[Big Dog]

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

[Dobick]

Thank you so much for this!

I ended up doing the 11.5 last night (probably ended up being closer to 12 by the time I got the chemicals off of it, but I think it turned out ok

What do you think?

[adirty1]

you might have wanted to go just a little less time to help with shadow details... Again it really depends on what you shot how much contrast there was in the subject matter all that goes to how much time you would need. I wish I would have seen your message the other night I could have looked that up in my notes and given you a pretty good idea how long to develop your film. seems that you have usable images so all worked out.

[CobyPhoto]

Not too bad for HC-110! I prefer T-MAX developer for pushing my film. I didn't see this or I would have provided you with some times and temps for pushing. At 68 Degrees, with T-Max Developer, it is about 2 minutes per stop you are pushing. Pushing more than a couple of stops, you really need to be careful of the temp, too as it tends to warm and then you can easily over develop. Plus T-Max Developer is easy to mix and a liquid just like HC-110 so you only have to mix wqhat you need.

Are you printing your B & W "old fashioned" or just scanning and digitally printing? Kodak has stopped producing Dektol now, so your options are becoming less and less. (Paper is the hard item to find now.) I am having a hard time finding some of my fav papers for Optical B & W printing.

I have just restorted to scanning and digitally printing them on fine art papers. Takes some tweaking, but I have been getting some great resultsw.

CJ

[Dobick]

Originally Posted by CobyPhoto

Not too bad for HC-110! I prefer T-MAX developer for pushing my film. I didn't see this or I would have provided you with some times and temps for pushing. At 68 Degrees, with T-Max Developer, it is about 2 minutes per stop you are pushing. Pushing more than a couple of stops, you really need to be careful of the temp, too as it tends to warm and then you can easily over develop. Plus T-Max Developer is easy to mix and a liquid just like HC-110 so you only have to mix wqhat you need.

Are you printing your B & W "old fashioned" or just scanning and digitally printing? Kodak has stopped producing Dektol now, so your options are becoming less and less. (Paper is the hard item to find now.) I am having a hard time finding some of my fav papers for Optical B & W printing.

I have just restorted to scanning and digitally printing them on fine art papers. Takes some tweaking, but I have been getting some great resultsw.

CJ

So far I am just scanning -- as I alluded to in my original post -- I am a total newb when it comes to film in general, and even more so with developing my own. Once I get to a point to where I am more consistently controlling the development process, as well as finding the combinations I like (film and developers) I plan to at some point get into printing my own as well, but that will be a while away. Right now I am just tinkering with a pretty cool hobby.

[Bruce M. Morris]

Kent,
I got here a little late, but with TMax film, using TMax developer is great. First the preferred temp is 75F so it is closer to a room temp than 68. plus 2 stops in TMax is not a major problem at all.. I did 400 at 1600 regularly in the Navy, just for the effect and natural light issues onboard ship.

[adirty1]

that's true that it's closer and easier at 75f but, your shadows get better development at a cooler degrees. I am more a Rodinal fan... again it all depends on what the subject is and lighting conditions.

[Dobick]

Thanks for the input guys -- The local shop has tmax developer available, so I will probably use that from here on out.

Follow up question:

What is your preferred chemistry and film combination and why?

[CobyPhoto]

Originally Posted by adirty1

that's true that it's closer and easier at 75f but, your shadows get better development at a cooler degrees. I am more a Rodinal fan... again it all depends on what the subject is and lighting conditions.

Dirty,

You are absolutely correct and that is my reasoning for the cooler (alibeit more difficult) processing temp. I occasionally use the warmer temps when I am in a hurry, (and the work isn't as critical) but when it has to be right, I always go for the cooler temps and use a water bath to keep the temp where I want it.

Rodinal is a great developer as well. I wonder how long it is going to be available thou. I have sorta switched to the T-Max Developer (and I like it) since it is more readily available as processing supplies and chemicals are fazed out.

Dobick,

I have a rather large supply of D-19 Developer if you would like to try it. Just pay for shipping to your door! (Dirty, you can have some too! ) D-19 is for High contrast, ariel type photography. It has its uses, thou is fast becoming obsolete.

I prefer the T-Max, Rodinal or Ilford.

CJ

[adirty1]

they just started making rodinal again a couple years ago.
I am also a huge fan of d76 replenished. I really need to stock up on d76.


I never worried about controlling the temp that much with b/w. I chilled my steel before I started which would hold the temp with in a few degrees of 68f.

Now color on the other hand. I always used a water bath for all the chemistry.

[Big Dog]

Originally Posted by CobyPhoto

Are you printing your B & W "old fashioned" or just scanning and digitally printing? Kodak has stopped producing Dektol now, so your options are becoming less and less. (Paper is the hard item to find now.) I am having a hard time finding some of my fav papers for Optical B & W printing.

Dektol is still around. Kodak stopped producing B&W paper, but did not (repeat: did NOT) ever stop making B&W chemistry. They also still make color materials (including paper) and all kinds of film.

It is harder to buy analog materials at local stores, but it is readily available mail-order and/or on-line. Things are not that bleak. There are other papers besides the ones Kodak made. If one wants to scan negatives and print them digitally, that's a valid choice, but it should not be made because analog materials aren't available, they are.

[CobyPhoto]

Originally Posted by Big Dog

Dektol is still around. Kodak stopped producing B&W paper, but did not (repeat: did NOT) ever stop making B&W chemistry. They also still make color materials (including paper) and all kinds of film.

It is harder to buy analog materials at local stores, but it is readily available mail-order and/or on-line. Things are not that bleak. There are other papers besides the ones Kodak made. If one wants to scan negatives and print them digitally, that's a valid choice, but it should not be made because analog materials aren't available, they are.

Thanks David!

I just called my contact at Kodak and you are absolutely correct! Next time I talk to my supplier in town I am gonna beat some knee caps cause I bought extra Dektol this last time!

Maybe he was just looking to boost his sales! LMAO

I don't know where he got his info, but Kodak in Rochester says Dektol is still on the production list and will be available!

I stand corrected.

CJ

[adirty1]

there are some old papers that kodak made that I would love to see another company pick up. The one paper I would love to have back was a paper we used for heavy oils. It was great. No other paper would tone like this. I just cant remember the name. I want to say the name had ART in it. Dah freaking allergies and meds make be dumb.